Steven McDonald developed an allergy to wine, but he hasn't given up on his passions. Irony of fate? A former musician turned award-winning sommelier breaks out in hives after a sip of certain wines.
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In a world where luxury and tradition meet, a unique figure emerges: Steven McDonald, head sommelier at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, a true wine master, awarded the prestigious Sommelier Award by the Michelin Guide on his debut in Texas in 2024. This recognition celebrates his mastery and encyclopaedic knowledge, which guide him in managing the three impressive wine lists of one of the state's most celebrated steakhouses. But McDonald's story is anything but conventional. Forget the image of the sommelier born among the vineyards. Steven dreamed of different stages, those of music, conducting school bands with passion. A move to New York, following his wife, rewrote his destiny. “The obvious path was hospitality, following in the footsteps of my brothers who were already in the industry,” he says. He started out as a waiter, but his interest in wine, like a well-tended vine, quickly blossomed.
An unpaid internship in the wine department of Tribeca Grill, experience in a wine bar, and, after passing rigorous exams, the role of sommelier at Ai Fiori, his debut in haute cuisine. In 2011, the birth of his daughter marked another chapter: his return to Texas. Thanks to an advanced certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers America, McDonald almost immediately walked through the doors of Pappas Bros., quickly climbing the ranks to manage the entire wine selection for the three locations. And here the plot thickens: Steven McDonald developed an allergy to wine. Irony of fate? A former musician turned award-winning sommelier breaks out in hives after a sip of certain wines. But, even if it means carrying medicine (read: Benadryl) with him at all times, he chooses to continue on his path. “It's the most incredible thing that has ever happened to me,” McDonald said enthusiastically in a statement reported by Eater about the award. “I put it on the same level as the birth of my children, getting married, and passing my master sommelier exams. The ceremony is spectacular, almost like a play. It's the closest thing to winning an Oscar I could imagine, and I'm still excited about it. The timing was perfect.”
Receiving this award at a time of change for the wine industry is significant. McDonald notes a growing demand for non-alcoholic wines, in line with the general trend toward drinking less. During the pandemic, many people became passionate about wine, exploring new labels and becoming more knowledgeable consumers. "Young people, in particular, wanted to experience the whole world of wine. They weren't just drinking what their parents drank. They were discovering more international wines at supersonic speed. They were much more curious and a little more knowledgeable at 21 and 22 years old." Despite being a classic Texas steakhouse, where Californian wines reign supreme, there is a growing interest in European wines and wines from other continents on the menu. A new generation of collectors, more knowledgeable and with sophisticated tastes, is entering the world of wine. Houston, in particular, seems to favor French wines, with a particular focus on Burgundy, while Dallas appreciates Italian wine more. Pappas Bros. has avoided the trend for extreme natural wines, focusing on quality products, although there is no shortage of original and “nerdy” offerings for connoisseurs.
The wine industry is trying to attract a younger audience by offering non-alcoholic cocktails and drinks with a story to tell. The aim is to create unique experiences, such as themed dinners and collaborations with cultural institutions, such as the Houston Symphony, to make wine more accessible and less intimidating. Pappas Bros. sources wines from around the world, with a selection ranging from the most prestigious regions to more exotic ones, such as Georgia and Turkey. The wine lists are impressive, with the largest boasting around 6,000 labels. The most expensive bottle ever opened at McDonald's? A 1961 Petrus, a Pomerol from the right bank of Bordeaux, worth around $15,000. A unique experience, a luxury that few can afford, where value lies in rarity and exclusivity. For those new to the world of wine, the advice is simple: talk to a trusted sommelier, be curious, and don't be afraid to experiment. There are excellent wines at affordable prices, you just need to know where to look.
McDonald predicts an evolution in the industry, with a possible correction in California wine prices and an opening up to new opportunities, such as cannabis cultivation. Despite the uncertainties surrounding customs tariffs, Pappas Bros. is committed to ensuring that wine remains a central part of the customer experience. His favorite wine at the moment? Champagne J. LaSalle Preference, a label he shares with his wife, who is passionate about sparkling wines. McDonald concludes by emphasizing Pappas Bros.' commitment to making wine accessible to everyone, creating a welcoming and dynamic atmosphere where curiosity is always rewarded. A place where passion and expertise reign supreme, thanks to a team of talented professionals ready to offer an unforgettable experience. And where are his Michelin awards? On display in his bar corner, testifying to an extraordinary journey marked by challenges and successes.
