The story of a dining experience that blends history, scenery, and design in the heart of the Upper Vinschgau Valley. The Weisses Kreuz is a hidden gem of relaxation, featuring six tables with views of the highest peaks in the Eastern Alps.
Photo credit: Daniel Zangerl
Burgusio is one of those places that seem to exist outside of time. With fewer than 900 inhabitants, a handful of houses clustered around the square, and a silence that is never empty—filled instead by the water flowing from a centuries-old fountain. We are in Upper Val Venosta, nestled between the mountains of South Tyrol and the peaks of the Eastern Alps that reach closest to the sky, where the light shifts rapidly, painting soft landscapes among the summits. Here, amid ancient Roman roads and a slow-paced rhythm, hospitality takes on a different meaning: it is not merely a welcome, but an immersion.
In the square of Burgusio, nestled among 13th-century buildings and 19th-century farmsteads, stands the Hotel Weisses Kreuz – Adults Only, a property that blends seamlessly into the village, almost as if it were part of the landscape. Yet stepping inside reveals a world of contrasts, where Gothic stube and contemporary lines, centuries-old wood and glass coexist. A generational story woven from memory and vision. Here, the Theiner family is the common thread running through it all. The hotel’s history is intertwined with that of the region, evolving from a shop to a farm, from a restaurant to a place of hospitality. Today, Mara Theiner leads this project, with a smile among her curls and a youthful yet deeply rooted and sensitive gaze. The result is a place that invites you to slow down, to rediscover time as a space to inhabit.
The property is a charming, adults-only retreat featuring 37 suites overlooking the village and the mountains; terraces and spacious bathrooms with bathtubs, along with wood and slate, strike a perfect balance between warmth and the natural beauty of the mountains. The Aurea Mea Spa is a true oasis of peace and silence. The infinity pool is heated year-round, divided between indoor and outdoor sections, with views of the Monte Maria Abbey and the Ortles massif (the highest mountain in South Tyrol). Then there are wellness treatments in the capable hands of Maddalena, as well as saunas and a Turkish bath in perfect naturist style. In this setting, you’ll find a lounge bar with a fireplace, pastel-colored furnishings, candles at sunset, and a large restaurant with a terrace, where a sumptuous breakfast is also served. Trust Andrea and Jana to make you feel right at home.
MaMesa, six tables in the Alps
While the property’s spaces are always spacious, MaMesa is an intimate glass box overlooking the valley and Mount Ortles. The transparency offers a sense of openness, and the sharp light of sunset sets the stage for attentive service led by Jennifer and Mara Theiner. Chef Marc Bernhart’s fine-dining restaurant, in perfect harmony with pastry chef Kay, represents the most refined culinary offering in the area. Just six tables, in a former barn transformed in 2022 following the collaboration between Mara Theiner and chef Marc Bernhart. The name itself tells a story: “mesa,” in Rhaeto-Romanic, means table; “Ma” is a tribute to the shared initials of their names. An identity built from the very beginning on a clear idea: to create connections. The cuisine of Bernhart, a native of the area, is unambiguously local in its roots and global in its influences.
This balance translates into dishes that blend South Tyrolean, French, and Asian influences—particularly Thai and Japanese—resulting in a cuisine that plays on depth, acidity, and umami, often through the use of fermentation. The menu unfolds like a structured narrative, in which each dish is a chapter. The dry-aged char interacts with radish and rice vinegar; fermented asparagus meets trout caviar and wild garlic. The foie gras with beurre blanc and ginger, green papaya, and mango is a full-bodied dish with a lingering spiciness. The local Wagyu tartare with beets, smoked crème fraîche, crispy potatoes, and horseradish, on the other hand, is a very complex dish. Sweetness, freshness, a playful bite, and controlled acidity...
When it comes to Wagyu and farm animals, including wild boar, the focus on ingredients is particularly significant. The chef personally oversees the family farm, which supplies key elements of the cuisine—such as the Wagyu raised in Burgusio as part of a fully integrated production cycle. Speck is also made in-house, following a family recipe, as is the honey. Alongside this local focus, ingredients from all over the world are featured: Norwegian scallops, Thai curry, and Mazara red shrimp.
This isn’t about exoticism for its own sake, but rather a culinary language built through layers, designed to break away from strictly local culinary conventions with careful study and expertise. Also noteworthy is the work on fermentation, such as koji made from field-grown barley, miso, garum, and soy sauce—all produced using locally sourced and home-grown ingredients. An approach that further reinforces the restaurant’s identity as envisioned by Marc. The dessert menu, meanwhile, is entrusted to the brilliant pastry chef Kay Baumgardt, who follows an equally precise philosophy. The absence of white sugar is not a sacrifice, but a deliberate choice aimed at enhancing the natural sweetness of the ingredients. The desserts are crafted with technique and creativity, often incorporating plant-based culinary elements such as black garlic or cauliflower.
The overall MaMesa experience extends far beyond the plate. The ambiance plays a fundamental role, and at the simple round tables, the lighting is meticulously designed, shifting in intensity and color throughout the evening. An intimate, elegant space that envelops you. The wine list features about 500 labels and takes you on a journey through South Tyrol and the world, with a special focus on German Rieslings and the great wines of the Moselle, as well as local gems like Haderburg and Arunda, home to Europe’s highest vineyard. The idea of time standing still amidst the aesthetic pleasure of a stay makes the Burgusio-Weisses Kratz and MaMesa complex a destination in its own right. A Val Venosta that speaks of community and language, family and hospitality.
Contacts
Weisses Kreuz
Burgeis 82, 39024 Burgusio, Malles Venosta Italia
Website
