A well-defined line, from Conversano to the countryside of Polignano a Mare. The new Pashà takes a chance and tells the story of the countryside.
A move that feels like a rebirth. Last July, Pashà left its historic location in Conversano and moved to Masseria Mancini, nestled in the countryside of Polignano a Mare. This was not just a simple change of address, but a profound transformation: from a fine dining restaurant to an integrated hospitality experience, where cuisine and accommodation interact with the Apulian countryside.
A refined country restaurant
The furnishings were transported almost in their entirety from the old location, starting with the red armchairs that have always been a distinctive feature of Pashà. These have been complemented by new details that evoke the countryside: outdoor sofas, a Bedouin tent that provides shelter from the hottest hours of the day, and white wrought iron chairs in the style of an Italian garden. The main dining room has been redesigned with large windows opening onto the garden and the open wine cellar with its imperial table. Around it shine 1050 labels, chosen with the usual care by Antonello Magistà and Sommelier and Floor Manager Rossana Minunni.
The cuisine, entrusted to young Executive Chef Michele Spadaro, is a tribute to the region and rural traditions, with hints of the sea reflecting its proximity to the coast. There are two tasting menus: classic and contemporary, both available for lunch and dinner (but only at weekends). The menu celebrates Puglia in its entirety, with local products sourced from small local suppliers. Ruote pasta with fava beans and chicory, gnummariddi, and handmade burnt wheat orecchiette by Maria Cicorella become symbols of a cuisine that does not forget its roots but knows how to renew them with elegance.
The opening words – “Ode to the tomato” – already reveal the style: Apulian gazpacho with three native tomatoes and Barattiere watermelon; ice cream served as if it were bruschetta; tomato tartare on puffed meringue smoked over a brazier with beech wood and aromatic herbs. A play on textures that culminates in focaccia from Bari, a hymn to the warmth of the earth. Then oysters with gin and tonic and lemon and basil ice cream; mussels with goat's yogurt and oregano; amberjack with sour sauce and green beans. First the earth, then the sea; first fire, then water. Finally, dishes of memory such as sheep's chop cooked in a pignata, accompanied by vegetables and a surprising vegetable cappuccino. To finish, burnt honey with chamomile and pollen anticipates the fig and almond dessert created by the talented Pastry Chef Valentina Lenoci.
Spadaro speaks modestly about himself: “I don't consider myself talented, I'm just a guy with a lot of enthusiasm.” Yet his touch is recognizable in the deep flavor of the sauces, in the balance between delicacy and intensity, but also in his respect for the products that the Apulian countryside generously provides. A young and talented chef, he arrived at Pashà six years ago, after his first experiences in Marina di Ragusa and Modica, his native land. Today, he retains the same enthusiasm he had when he started and perhaps, on reflection, even a little more: he enjoys the two wood-fired ovens, the vegetable garden “under construction,” and the microcosm that is slowly coming to life and in which he longs to live.
The residence and rooms
If the restaurant is the beating heart of the new Pashà, the residence is its soul. Masseria Mancini, an 18th-century building nestled among the centuries-old olive trees of Contrada Torre Catena, is now a refuge of rare beauty. Here, traditional architecture blends with essential and refined design, striking a perfect balance between authenticity and contemporary comfort. The property offers two master bedrooms and four standard rooms—one of which is a quadruple—all with attention to detail, designed to welcome travelers seeking an immersive experience of Apulian culture. The large stone vaults, wooden furnishings, private terraces, and elegant details make the master bedrooms truly welcoming havens. Completing the offer is a 150-seat conference room, a lounge bar with a fireplace, and a garden that invites you to linger in the shade of thick pine trees.
The welcome is tailor-made and in line with the vision of Antonello Magistà, who for years dreamed of a place where catering and hospitality could merge into a single project. And perhaps this was precisely what he was missing, something that reflected his elegant and understated way of welcoming guests. Antonello's bicycle left in the shade of the centuries-old olive tree, leaning against its trunk cracked by time, the main door of the estate in powder blue, the large windows overlooking the garden. Everything contributes to the refined residence of the new Pashà.
Breakfast: an Apulian ritual
In the morning, the restaurant kitchen is transformed into a laboratory of sweetness and rural authenticity. Despite the comings and goings of many foreign tourists, there is no trace (by choice) of the typical international breakfast, but rather an authentically Apulian breakfast: warm bread and focaccia from Bari, fresh ricotta and figs, fruit tarts, tartlets, tette delle monache (a type of pastry), cream puffs, and yogurt. There is no shortage of savory treats, such as vegetable quiches or small vegetarian sandwiches, reminding us that the line between sweet and savory in Apulia is always a fine one.
Bread, leavened products, and focaccia—prepared daily in the two wood-fired ovens in the new kitchen—are the true hallmark of breakfast, expressing Michele Spadaro's passion for long rising times and the heat of the oven. “I love making leavened products,” he says, “and I believe that over time our bread basket will become increasingly rich.” Breakfast thus becomes an integral part of the project, embracing the principles of authenticity and the promotion of local ingredients.
New developments and a look to the future
Summing up the last few years and the many changes that have affected him, Magistà says: "It was a dream I had had for years. Moving to the countryside and combining the now well-established Pashà restaurant with the world of hospitality was something that had been buzzing around my head. And then, it must be said, there was immediately a great understanding with the owners of Masseria Mancini, so much so that the move took place well ahead of schedule." What is clear, however, is that the new Pashà is not just a restaurant with rooms, but rather a bastion of food and wine culture immersed in nature. Furthermore, from next winter, the offering will be expanded with a hammam and a swimming pool, while a photovoltaic system will make the farm self-sufficient in terms of energy, in line with the philosophy of sustainability that permeates every choice. An internal vegetable garden is already in the works, which will allow the kitchen to draw directly on the fruits of the countryside, even for desserts, and thus do its shopping directly at home.
The result is a place for travel and rest. A new chapter for fine dining which, with a touch of daring, breaks away from the image that relegates it to the past and re-emerges as a crossroads between land and sea, between gentle awakenings in the countryside and authentic cuisine at sunset.
CONTACTS:
Contrada Torre Catena, 872 – Polignano a Mare
info@ristorantepasha.com
Phone 373 8002809
