At Torrazza Coste, an experience that smells of the sea and citrus fruits without ever losing the identity of the territory.
When a Michelin-starred restaurant decides to relocate, it is never just a matter of logistics. It is a statement of intent, a choice of sides, the beginning of a new narrative. Villa Naj, which brought with it from Stradella to Torrazza Coste not only pots and glasses (we are in Oltrepò Pavese), but above all its soul, its staff, and its Michelin star, has chosen to write a new chapter in its history in a place that perfectly reflects its evolution: Cascina Riccagioia.
The location: agriculture and haute cuisine come together
And so it found its new home at Cascina Riccagioia, Torrazza Coste, and there could not have been a more fitting choice. Since 2002, it has been the headquarters of the Ersaf Center (Regional Agency for Agriculture and Forestry Services), a hub for agricultural innovation in Lombardy. Here, where research, sustainability, and tradition coexist, the restaurant headed by chef Dario Fisichella has found its natural habitat.
In this strategic hub of hillside agriculture, which is also home to the Consorzio Tutela Vini Doc (Consortium for the Protection of DOC Wines), Villa Naj is part of a broader project to promote the area. The partnership with Rurall, which will build a high-tech greenhouse to grow herbs and vegetables for direct supply to the restaurant, finally closes the virtuous circle “from field to table.” However, a vegetable garden that supplies the kitchen is already in operation, and the production of the restaurant's own flour is also planned.
With Dario Fisichella, the South finds a home in Oltrepò
It is impossible not to immediately recognize the Sicilian touch of Dario Fisichella, who brings the light and precision of the South to this land of braised meats and cheeses. A native of Catania, trained by some of the greats (Felix Lo Basso above all), he has created a solid and delicious menu here, clear and personal, which smells of the sea and citrus fruits without ever slipping into exoticism. You can sense it right from the welcome, with those corn tacos and horse tartare that dialogue with the faux tomato parmigiana, in a play of contrasts that works perfectly. The grilled parmesan and chanterelle tartlet, together with the mozzarella bonbon in carrozza, already show the stylistic signature: solid technique, clear flavors, and careful presentation without frills. An immediate carousel of technique and lightness that reveals a steady hand and measured imagination.
The menu
Then the vegetable garden takes over: gazpacho made with green apple, celery, green tomato, kiwi, and cucumber. This is not a dish, mind you. It is the first pairing beverage, non-alcoholic, proposed by sommelier Luca Giuliano Salvigni, accompanying variations of tomato (green, camone, cuore di bue, grilled yellow, confit stuffed with ricotta cheese, sponge and tomato water granita) to recount an entire garden in a few bites. This is followed by gobbetto shrimp with Pantelleria salad and slightly spicy shrimp bread/ice cream, served with a 2011 Florio Marsala Vergine, and the sumptuous risotto with water and almond milk, creamed with citrus butter, squid ink, and Parmesan cheese, a base of Genoese-style squid ragù, and a disc of toasted almonds, perfect with Paltrinieri's Lambrusco Radice.
The progression rises in tone with fusilli tossed in butter and thyme with garum, risotto with mate extract, yellowtail tartare, lemongrass sauce, candied citron, caviar, and black lemon powder, accompanied by a sumptuous 1998 Contini Vernaccia di Oristano.
The highlight is the pigeon in three courses:
- breast with fig chutney and supreme sauce
- leg in a crust of ciuciulena (black and white sesame seeds)
- cocoa and fig tartlet with liver, delicious, rich and spectacular.
All paired with a Probus 276 red from Serbia.
To conclude, Greta Campione, a very young pastry chef, creates a dessert of surprising maturity: peach, hazelnut, and dark chocolate — cocoa tartlet, custard flan, hazelnut cream, red spheres of peach marinated in hibiscus tea, peach juice served with peach sorbet and lemon gel. And how can we not mention a cult dessert from Villa Naj: the Sicilian breakfast. Try to imagine what it is.
The wines (and more) of Luca Giuliano Salvigni - a traveler's menu
Forget the famous labels and names that everyone knows. Luca Giuliano Salvigni's wine list is a personal journey of research and passion. His travels translate into a selection that favors artisan producers, with a preference for oxidative wines that reveal a particular sensitivity.
And then, as is only right, there is a strong focus on sparkling wines, given the restaurant's particular geographical location. Starting with the welcome glass, a Pas Dosé made from 100% Pinot Noir from Zuffada.
The green apple, celery, green tomato, kiwi, and cucumber gazpacho paired with tomato variations is just the beginning of a journey that will amaze you. The Lambrusco Radice di Paltrinieri with risotto, the Vernaccia di Oristano 1998 Contini, and even the Probus 276 from Serbia with pigeon: there is truly a personal touch. The pairings with juices and kombucha—such as the “mint-crazy” one with Greta's dessert—demonstrate a modern vision of pairing that goes beyond wine, exploring new territories with intelligent curiosity.
A team that just clicks
What is most striking about Villa Naj is the feeling that you are dealing with a team that really works. The owners have had the intelligence to place their trust in their professionals, giving each of them the freedom to express themselves in their own field without interference. In a restaurant segment where margins are increasingly tight and the temptation to control everything is strong, this choice of mutual trust proves to be a winning one. Everyone has their own space, and the end result is harmonious. That's how it should be.
A new era for Oltrepò
It is the beginning of a new era for haute cuisine in Oltrepò Pavese. In a region that already has its own established attractions, this combination of haute cuisine and agricultural research is not out of place: it complements, enriches, and offers new perspectives. When Dario Fisichella talks about “a beautiful project,” it is clear that behind it there is a vision that goes beyond a single dish, beyond a single dinner. It is proof that Italian cuisine can evolve without losing its soul, that it can look to the future while maintaining its identity. A beautiful story that deserves to be told, and above all experienced, in a place where every bite will taste of the land that produced it.
CONTACTS
Villa Naj
Via Riccagioia, 48, 27050 Torrazza Coste PV
Phone: 0383 77365
