It’s no surprise that one of the most promising names in contemporary Italian cuisine—Anastasia Paris—is the chef and co-owner of this restaurant. Esterina is her seafood-focused culinary creation, one of the best on the coast.
The Chef and the Restaurants
I like Anastasia Paris because when you talk to her about dishes, her eyes get huge and sparkle, and as you speak, her face follows the rhythm of your voice, as if she were in a deep meditative state; she loves the value of what she does—even when she’s not doing it—and she shares that with you. To describe her, you’d say she’s thirty-two years old, comes from Celano in Abruzzo, and has charted a path over the last few years that doesn’t follow a straight line. Umbria, Sardinia, Liguria, Lazio, and a significant stint in Australia. She’s gained experience in the kitchen, front of house, butcher shops, and catering. This diverse background is part of a path chosen out of a thirst for knowledge, which in April 2025 led her to open Futura in Rome’s Rione Monti neighborhood. With about twenty seats, an open kitchen, a chef’s table, and prestigious and popular awards and accolades, until in June 2026 she decided to take over a historic restaurant on the Lazio coast, Esterina, in Civitavecchia.
Esterina isn’t exactly (just) a second restaurant for Anastasia, but rather represents a second culinary language she has developed alongside Daniele Conte; a young chef with experience at Da Lucio and Pascucci al Porticciolo. Together, these two chefs have become the finest contemporary interpretation of the seafaring tradition rooted in the most important port area of the central Tyrrhenian Sea.
Futura is an intimate glass box suspended over the sea, situated on a narrow strip of coastline with crystal-clear waters and a natural pool directly below the dining room’s view. The atmosphere is built on the intimate, direct relationship between the welcoming staff and guests; the tables are well spaced apart, and light floods every corner through the three glass walls, creating a sense of spaciousness. Esterina is the sea, the harbor, and Civitavecchia—a place that for years has been a landmark for the seafood cuisine of the Lazio coast, which Anastasia has chosen not to overhaul, but to reinterpret.
The harbor as an ingredient at Esterina
Esterina’s culinary concept is built around a simple yet ambitious premise centered on fresh seafood from Civitavecchia: the immediate flavor of each ingredient, with taste as the key to balance. The appetizer section is titledLa geometria del porto and is the most overtly technical part of the menu when it comes to fish, which is interpreted through four distinct techniques: raw, marinated, smoked, and aged. It’s not a tasting menu hidden among the appetizers, but a true map of possibilities crafted daily based on the day’s catch. I sample the Aged yellowtail with white peach and bitter almonds, and the fish itself takes center stage, with a firm texture and an elegant flavor that’s perfectly balanced in intensity. The sauces complement its sweetness without ever overpowering it. The anchovies with buttermilk and spicy cucumbers keep the vinegar notes subtle and emphasize a fresh balsamic flavor.
The first courses blend Civitavecchia tradition; the local fish soup is a work of culinary research whose depth is fully revealed with every spoonful. A shellfish bisque, a reduced sauce and a slow-simmered sauce, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, and raw ingredients that cook gently among the broken spaghetti. A warm, intense, satisfying, and technically masterful dish.
Spaghetti with clams (and bottarga) is finally a worthy return to the great classics of the coast—one of the best I’ve ever had in recent years. The garlic is used sparingly, and the dish is fragrant and intense, with flavorful clams that have a nice texture. I’m left wanting to try the Linguine with razor clams, sweet-and-sour garlic, and black lemon.
For the main course, you can choose between a mixed seafood fry-up or the catch of the day, but I was won over by the Mediterranean-style squid stuffed with bread and served with sun-dried tomato tzatziki. Tender squid rings stuffed with moist bread—in which Taggiasca olives stand out—served with a balanced, fresh garlic sauce that leaves a clean finish on the palate. Among the olive oil-inspired desserts is a creation by Chiara Pannozzo dedicated to the city and its women, “Risacca,” with lemon, sambuca, and coffee. Although I ended up enjoying a delicious Pavlova with mascarpone cream. First, however, I must highlight a goat’s milk panna cotta served with baby fennel and extra virgin olive oil; a perfect pre-dessert, clean and fresh, aromatic and with a sharp kick from the salt crystals.
In my glass, an initial discovery: Alessandra Divella’s Clo Clo Zero Dosage Rosé, recommended to me by the maître d’ and sommelier Gabriele Recanatesi, a true metronome of attentive, measured, and competent service. In this regard,the wine list features 180 labels, including wines from the Lazio region, other Italian selections, and offerings from France, Spain, and Portugal—ranging from conventional to natural and biodynamic; without ideological rigidity, but with a strong focus on by-the-glass service.
On the lower level is Terrazza di Capri, a new space dedicated to aperitifs and after-dinner drinks in collaboration with Limoncello di Capri. It features arched openings without glass facing the sea, high-backed seating overlooking the water, seating for about thirty, a bar, and seven lemon trees. Here, the drink menu is curated by Carlos Soriano Valle, Brand Ambassador for Gran Torino. Guests can also order a selection of dishes from the kitchen while on the terrace.
The revival of a historic establishment always has a romantic charm; it embodies the drive of those who want to make it happen, and that enthusiasm is contagious—especially if the place lives up to its promise. Personally, Esterina gave me the gift of surprise. Crystal-clear water, a floor-to-ceiling window with a boundless view, and cuisine that leaves you longing to return.
Esterina:
Via Aurelia Sud 25, Civitavecchia (RM). Tel. 0766036296.
Open Tuesday through Sunday: 12:00 PM–3:00 PM and 7:30 PM–11:00 PM.
Terrazza di Capri:
Tuesday through Sunday, 5:00 PM–12:00 AM
