Chef Recipes

How Mugaritz turned French toast into one of the world’s most delicious desserts: Aduriz’s torrija

by:
La Redazione
|
copertina torrija aduriz

The traditional dessert of the Iberian Lent is transformed into a gourmet creation, enriched with rum-infused almond cream.

Photo: J. L. López De Zubiria

The Dessert

Torrija is a true institution of Iberian cuisine, originally created to use up stale bread and traditionally served during Lent. To get to the heart of the recipe, we could even call it “the Spanish cousin” of French toast, although it is richer and “creamier”. It is usually prepared at home by soaking slices of bread in milk (or wine) flavored with cinnamon and lemon zest, dipping them in egg, and frying them in plenty of oil. The traditional topping? Honey or a generous “sprinkling” of sugar and cinnamon.

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The idea of not skimping on portions, after all, goes way back: as early as the 15th century, this delicious fried bread was considered an ideal energy-boosting food for new mothers during their recovery.The secret to a perfect torrija lies entirely in the balance between a golden crust and an almost melt-in-the-mouth interior. Yet, despite being the quintessential homemade dessert, someone decided to transform it into a masterpiece of haute cuisine. Who else but Andoni Luis Aduriz?

The Mugaritz Recipe

This contemporary version stems from an exceptional legacy: it was the French master Michel Guérard who paved the way, later perfected by Andoni Luis Aduriz. It is not just bread and eggs; it is an architecture of homemade brioche, caressed by an almond cream and ennobled by the deep notes of Ron Zacapa 23, the Guatemalan spirit that embodies the art of anticipation. The essence of the dish lies in the evocative power that only the great classics can unleash.

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As Aduriz himself explains: “The taste of torrijas can evoke memories in many of us, taking us back to our childhood. It awakens our memories and creates a social, cultural, and familial bond through a flavor that can only be developed through years of cultural learning and the evolution of our palate.” Preparing the Mugaritz torrija is also an invitation to slow down. A ritual of patience where the rising, steeping, and final caramelization require the time that perfection demands.

The Recipe: Rum-Caramelized Torrija

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Detailed Information

Servings

6 people

Difficulty

Medium / Advanced

Resting Time

About 5–7 hours (total)

Ingredients

For the brioche (base)

  • 250 g flour
  • 3 eggs
  • 190 g butter
  • 25 g sugar
  • 10 g yeast (fresh or sourdough starter)
  • 5 g salt

For the Rum Almond Cream

  • 125 g almond flour
  • 125 g butter
  • 150 g pastry cream (see below)
  • 1 egg + 1 egg yolk
  • 1 cl Ron Zacapa 23

For the Custard (base for the almond cream)

  • 25 cl milk
  • 60 g egg yolk
  • 40 g sugar
  • 25 g refined cornstarch
  • 25 g butter

For the infusion bath

  • 500 ml milk
  • 500 ml cream
  • 3 large eggs
  • 110 g sugar
  • 1 vanilla bean

Finishing

  • Butter and sugar for caramelizing
  • Vanilla or milk ice cream

Method

1. The brioche

In a stand mixer, combine the flour, eggs, yeast, sugar, and salt. Knead for 10 minutes until the dough is elastic. Gradually add the butter until it is completely absorbed.

Proofing: 30 minutes at room temperature, then 3–4 hours in the refrigerator.

Shaping: Shape as desired and let rise at 25–30°C for another 3 hours.

Baking: Bake at 180°C for 15–20 minutes. Let cool completely.

2. The custard

Bring 150 ml of milk to a boil. In a separate bowl, mix the cornstarch, sugar, and remaining milk. Combine the two mixtures and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Stir in the beaten egg yolks, mix well, and remove from heat. When the temperature drops to 60°C, stir in the cubed butter and let cool in the refrigerator.

3. The almond cream

Beat the butter with a whisk until creamy. Fold in the almond flour, eggs, custard, and Ron Zacapa 23. Keep refrigerated.

4. The infusion

Mix the milk, cream, eggs, sugar, and seeds from the vanilla bean. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve for a silky texture.

5. Assembly and Caramelization

Soaking: Cut the brioche into thick slices (about 60 g each). Soak them in the mixture for 2 hours.

Browning: Drain the slices and brown them in a pan with butter and sugar until golden and crispy.

Finishing: Place the slices in the oven for a few minutes to warm the center. Spread one side with the almond cream and caramelize with sugar using a kitchen torch.

Presentation

Serve the torrija piping hot, accompanied by a quenelle of vanilla ice cream to play with the temperature contrasts. A glass of Ron Zacapa 23 on the side will complete the experience, as recommended by the chef.

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