Capitolo Riviera: The “100% Local” 5-Star Hotel, from the Vegetable Garden to the Flavors of Genoa by Giovanni Astolfoni

by:
Leonardo Samarelli
|
copertina capitolo riviera

A hotel where nature and design harmonize with the local landscape: located in the residential neighborhood of Nervi, this luxury property reflects the local identity through the Liquido Bar and the Botanico restaurant, which pay homage to the Ligurian coast and its hinterland.

The hotel

The Ligurian sea and cliffs on one side, lush greenery and towering mountains on the other. The train tracks cut this splendid landscape in two, and once you step off the train, the natural beauty of Nervi—a residential neighborhood on the eastern side of Genoa—stands out before you. Here, a group of Genoese entrepreneurs decided to invest in luxury hospitality, and in July 2024, they opened Capitolo Riviera.

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Rising from the ashes of a historic hotel, the property has preserved certain structural elements—such as the reinforced concrete—to create a 37-room facility that harmonizes with the surrounding nature and is dedicated to sustainability. Minimal use of plastic, rainwater harvesting, and energy-efficient management complement other sustainable initiatives at this five-star property (part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World network), which draws inspiration from the Ligurian region to tell its story. Thus, the focus is on a predominantly local staff and nearby food and wine producers and artisans, not to mention the furnishings and choice of materials such as wood, clay, and resin flooring. The mission? To create a park with a hotel—not the other way around—and to sacrifice the superfluous in favor of local culture and identity.

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The Culinary Offering

One of Capitolo Riviera’s goals is to create a luxury establishment in step with the times, making it accessible to non-residents as well. An alternative to the classic establishments—both hotels and restaurants—that dominate the Nervi area and its surroundings. A statement of intent that becomes reality when, walking along the street, you notice the unrestricted access to the outdoor terrace, a geographical starting point that heralds the first dining venue, the Liquido Bar.

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Open year-round, this is the place to get a taste of the hotel’s philosophy: tapas, a drink menu, wines, and a simple menu designed for lunch and dinner. Given the region, the trofie with pesto is a must-try, as is the hand-chopped tartare of Cabannina beef (a native breed). To stay connected to the local area, the signature cocktails reflect the Ligurian coast, including the Salmarino, a twist on the Negroni featuring basil- and lemon-infused vermouth, Sarvaego amaro, and olive oil gin. Past the Liquido Bar, you enter the world of Botanico, a gourmet restaurant led by Genoese chef Giovanni Astolfoni. The chef returned to Italy to take the helm at Glam by Enrico Bartolini after many years of experience in Australia between 2014 and 2022. He was then recruited by Capitolo Riviera, embracing his roots once again; for this reason, his menus are filled with tributes to Liguria, its sea, and its mountains, featuring days dedicated to foraging and a garden in front of the restaurant where he personally cultivates more than 35 herbs.

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The cuisine at Botanico Restaurant

Even in the main dining room, you can sense the attention to design and natural materials that set the hotel apart. And just as at Liquido, the atmosphere seeks to pamper guests with elegance. Starting with the open kitchen, where Astolfoni’s team hand-rolls pasta daily, reinterprets regional recipes such as Cappon Magro in a contemporary style, and uses exclusively local ingredients sourced through a network of producers the chef has cultivated since the restaurant’s opening. Giovanni Astolfoni’s philosophy can thus be summed up as a harmonious blend of Liguria, innovation, and creativity, where comforting dishes sometimes give way to daring recipes with bold flavors. Take, for example, Scallops, lard, celery, and green apple, an appetizer in which the double-cooked scallop meets the freshness of green apple and celery, with a lingering finish provided by the spiciness of the 'nduja.

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A dish that quickly became a signature dish is the risotto with nettles, Santa Margherita shrimp, and Savona chinotto, while those wishing to appreciate the chef’s mastery of fresh pasta will find the spaghetti alla chitarra with cashew butter, mussels, and veal bottarga particularly appealing. A bold dish where the richness of the cashews is balanced by the shellfish and the savory flavor of the bottarga, grated at the table.

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Smoked cuttlefish, cardoncello mushrooms, and cuttlefish ink sauce once again demonstrate Astolfoni’s desire to focus on “bold” flavors; in this case, the excellent tempura made from the less noble parts of the cuttlefish and the earthy texture of the mushrooms are key to giving the dish a masterful depth. Among the desserts, Achrome—tonka bean panna cotta, acacia sorbet, stracciatella, and fried capers—perfectly embodies the chef’s culinary philosophy: diverse balances on the plate, bold flavor nuances, and ingredients elevated by skillful technique and international experience.

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Capitolo Riviera

Viale Delle Palme, 16A, 16167 Genova

https://capitoloriviera.com/it/


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