Alessandro Pietropaoli deserves credit for his ability to “absorb” (and reflect) the hotel’s artistic influences, while maintaining a focus on his own distinctive culinary style. From “mushroom tiramisu” to mixed seafood pasta with fermented lemon, the Hilton Eur La Lama and its The Green: the story of a project that innovates Italian-style “smart dining” in Rome’s tallest hotel.
It feels as though you’ve tasted two or three first courses in one; first, the bold, uninhibited flavor of garlic, olive oil, and chili pepper; then a full immersion in seafood pasta; and finally, the “rich body” of a carbonara. But no—no chicken eggs here, just sea urchin roe, which Chef Alessandro Pietropaoli whips until it almost reaches the velvety texture of a cream. Breakpoint: by the time you start to savor it, the splash has already filled your cheeks with a pleasantly bold flavor that seals the bite.
It could be anything from a late-night spaghetti fix to a dish to share. Except that, we’re looking at a “AOP” Tagliolino (garlic, oil, and chili pepper, to be exact) ready to hit the mark with one final, unexpected twist: buffalo ricotta. Milk on salt, a refreshed palate, and all around it, a hotel restaurant that—just a few months after its debut—is refining the concept of “smart dining,” bringing together a diverse and vast audience around the venue.
Any distinctive features? The ground-floor setting of theHilton Rome Eur La Lama, a rising star within the American group that has held the title of Rome’s tallest hotel for the past three years. So, while the chef’s technical arsenal is now a given (we saw it in his previous venture at Campocori and will explore it further below), upon entering from the outside, you sense a disconnect that’s hard to grasp at first glance—because, in fact, it goes far beyond a mere visual impression.
Rome’s tallest hotel, from the welcome to a night in a 150-square-meter presidential suite
Raising a dark crystal blade 60 meters into the sky of the “Rationalist Quarter”—and then, surprisingly, infusing it with a welcoming warmth—was a feat of rare architectural audacity. Yet, the monolith designed by Massimiliano Fuksas rose to the challenge of achieving balance. On the outside, a sculptural, skyscraper-like presence; on the inside, a understated reception area capable of softening the impact of the 16 floors above, as if to say “no, thank you” to the old-fashioned reception areas centered around desks and monitors. Thus, once check-in is complete, it feels natural to pause and photograph the work by Arnaldo Pomodoro, modeled after the Capitoline obelisks, while a mosaic depicting the Colosseum and Castel Sant’Angelo pays homage to antiquity: classic is the new modern.
In contrast, the spacious volumes gradually give way to a thoughtful intimacy, creating backdrops that allow the lounge bar The Blade to serve as a bridge between the city and hospitality. “We want travelers to immediately feel at home in an atmosphere of empathy and casual informality, despite the grandeur of the ‘blade’ from which the project takes its name”, says hotel manager Matteo Cappannari. Looking up, the intent is clear: amid luminous ochre and bronze spheres, the glints bounce from the chests of drawers down to the floor. Speaking of the floor, “Creating it required massive effort: there’s a herringbone inlay of six precious marbles ranging from Statuario to Nero Marquinia.” And don’t expect the usual cocktail bar bottle rack: art takes center stage behind the bar, with a gold-toned installation that amplifies the sparkle of the drinks being prepared.
Added to this is the “feline grace” of a team that knows when to be present and when, instead, to blend into the background: “Sometimes we serve an aperitif on the terrace to a Roman looking for a different kind of evening, welcome a business group into the conference room, or pamper Hilton’s most loyal guests in a dedicated VIP lounge. We have to be ready for a true ‘intuitive slalom’ to anticipate everyone’s desires and needs. So, first and foremost, we focus mentally on training our young staff and honing their service instincts. No one should leave without feeling that they’ve been surrounded by attention worthy of their stay.”
Conversely, within the suites, discretion becomes a passport to comfort, and versatility an essential asset that allows the various spaces to “change their look,” reshaping the design lines. This is also evident in the Presidential Suite, which features completely private access to a mini-spa for body treatments and a 24-hour gym. In total, the suite spans 150 square meters across two levels, featuring an original console table and a round table attributed to Ico and Luisa Parisi, both dating back to 1950: staying here literally means immersing yourself in a timeless scene that blends Art Deco with contemporary craftsmanship (thanks to the work of the Lorenzo Bellini Atelier).
