Food & Wine

Smash burgers? “Just a fad, it's burnt meat.” Chef Odón Martínez opens the debate

by:
Silvia Morstabilini
|
copertina smash burger

The hamburger has undergone a transformation. Once a symbol of fast food, with pre-packaged buns and anonymous meat, it has now become a cult dish even among the most demanding chefs. This is demonstrated by Odón Martínez, a Spanish chef at the helm of the restaurant El Granaíno, awarded a Repsol Sun, who in a recent interview shared on TikTok by @elmonochef shared his personal vision of the ideal hamburger. A counter-current vision that rejects passing fads to rediscover simplicity and balance.

The opinion

Martinéz starts from a premise that is as simple as it is radical: the perfect sandwich does not have to please everyone, but it must respect the soul of the dish. “My version probably wouldn't appeal to almost anyone today,” he admits candidly. Yet it is precisely this honesty that reveals his idea of cooking: no shortcuts, no contrived wow effects, just quality ingredients and flawless execution.

No smash, no overly aged meat

ODON MARTINEZ 2
 

The starting point is the meat. “I don't like it too tenderized,” explains the chef from Murcia, as reported here by La Vanguardia, emphasizing how the flavor must be clean, recognizable, and linked to a good cut from locally raised animals. For him, a hamburger should not be a pretext for hiding extreme flavors, but a celebration of meat in all its essence. This is why he distances himself from one of the strongest trends of recent years: the smash burger, a patty (meatball, ed.) hyper-pressed on the griddle to achieve extreme crispness and smoky aromas.I don't like the smash version. I don't like the burnt taste,” he says without hesitation. It's a strong statement that sets him apart from the trendy trend that turns every recipe into an aesthetic performance rather than a gastronomic one. With all due respect to viral online content.

Gemini Generated Image smash burger 2
Gemini

A simple, classic, authentic recipe

So what, according to Odón Martínez, is the perfect hamburger? The answer is clear: classic, succulent and with essential ingredients. “I like it to have a nice shape, to be juicy, with a few shavings of Parmigiano, some vegetables such as lettuce and tomato. Pickles too. Super classic. You have to be able to taste the meat,” he says. No exotic ingredients, no extravagance. Just a balance between the components, respect for the raw ingredients, and attention to cooking. A philosophy that could be defined as “minimalist taste,” where every element has a specific role and nothing is superfluous.

The boom in “gourmet” hamburgers (and the risk of losing one's bearings)

Gemini Generated Image smash burger 3
Gemini

Martínez's reflection comes at a time when “gourmet” or supposedly gourmet burgers are enjoying a golden age. Specialized restaurants, creative formats, artisan bread, select meat: the sandwich has become a testing ground for many restaurateurs and chefs. However, as often happens in successful cycles, there is a risk of slipping into excess. Bright colors, sweet sauces, bold combinations: we've seen it all in recent years. Yet, amid this creative chaos, the chef at El Granaíno stands out for his steadfastness. “Less is more,” he seems to say with every choice, inviting us to rediscover authenticity through simplicity.

The hamburger as an exercise in gastronomic honesty

ODON MARTINEZ bocadillo de El Granino 1
A bocadillo by El Granaìno

In a gastronomic world increasingly dominated by image and virality, Odón Martínez sends a counter-current message: making a great hamburger is not about impressing, but knowing how to bring out the essential. Meat, bread, condiments: everything must contribute to a harmony of flavors that does not shout, but speaks clearly. It is an approach deeply rooted in respect for the product, tradition, and the awareness that even the simplest dish can become a masterpiece if made with care. “The perfect burger,” Martínez implicitly concludes, “doesn't need special effects. Just respect and true taste.”

ODON MARTINEZ 1
 

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