Market-inspired cuisine in the heart of Sassari: Osteria De’ Mercati showcases the flavors of the sea and northwestern Sardinia
The Sassari area is a limestone region mostly planted with olive groves and vineyards, just a stone’s throw from Romangia, the small historic region overlooking the Gulf of Asinara, which has been dedicated to viticulture for millennia. Here, time is divided between historic traditions—such as the Cavalcata Sarda or the Faradda dei Candelieri—and the deep-rooted simplicity of traditional cuisine. It is within this interweaving of folk festivals and everyday life, amidst the narrow streets of central Sassari, that Osteria De’ Mercati opens its doors to guests: a “young” establishment, born from a dream and a partnership, carried forward with courage and passion by Federica Ghiani and her staff. To truly describe the cuisine of Osteria De’ Mercati, we must take a step back and return to the project’s origins. It all began with an idea from Federica—an urban architect and sommelier—to open a restaurant with just ten seats, designed to offer a respite from the daily hustle and bustle: a place to take time for oneself and enjoy an authentic experience—that added value that makes you grow fond of the places you choose to return to.
A CONTEMPORARY CUISINE CONCEPT RECOGNIZED BY THE MICHELIN GUIDE
Osteria De’ Mercati presents itself as an intimate and refined venue, designed around a color scheme in which green takes center stage. The color harmony of the spaces is enhanced by the presence of plants, which are not merely decorative elements but an integral part of the atmosphere: a connection to nature that enriches the dining experience even in the heart of the city. It was founded in 2021 by Federica and her husband Pietro Satta, who chose to open during the challenging post-COVID period, right in the historic center of a city steeped in folklore and unaccustomed to a cuisine that speaks the uncompromising language of the sea and seeks to express itself through new concepts. The restaurant’s logo features Pietro’s family coat of arms, a symbol that evokes his roots and family tree; the name Mercati is not only linked to the restaurant’s location on Via Mercato but also to the historical significance of this street, which in the past served as the link between Sassari’s markets.
This choice reflects the restaurant’s philosophy: market-driven cuisine, centered on highlighting fresh, seasonal, and high-quality ingredients. This approach has always defined their culinary vision and continues to shape the restaurant’s identity: “Our philosophy has always been based on celebrating seasonality and fresh seafood. From the very beginning, we’ve built a concept with a well-defined identity that, over time, has become a staple in Sassari. I must point out, however, that Sassari was a truly challenging market. We chose to offer contemporary cuisine in a region that, at the time, wasn’t yet accustomed to this type of culinary experience,” says Federica Ghiani. This challenge proved pivotal to their journey, allowing them to stand out and earn a spot in the Michelin Guide, an accolade the restaurant has maintained for four consecutive years—despite those who claimed they would close within a couple of months. This achievement was not an end in itself but has helped elevate the region, making it more attractive to an ever-evolving tourism industry. The signature dish that symbolizes this success is a personal story: a simple lemon risotto that Federica has been cooking since her college days, perfected by Pietro with the ingredient he loved and knew inside and out—seafood, specifically raw purple shrimp. A first course that made its way onto the menu and today remains both a cherished memory and a part of the family’s history.
ABSOLUTE RESPECT FOR THE RAW INGREDIENTS
At the heart of a high-caliber restaurant concept—in addition to clear objectives and solid professionalism—there must always be something subtle and profound: a combination of deeply personal elements capable of giving the cuisine a unique interpretation. The word “passion” may be overused, but it remains the only term capable of describing that fire that sustains a profession built on sacrifice, dedication, and perseverance. In the case of Osteria De’ Mercati, this set of values was the driving force behind its rebirth following the death of Pietro Satta, who tragically passed away during a fishing trip off the coast of Isola Rossa in January 2025. On February 14 of that same year, Federica Ghiani decided to reopen the restaurant, supported by a staff that, over the years, had become an extension of her family. A decision driven by the desire to honor “a shared passion and dream”: “I found myself facing the most difficult challenge,” she says, “Finding someone capable of carrying on our culinary philosophy. For me, it was essential that we not lose the way of working we had built over time, centered on absolute respect for the raw ingredients. I don’t buy fish that’s already portioned or cut into fillets, because fish isn’t born that way—it’s born whole. That’s why those who work with us must know every stage of its preparation; they must know how to fillet a bluefin tuna, a yellowtail, and every other species, starting with the whole fish.”
Since April 2025, the kitchen has been led by Christian Calcagno, a young chef who, after gaining extensive experience abroad, has succeeded in bringing his initial vision to life, infusing the kitchen with his own personality and a fresh sensibility. The search for the finest ingredients is the guiding principle behind every aspect of the kitchen’s operations—from the development of individual dishes to the creation of the menu—and is rooted in the chef’s ongoing research and experimentation. “I tiptoed into an already established, well-run business with a defined identity. At first, I focused above all on preserving the original vision, and then gradually introduced my own personal touch. The process, however, was based on collaboration and a commitment to keeping the concept of the osteria firmly at the heart of the project,” he explains.