Alessandro Pietropaoli’s The Green: Beyond Hotel Cuisine
Alessandro deserves credit for somehow being able to “absorb” (and convey) the hotel’s artistic impulses, while maintaining a focus on his own personal style of cooking. This is a skill we’ve observed in other settings, and one that stands out today in a context where it’s objectively difficult to satisfy the diverse and ever-changing needs of an international clientele. The result is that at The Green, the menu brings together the extremes of unexpected ingredients, connecting identity and surprise (just think of the Sacher cake with apricot syrup and whipped cream or the roasted “vegetable” gnocchi with the trio of celeriac, parsnip, and Jerusalem artichoke).
While the Tagliolini AOP (a signature dish that has evolved over the years) remains a staple, we particularly appreciated the “makeover” of the stuffed zucchini flowers, paired by F&B manager Francesco D’Agostino with a Soave Classico DOC Tremenalto by Gerardo Cesari. The filling features lemon-scented sheep’s milk ricotta, Parmigiano, basil, and baby zucchini marinated to provide a nice tangy contrast: just one forkful, and the umami of the cheese is accentuated by the garnish of cooked tomatoes reduced to a cream. On the side, an XS-sized maritozzo lets you mop up the sauce properly (after all, it’s the guilty pleasure we deserve after our trip!).
Among the standout creations of recent months, the “Cardoncello like a tiramisu” deserves a mention of its own: the mushroom, infused in miso, is then seared over hot coals and enlivened by a savory tiramisu (also made with mushrooms) for a “soft landing” in the undergrowth. Beneath it, a hazelnut crumble adds a crunchy texture to every spoonful.
As fall approaches, the Omaggio ad Anzio will return to the menu; as Alessandro explains, “it’s our way of making the presentation of the classic Roman coast seafood soup ‘interactive.’ It starts with a platter of raw fish served right in front of the customer; in the center, mixed pasta cooked in the heads of ‘poor man’s’ fish and finished risotto-style at the table.” As for the aromas, most of the preparations are made in-house: this is evident in the fermented lemons added during the creaming process, while “the finishing touch comes from a tomato reduction, which is replaced with our homemade preserves when tomatoes are out of season.” The second sauce? “A stock made from cuttlefish, including its ink. Essentially, we treat it just like meat.” And on top, the burnt lime powder adds a distinct aroma, creating an unexpected Mediterranean finale. “We’ll continue to serve Italian-style cuisine—delicious and straightforward,” the chef notes. “It’s the approach that allows us to highlight the expressiveness of the ingredients, while at the same time ensuring our guests are satisfied.”
The Blade: Italian-style tapas 15 stories up in the Roman skyline
At the Hilton Eur La Lama, the gourmet experience isn’t limited to The Green, since the fifteenth floor is home to a very unique pop-up bar: the sister venue of The Blade (remember? The indoor venue brings together cocktail enthusiasts on the ground floor), designed to transform the happy hour ritual into a vertical journey through local tapas. At the very top of “La Lama,” the atmosphere takes on a distinctly New York vibe, infusing metropolitan elegance with the hues of a summer sky.
As soon as you walk in, the first thing that catches your eye is the monumental 14-meter-long counter made of natural Emperador marble, around which DJ sets, guitar, saxophone, or violin performances take turns livening up the evening throughout the week. For its part, Alessandro Pietropaoli’s Aperitivo Terrace opens with the pleasant savory flavor of a stuffed pretzel: to cut through the softness of the dough, the kitchen team adds meat from the Abruzzo-based Marini butcher shop, sheep’s-milk Grana cheese, and the woodsy aroma of freshly shaved truffle (also from Abruzzo): what a way to bring two regions together in one! Hot on its heels is the lobster cream puff, a golden miniature of choux pastry that gently extends the roundness of the lobster—at least until the “punch” of sweet-and-sour onion arrives, capable of thoroughly cleansing the palate in preparation for the next bite. In the cuttlefish ink cone, a crumbly wafer enhances the meaty texture of the weever fish, with the saor-style mustard tamed by the gentle touch of crème fraîche.
To round out the snack tour, the Spicy Skyline cocktail, in which the vibrant hues of purple cabbage liqueur intertwine with the smoky, spicy kick of chipotle: a sip that reveals the same energy as the fiery sunset over the rooftops of Rome.
Contact Information
Hilton Rome Eur La Lama
Viale Europa, 287, 00144 Rome, RM
Phone: 06 452409
The Green
