In a culinary landscape that increasingly demands a balance between technical precision and immediate pleasure, the dining experience at Coltivare in La Morra is evolving into a fully realized concept, where Piedmontese ingredients meet contemporary influences and an aesthetic precision that is constantly being refined.
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We’ve already introduced you to Coltivare and shared its story, a restaurant born from the Bagnasco family’sB desire to expand the winemaking operations of the adjacent Azienda Agricola Brandini, led by Serena and Giovanna. In the kitchen, leading the team is Luca Zecchin, who has many years of experience in the area, alongside his young sous chef, Federico Rolla. In the dining room, Jacopo Cren leads a close-knit team. The menu features an à la carte selection and two tasting menus, allowing guests to choose between a plant-based course and a more comprehensive one. In all dishes, the technique is evident but does not overpower the flavor, which in some courses offers an interesting complexity and in others the perfect level of indulgence.
The curtain rises with a series of amuse-bouches designed to awaken the palate with savory notes and acidity and whet the appetite with delicious bites. The Maccagno fritter, enriched with mayonnaise, mustard, and honey, is a bite of pure comfort. Next comes a bolder offering: shallot skin with hummus and charred lemon, citrusy and slightly smoky. The meal continues with the elegance of the Gorgonzola “lollipop,” where pear glaze and radicchio jam balance the intensity of the blue cheese, and concludes with the crunch of the corn taco with anchovies in a green sauce, a playful and indulgent homage to tradition that relies entirely on its salty kick.
The Region on Your Plate
The connection to the region shines through in the Tonnato, a medium-rare round steak served with a light sauce made from tuna, soy milk, and a drizzle of roast gravy. The decision to serve it as a two-course meal—accompanied by a pâté—transforms a Piedmontese staple into a contemporary culinary experience. Equally essential and 100% Piedmontese is the Plin, the three-meat agnolotto that strictly adheres to tradition, presenting itself with impeccable aesthetic refinement and uncompromising deliciousness.
Vegetable Dishes
It is in the preparation of plant-based ingredients that Coltivare’s cuisine truly shines, handling complex ingredients with a sure hand. The “Cacio e Ovo” Artichoke, steamed and served with a sauce made from smoked egg yolk and Piedmontese pecorino, is a well-balanced dish that highlights the stem and heart of the ingredient.
The Carrot, now a signature dish of the restaurant, cooked in hay and served with a carrot and Val Maggia pepper BBQ, reveals a masterful balance between sweetness and acidity. The Fennel Heart, prepared with its own extract and citrus fruits, is surprising, releasing unexpected notes of licorice and toasted flavors that make it almost a pre-dessert of contemporary cuisine. Visually striking is the Ris e coi, a Carnaroli rice cooked in roasted cabbage stock: the rice is cooked to perfection, and the flavor is characterized by the various nuances of the cabbage. The plating of the rice at the table is a fun touch—a risk in terms of cooking control but one that is well managed by both the kitchen and the dining room.
Main courses
Dishes featuring animal proteins also demonstrate strong technical skill. Smoked sweetbread, glazed with garum and served with quince and mustard compote, is an elegant dish with a pronounced umami kick, where balance is its greatest strength. The highlight is the Fassona beef, marinated in rice koji and aromatic hay. The meat selected is a classic cut from Piedmontese cuisine (the shoulder blade), typically used for braising and characterized by a central vein. In this case, the vein is removed, and the protein is enhanced by a precise sauce and beets, which add a spicy note necessary to balance the base.
The dessert
The dessert selection blends contemporary and classic styles. The pear with Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower seed praline, offers a refreshing, modern sensation while still delivering that definitive “wow factor” in flavor. Finally, the chocolate-glazed cream puff with additional hot chocolate served at the table, is the perfect indulgent finale, combining aesthetic elegance with immediate satisfaction. The true finale, however, is the dessert cart, featuring a selection of hazelnut cakes, plum cakes, gianduiotti, and other small treats perfect for ending the meal on a high note.
In summary, Coltivare has clearly embarked on a path of steady growth, where intense flavors go hand in hand with aesthetic sophistication. Although there are still a few minor details to refine, the restaurant’s identity is well-defined and compelling.
Contacts
Coltivare
Borgata Brandini, 16, 12064 La Morra CN
Phone: 0173 328231