PASTRY, INGREDIENTS, AND THE TERRITORY: THE TASTING MENU
The dishes served as part of the tasting are truly eloquent, starting with the amuse-bouche: a savory shortcrust tartlet with sheep’s milk ricotta mousse and mullet bottarga—a simple, unadorned prologue that clearly sets the stage for the story of the territory. Next up
Bluefin tuna belly pancetta, figs, and toasted almonds, and mullet prosciutto, kosho pompia, marinated plums, and a cold hibiscus infusion. “The pancetta stems from the idea of making the most of the ventresca as well; the goal was to use 100% of the product, with no waste and an approach that fully highlights the raw ingredients,” explains Chef Calcagno. These dishes stem from an exploration of Josh Niland’s approach, in which the concept of aging fish caught off the nearby coast intertwines with Sardinian produce, such as figs and pompia. The whole experience is enhanced by plum-based marinades and more exotic notes like hibiscus, striking a balance between technique, local terroir, and contemporary influences.
Next up is Risotto with goat cheese, lemon, capers, and purple shrimp from Alghero, a balance of contrasts in which the delicate sweetness of the shrimp blends with the tang of the goat cheese. The twist provided by the lemon and capers adds freshness and rounds out the dish, which proves to be perfectly balanced. The Sliced hake with a cold emulsion of datterino tomatoes, escarole, and black olives is a simple dish with clear Mediterranean roots, in which the fish takes center stage. The freshness of the catch—a cornerstone of Osteria De’ Mercati’s philosophy—is enhanced by a selection of ingredients from the land that highlight its excellence. The dessert speaks the language of innovation:Bavarian cream with mullet roe, ginger, and lemongrass; Catalan-style apricot; and Sichuan pepper, with a savory cocoa and almond brittle: “We chose to use mullet roe but in a way that’s different from the usual. Instead of drying them in salt and grating them over pasta, we decided to incorporate them into the dessert to give the dish an original and unexpected twist, highlighting a traditional ingredient in a completely new way,” explains Christian Calcagno.
The concept behind the dessert stems from the desire to conclude the meal on a light note, avoiding excessive sweetness that might leave a heavy aftertaste. Following a tasting focused on seafood, the choice is to offer a fresh, balanced, and unexpected finale—one that brings the experience to a close in perfect harmony with the menu. The attention to detail and care shown by Federica Ghiani and her team are also evident in the wine selection. Accompanying the tasting is Olianas Rosato Spumante Metodo Classico, a sparkling wine born from an unusual yet successful blend of 80% Cannonau and 20% Vermentino. This wine is produced by Tenuta Olianas, a winery in Gergei, in Sardinia’s Sarcidano region, which stands out for its particularly meticulous viticulture: the entire production follows the BioIntegrale method, a philosophy that integrates and goes beyond the principles of organic and biodynamic agriculture.
THE DISTINCTIVE FEATURE OF OSTERIA DE’ MERCATI
The concept is clear: local ingredients and seasonality, with a strong focus on the sea and seafood cuisine, while also offering meat and vegetarian options to provide a complete and well-rounded experience. Central to this is the idea of a cuisine deeply rooted in the use of fish and its various forms, where the focus is not on sustainability but on respect for the raw ingredients. And speaking of raw ingredients, Federica Ghiani adds: “Today, it’s increasingly important to understand them thoroughly and learn to use them to their fullest potential, especially in a context where costs are high. It’s no longer enough to use it just to make broth: you can always create something new and useful in the kitchen from heads, bones, and scraps. It takes study, attention, and the ability to interpret”. This implies a higher-level approach to cooking, where every part of the ingredient is highlighted through carefully crafted structures, textures, and pairings. It is in this balance between technique and sensitivity that a dish capable of standing out is born.
THE ACRONYM OM: HOSPITALITY, HARMONY, AND ALCHEMY
Osteria De’ Mercati was born from a vision of hospitality understood as a “slow” experience, grounded in the value of time and the harmony between the dining environment and the cuisine. This same philosophy is also reflected in OM, the acronym that defines the restaurant through a dual meaning: on the one hand, it evokes the concept of “home,” infusing the restaurant’s atmosphere with a sense of intimacy and warmth; on the other, it is a clear reference to the “Om” sound of Sanskrit tradition, a symbol of harmony and connection with the absolute. An expression that defines a true alchemical work in which the cuisine enters into dialogue with the deepest elements of Sardinian nature—from the sea to the land—revealing its richness and myriad nuances.
Contact
Phone: 079 207 4486
