Located at the intersection of Nolita and Chinatown, Andy Quinn and Cedric Nicaise’s new culinary mecca combines the lively smoke of a wood-fired grill with a wine list of extraordinary and rare depth.
Photos by William Jess Laird and Evan Sung
Right where Chinatown’s vibrant energy meets Nolita’s laid-back elegance, a new restaurant is redefining the standards of fine dining in New York. It’s called Oriana, an atmospheric venue bathed in warm amber hues, born from the combined talent of chef Andy Quinn and sommelier Cedric Nicaise. Already close collaborators since their days at the prestigious Eleven Madison Park and founders of the successful Noortwyck in the West Village, the two have raised the bar even higher, gifting the city one of the most captivating dining rooms and wine cellars of the year, honored with Wine Spectator’s 2026 Best of Award of Excellence(which highlights the restaurant’s offerings here).
Even before leafing through the impressive wine list, it’s the scent of burning wood that captures the senses. In the heart of the dining room stands a majestic, custom-built wood-fired grill—the very soul of Andy Quinn’s culinary vision. Cooking over an open flame isn’t just a technique; it’s a true, invisible ingredient that permeates the entire dining experience. The experience begins with dishes that have a strong personality: fragrant bread toasted over the coals and served with yogurt butter, morel mushrooms nestled on creamy polenta, and a clever selection of seafood ranging from seared oysters with 'nduja to bluefin tuna paired with rhubarb and anchovies, all the way to a rich lobster salad enhanced with brown butter.
Among the main courses, the ingredients reflect the neighborhood’s heritage: highlights include pork chops, beef diaphragm, and, above all, grilled duck—a sophisticated and succulent tribute to the famous lacquered ducks of nearby Chinatown. This distinct penchant for charred aromas and smoky notes finds its natural expressive complement in a very specific wine region: the Rhône Valley. Nicaise encourages guests to explore this section of the wine menu without delay—it is often underrated but capable of offering memorable pairings at affordable prices.
While the culinary offerings captivate with their immediacy and precision, Oriana’s wine cellar amazes with its breadth and historiographical rigor. With over 1,700 wines—a staggering increase from the 400 labels at Noortwyck—the selection ranges effortlessly across Burgundy, the Rhône, the Loire, Germany, Italy, and California.
The Gems of Oriana’s Wine Cellar:
Veuve Clicquot 1975 Commemorative Cuvée: Two extremely rare bottles created specifically for the royal wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana. A truly one-of-a-kind collector’s item.
The Great Vertical Tastings: Robert Chevillon starting with the 1989 vintage, over twenty signature selections from Domaine Jamet dating back to 1997, and Bordeaux icons such as Château Pape Clément from 1978 onward.
The Masters of the Rhône and Burgundy: A wide selection from Jean-Louis Chave and Pierre Gonon, alongside gems from small niche producers such as Didier Fornerol and Ghislaine Barthod.
Californian Maturity: An in-depth exploration of historic vintages from Napa and Sonoma (Diamond Creek, Dalla Valle, Jordan) to demonstrate the aging potential of great American Cabernets.
To make this vast wine culture accessible even to those who wish to explore more nuances throughout the evening, Oriana offers nearly fifty selections served in elegant 375-ml half-carafes — featuring gems such as Chave’s 2023 Hermitage Blanc, Biondi-Santi’s 2017 Brunello di Montalcino, and Mayacamas’ 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder 2021 from Mayacamas—as well as a refined selection of wines by the glass that highlights regions such as Provence’s Peyrassol and Alsace’s Albert Boxler.
Oriana thus establishes itself not only as one of Manhattan’s most dazzling new venues, but also as a true sanctuary for lovers of the good life, where the raw power of the primordial fire blends with the sophistication of the world’s finest wines.
