From a “home for artists” after theater performances to a hotel with one Michelin Key, the Locarno demonstrates how high-end hospitality can retain a warm, family-like charm while also offering visitors one of Rome’s best brunches. The menu? A cultural slalom that zigzags between Italy, England, and the East.
Desktop cover: breakfast at Locarno and a portrait of Caterina Valente, the restaurant’s owner. Mobile cover: brunch at Locarno.
Photographs by Adriana Forconi
One word, two meals, and thousands of ways to combine them: brunch is such a pop culture ritual that it has even prompted the addition of a new “macedonia” term to the English dictionary. But this midpoint between a good morning and an early lunch is not just a trend in the rustic vein of bistro cuisine. Today, brunch also means waking up late in a 5-star hotel suite and pushing past the 11 a.m. breakfast cutoff, or meeting up in one of Rome’s most intriguing “agora” lounges for a tasting with friends.
At Locarno, this happens every weekend, with the added bonus of a menu entirely dedicated to the quintessential crossover drink: the Bloody Mary. Thus was born the “Bloody Brunch,” backed by a signature culinary offering that elegantly says “no” to convention. While the usual sweet-and-savory repertoire insists on avocado toast and pancakes with British-style toppings (want to bet? “with red berries” in 99% of cases), here executive chef Domenico Smargiassi serves up dishes like Benedict Eggs with truffle, Burgers with grilled pineapple, and Lamb kebab skewers that spark intriguing affinities with the Saxon cocktail. In the background, a chic, bon-ton outdoor garden and a human ray of light that illuminates the table: that of Veronica Filippone, the driving force behind the front-of-house team. She is the one who tells us about the evolution of the establishment, sharing anecdotes and smiles that reveal a rare passion for the craft.
Locarno, the century-old family-run hotel: 1 Michelin Star, blending history and identity
“Behind these walls lies the work of strong women who, piece by piece, have built a vision of contemporary hospitality right in the heart of the historic center,” explains Veronica. “The hotel was opened by Swiss entrepreneurs (hence the name ”Locarno," ed.) and acquired in the 1960s by Maria Teresa Celli, a major collector with a passion for art. Originally, it had only one floor available, so her project literally started from the ground up; in the meantime, however, she managed to create something special: a ‘home for artists,’ since it welcomed everyone at any hour, including actors after their shows." A “welcome all day long” that, with the arrival of the 5-star rating and the recent Michelin Key in 2024 (just as the Guide focused on the hotel industry debuted), has never ceased to define the house’s philosophy: “Even today, you can eat anywhere and without time constraints, nor is there a specific dining area. If needed, we’ll even set the table at the cocktail bar counter!”
A gathering place for stars, authors, and thinkers: a journey through history
The question naturally arises: what has changed since then? “The scope. The foresight of Mrs. Celli and, later, of her daughter and current owner Caterina Valente, allowed the family to incorporate a second building into the main structure.” However, this leap forward coincided with a pledge of loyalty to the past: “Inside, each room is different and has its own unique features—something quite unusual for hospitality of that era. We jealously preserve them intact in their original decor, as a testament to how the Locarno has grown step by step while respecting its beginnings.”
Federico Fellini, Marcello Mastroianni, Willem Dafoe: these are just a few of the stars who walked through the doors “suitcase in hand” during filming, often leaving messages in tribute to the staff (“Locarno is my home away from home,” wrote Isabella Rossellini, for example). It’s striking, then, to think that between a refreshing drink in the lobby and waking up to a view of Rome’s rooftops, Wes Anderson wove the intricate plot of The Grand Budapest Hotel within these very spaces. The flashback, needless to say, begins with the Art Deco-style bar’s bottle rack and culminates in the antique design objects displayed in the windows: small nooks to explore upon arrival, before finally feasting your eyes on one of the two panoramic rooftop terraces. But let’s get back to brunch, a high-intensity culinary jam session that now brings together locals, Romans, and vacationers in leisure mode.
The Bloody Brunch: When Sweet and Savory Come Together
The watchword is informality: once seated, you’re free to use cutlery or not, choosing from a wide array of options that complement the finger food. After the delicious fried artichokes with Tabasco mayonnaise, what really catches your attention are the culinary themes the chef has chosen to define his approach; not so much for the variety on the menu, but for the mix-and-match of cultures that seem to come together naturally on the menu. The Caesar salad is there, though true to its Italian roots, with buffalo mozzarella topping the classic grilled chicken; in response, the French toast appears right on cue among the desserts, but it too wears a “local” twist thanks to the bread-to-egg ratio (in other words, it will leave a taste of grain rather than butter in your mouth: well done!).
On the burger front, the roasted pineapple variant stands out as a pleasant surprise. This is no heresy; on the contrary: “The fruit is left to sit for a while under coarse salt to tone down its sweetness,” reveals the chef. “This adds roundness, freshness, and a subtle smokiness from the grill.” The juicy bite confirms the success of this tropical addition, which holds its own against the lingering flavor of the cheddar. The Eggs Benedict, on the other hand, are served in a Roman-style sauce, given the cacio e pepe topping (with 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano) that serves as a landing strip for a flake of black truffle: at times rustic, at times refined, the perfect balance to elevate a classic dish.
As your appetite builds, it’s fun to browse the pasta section, where we recommend ordering a few signature dishes to share (the ideal setting? A large group gathering). The Paccheri with wild boar in Sangiovese and Fossa cheese is delightful, with the gamey flavor tamed by the robust notes of aged cheese. “There’s also biryani, an Asian dish that hints at the origins of a historic member of the team,” Smargiassi confesses. So, make way for the lamb kebab, marinated for 24 hours and grilled, “which we make using only the breast of the animal to ensure a skewer free of residual fat.” It proves tender and delightful on the palate, the perfect protein-packed snack to enjoy again after a marathon of museums in the area. We haven’t forgotten the Bloody Marys, among which El Chapo (Tequila, Mezcal, House Bloody Mix, Five Spice Rims) wins hands down: with a balanced spiciness that takes the sip from an Eastern bite to an Italian-style taste.
Escape to a suite: a gathering of eras in real time, while waiting for the evening drink
The time machine springs into action the moment the room key is collected: instead of the usual electronic card, guests receive a nostalgic deck of cards as an invitation to immediately immerse themselves in the setting. Noteworthy is the Prestige Deluxe “Degli Artisti”, the former Venetian residence of the Canossa family, which still features its original frescoes and stucco work.
The direct view of Piazza del Popolo seems to somehow connect the vitality of the city center with the laid-back vibe of *Roman Holiday*; a real-life movie destined to continue as the sun sets, when the lights dim and the ground-floor lounge becomes a chic gathering spot for aperitifs. Here, the mind drifts to the “Roaring Twenties” and the taste buds rejoice once more with the Grande Dame, a signature drink by bar manager Nicholas Pinna that celebrates Locarno’s centennial by refreshing the French 75 with bay leaf and a wisteria fragrance on the classic base of gin and Champagne. Beside it, a bookmark featuring a watercolor of the Lady created by a member of the team: the souvenir that makes you realize you’re in the right place at the right time, because true luxury is the human touch.
Hotel Locarno
Via della Penna, 22, 00186 Roma RM
Phone: 06 361 0841
