Chosen by Joan Roca as a signature recipe for the book “Signature Dishes” by author Amélie Vincent, this creation is the ultimate proof of the conceptual mastery that has made the Catalan restaurant a gourmet legend.
The dish and the philosophy
In the pantheon of fine dining, there are dishes that challenge perception and overturn every belief: El Celler de Can Roca's “Terroir and Oysters” rightfully falls into this category. It is a daring alchemy, a sigh of distilled summer rain placed on a pearl from the sea. Created in 2006, it is considered one of the most iconic dishes of the three brothers and restaurateurs. It is a radical and poetic tribute to Catalan tradition, capable of combining elements of the soil and the waves with disarming purity. The conceptual soul of the dish lies in petrichor, that unmistakable scent that thirsty earth releases when it is wet by the first drops of rain after a long period of drought. The goal? “To trap the aroma of petrichor in a distilled version of the soil,” reveals Joan Roca.
To achieve this experiential feat, the team uses the Rotaval, a low-temperature distiller invented by the brothers in collaboration with the Fundación Alicia. The instrument allows distillation in the absence of air, ensuring an aromatic extract of unparalleled purity, clarity, and conciseness. The result is a distillate that “offers an unprecedented earthy sensation, a magnificent delicacy that combines with the oceanic sensation of the oyster.” The extract, thickened with xanthan gum, is delicately placed on a fresh oyster. The mollusk, a key ingredient in the cuisine of El Celler, thus becomes the intro to an experience that overcomes the obstacle of a “calm sea” in tasting, enlivening the bite.
The Recipe: Soil and Oysters
Ingredients
FOR THE OYSTERS
4 oysters
FOR THE SOIL DISTILLATE
- 300 g soil
- 500 g water
- 0.2 g xanthan gum
- salt
Preparation
Open the oysters and remove them from their shells without damaging them. Remove the beard with a small knife and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
Mix the soil and water, cover the container, and leave to infuse for 12 hours in the refrigerator.
Start by introducing the infusion into the evaporation flask, making sure that a 0.22 μm sterilizing membrane filter is placed between the flask and the outlet leading to the cooler.
Distill the soil at temperatures between 30 and 35 °C for 1-2 hours.
Finish the process by maintaining the distillation at 40–45 °C for another 30 minutes. Once distillation is complete, extract the distillate and immediately seal it in a vacuum bag to preserve its aroma.
For prolonged storage, which can last for days or weeks, it is recommended to freeze the distillate.
