The chef speaks candidly, revealing even the challenges he faced early on. “Those of us who didn’t like school went straight into the kitchen, because back then there weren’t many other opportunities.” Today, however, he is one of Europe’s brightest talents.
The chef
Speaking is one of Alain Ducasse’s closest protégés. Bouhours, 37, joined the kitchens of the Louis XV in Monaco at a very young age during his apprenticeship and has remained in the renowned French chef’s circle ever since. After working at the Plaza Athénée and Lasserre, he joined Le Meurice in 2016, where he has served as executive chef since 2020. “For me, Alain Ducasse is a mentor, almost a second father,” he recently told El País. He says he learned much more than just technique from his mentor. “He instilled in me discipline, rigor, and respect for ingredients and seasonality. But above all, he taught me what hospitality truly means. Ours is a deeply human profession, because every day we meet people from different cultures.” His daily work takes place at one of Paris’s most prestigious hotels, where approximately 800 guests are served each day. It’s a complex operation that encompasses the fine-dining restaurant, breakfast, room service, and all of the hotel’s dining offerings. “Breakfast is a crucial moment,” he confesses. “For many guests, it marks the start of the day, and everything must be impeccable: the coffee, the croissant, the pain au chocolat, the butter. Alain Ducasse is also particularly attentive to the quality of specialty coffee.”
Among the most challenging services, he singles out room service. “Many rooms place orders at the same time, and the elevators are what they are. In a luxury hotel, however, guests expect absolute punctuality, and we have to rise to the occasion.” The reputation of a name like Alain Ducasse is certainly an advantage, but it also comes with very high expectations. “When you work at such a prestigious establishment, everything has to run perfectly, both in the kitchen and in the dining room.” Compared to the tasting menu at the two-Michelin-star restaurant, the chef loves to use bitter, acidic, or smoky notes to enhance seafood dishes (see the use of smoked yogurt or citrus fruits), and bolder touches like black garlic or hops for meat dishes. The stars of the show are the “land and sea” pairings, in which he offers creative and unusual combinations—for example, pairing game with shellfish and crustaceans. At its core, the cuisine at Le Meurice is modern, natural, and rooted in French tradition. It combines respect for the land and seasonality with a strong focus on sustainability and small local producers.
Looking back on his early days, Bouhours smiles as he recalls the restless boy who struggled to sit still in his school desk: he suffered from hyperactivity and couldn’t concentrate. “I didn’t like studying. Back then, anyone who didn’t do well in school often ended up in the kitchen, because there weren’t many other options.” Today, his parents look on with pride at how far he’s come, even though the chef warns against being fooled by the image portrayed on television. “Cooking talent shows make everything look simple, but they only show a small part of our work. Behind every dish, there are countless hours, sacrifices, and a completely artisanal process.”
Despite his international career, Bouhours isn’t dreaming of opening his own restaurant just yet. The reason is mainly linked to the difficulties many restaurants are facing today. “Finding qualified staff is getting more and more complicated. The same goes for high-quality artisanal products. Plus, mid-range customers are paying much closer attention to their spending than in the past.” This situation also affects Paris, where real estate costs continue to rise along with restaurant wine prices. Finally, when asked if he enjoys long tasting menus, he answers with a smile. “I’m happy to choose them when I’m in Spain. In France, however, many customers don’t like spending three hours at the table. For them, it’s simply too long.”
