In the world of contemporary haute cuisine, the role of the sommelier is evolving from that of cellar keeper to active interpreter of the chef's vision. One example is Frederic Oliva, 29, head sommelier at Enigma in Barcelona.
The value of the glass: Frederic Oliva and cutting-edge sommellerie at Enigma
At a time when Albert Adrià's restaurant is celebrating its second Michelin star, Oliva brings a vision that combines rigorous economic management with a humanistic sensibility, derived from his studies in art history.
An expanding wine cellar between France and Catalonia
Since taking up his post, Oliva has brought about a quantitative and qualitative change in the wine list, increasing the number of labels from 300 to over 1,100. Although France currently accounts for 70% of the selection, the stated goal is to promote the Catalan region more effectively. According to the sommelier, the local sector suffers from communication that is still too basic: “We have incredible potential, but many companies invest more in wine tourism than in their own wines,” he explained here in La Vanguardia, emphasizing the need to raise the bar in production in order to compete on international markets.
The ethics of the supply chain: the cost of grapes
One of the most significant points in Oliva's reflection concerns the responsibility of consumers and professionals in relation to price dynamics. His criticism is directed at the excessive pursuit of low costs, which often conceals an imbalance in the entire production chain.
For Oliva, choosing a bottle is not just a gastronomic act, but economic support for a system that must guarantee dignity for those who cultivate the land.
The technique of conceptual pairing
The working method at Enigma reflects the complexity of Adrià's cuisine. Pairings do not always arise from directly tasting the dish, but from a conceptual connection. One example is the pairing of “denuded” sea cucumber with a Blanc de Noirs: both products share the removal of the peel or skin, a choice that links wine and food on an intellectual level even before a gustatory one.
The restaurant applies this philosophy in two ways:
- Enigma: A balanced selection to accompany the gastronomic experience.
- Eureka: An option designed for enthusiasts, which includes rare labels whose market value is often higher than the cost of the pairing itself.
The future of the dining room
Despite his accolades, including the Basque Culinary Center award, Oliva maintains a pragmatic approach to his career. Leading a team of very young sommeliers (all under the age of 30), he sees the dining room as a sector full of opportunities for those willing to manage the stress of unpredictable and dynamic service. For Oliva, wine remains a bridge between disciplines: an art form that, in order to be appreciated, requires expertise, curiosity, and, above all, a deep respect for the raw material.
