This Parisian gastronomic institution, a temple of history and wine, offers unprecedented access to its immense cellar, which boasts nearly 300,000 bottles and a new state-of-the-art storage system.
Cover photo credit: Benoit Linero
The news
La Tour d'Argent, one of Paris' most celebrated and historic restaurants, famous for its commanding position overlooking the Seine, has completed an impressive redevelopment of its basement. For the first time in its long history, this legendary establishment, winner of the Wine Spectator Grand Award since 1986 (the magazine itself reported the news), will open the doors of its monumental cellars to the public through guided tours. Spanning 1,100 square meters beneath the 5th arrondissement, these wine catacombs house one of the world's most prestigious private collections, a priceless treasure trove of nearly 300,000 bottles. The recent transformation has focused on creating the perfect conditions for aging wines. The president of Groupe La Tour d'Argent, André Terrail, emphasized the importance of planning the collection with a time horizon of “15, 20, sometimes 50 years.”
The biggest challenge in a historic Parisian building is maintaining a constant temperature. For this reason, the cellars, spread over two levels, have been equipped with a completely new and advanced air conditioning system. Victor Gonzalez, executive head sommelier, assures us that the new system guarantees a constant temperature between 12 and 14°C (53-57°F) all year round, a critical factor for the very long maturation required. In addition to its oenological value, the La Tour d'Argent cellar is a place steeped in history. During the Nazi occupation of Paris, André's father, Claude Terrail, orchestrated a secret and daring maneuver to protect the most precious vintages. Together with the maître d'hôtel, Terrail erected a false wall deep inside the vault. “Mr. Terrail returned at night just to build the wall...,” Gonzalez revealed. Unaware of the fake separation, the Nazis never discovered the valuable bottles that aged undisturbed behind the hidden barrier for five years.
It should be noted, however, that modern thieves have proven to be more skilled. In January 2024, the restaurant had to report the disappearance of more than 80 bottles, including some rare Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, worth approximately $1.63 million, stolen during renovation work. In an era dominated by tasting menus and glass pairings, La Tour d'Argent maintains a firm and traditional stance on its wine philosophy: serving wine exclusively by the bottle. For Gonzalez, this is a family tradition that must be upheld. “We firmly believe in drinking wine from the bottle,” he explains. Not only is this approach inherently convivial (“A bottle is enjoyable to share among guests”), but it also allows the wine to evolve and interact with the entire meal, offering a dynamic experience. As Gonzalez observes, “Every single sip or glass you drink is almost a different wine.”
This unconventional mindset extends to pairings. Surprising choices are encouraged: the iconic pressed duck (Canard Tour d'Argent) might be accompanied by an aged white Hermitage or a white Burgundy Grand Cru, rather than a conventional red. Today, under Gonzalez's leadership, the cellar looks at how to “bring modernity.” This includes embracing the “extraordinary quality of wine we have today in general,” with targeted acquisitions. Terrail sets an example by pairing classic Bordeaux with more playful selections from regions such as Jura and Savoie, including high-quality biodynamic and natural wines. The wine program also extends to customer service, with the offer of a “Personal Wine Shopper,” described as a true “concierge” for enthusiasts.
Guided tours, which will soon be available for booking on the restaurant's website and through concierge services, will offer a complete immersion in this “living museum.” Terrail prefers to maintain an aura of mystery, but promises guests the opportunity to “immerse themselves and spend time with the team of sommeliers, listen to the history of the cellar and the logistics... which is very complex.” It will be a unique opportunity to understand the acquisition strategy and conservation philosophy behind a collection that must be constantly managed and updated, because, as Terrail says, “There's no point in buying wine if you don't know how to sell it.”
