Palazzo Tirso is home to the elegant Terra, the hub of contemporary Sardinian cuisine in the fine dining sector. Alessio Signorino, who trained for many years at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, is in charge of the kitchen, while the dining room is run by a team of skilled and passionate young staff. The menu? There's so much to discover: here's a taste.
Cagliari is a city of undiscovered beauty, suspended between the sea and the hills, crisscrossed by ups and downs and bathed in a special light reflected from the gulf. Its charm is discreet, that of a quiet and peaceful place that has long remained off the international tourist circuit, except as a stopover on the way to the island's most famous seaside resorts. Today, however, the Sardinian capital is experiencing a new season, as can be seen from its growing dynamism, but also from an increasing number of high-end hotels. In fact, there are not many five-star hotels, only two at the moment: the newest of these is Palazzo Tirso, owned by the Puddu family and affiliated with Accor's MGallery collection.
The hotel
The large building that houses the hotel overlooks the marina and has a unique history. Built in 1926 as the headquarters of the Sardinian electricity company, it immediately became a symbol of modernity because it was from here that the energy used to light the whole island originated. The name itself refers to the dam on the Tirso River, a project inaugurated a hundred years ago and celebrated last year at Palazzo Tirso with a photographic exhibition. After the nationalization of the sector, the building was home to banking institutions until its current restoration by the Puddu family, who transformed it into a refined hotel, also described in a book edited by Armando Bruno with the eloquent title: Palazzo Tirso, l'instancabile recupero (Palazzo Tirso, the tireless restoration).
Today, the building houses 85 rooms and suites, ranging from superior to presidential, all characterized by bright, linear spaces equipped with details that speak of contemporary comfort, such as Bluetooth speakers, a treat for music lovers. The interiors, designed by Marco Piva's Milanese studio, combine rigor and warmth, with spacious and welcoming common areas. The difference, however, is made by the people. At a time when the hotel industry is struggling to find solid professionalism, there is a different energy here: helpfulness, smiles, and constant care are the hallmarks of the service, as emphasized by general manager Daniele Bassetti, originally from Umbria but now deeply attached to Sardinia.
Dining
A hotel like this, with an international outlook, cannot fail to offer a gastronomic experience to match. Palazzo Tirso is home to two complementary souls. Upstairs, on the panoramic terrace with swimming pool, Cielo welcomes guests in an informal atmosphere: it is the ideal bistro for an aperitif, a light lunch, or a simple but well-constructed dinner, where local tradition meets more international offerings. On the first floor, next to the lobby, is the elegant Terra, a fine dining restaurant and the true heart of the gastronomic project.
The executive chef of the establishment is Federico Sanna, but Terra is personally managed by Alessio Signorino, born in 1987, who discovered his culinary vocation after studying at a scientific high school. Perhaps a little later than his colleagues, but he quickly caught up, distinguishing himself from the very first course at Forte Village. From there, he embarked on an intense journey: with Stefano Deidda at Corsaro, in various restaurants in London, in Milan with Matias Perdomo at Pont de Ferr and with Carlo Cracco, when Matteo Baronetto was still part of the team.
Short stints at Geranium in Copenhagen enriched his professional experience, but his longest and most formative period was at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence with Riccardo Monco and Alessandro Della Tommasina. It was here that he developed his rapport with Valerio Fermani, now his sous chef and right-hand man.
In the dining room, the helm is entrusted to skilled and passionate young people. Michele Cuccu, Restaurant Manager and F&B Manager, coordinates a cohesive team, while Andrea Catgiu, maître d' and sommelier, takes careful care of the wine list. The beverage menu is rounded off with well-balanced cocktails and mocktails and a wide range of pairing options: from Entroterra, focusing on Sardinian wines, to La Penisola che non ti aspetti, both available in three or five glass options. For those who want to go further, there is World luxury experience, up to €100, or Non solo vino, which explores alternative beverages.
The dishes
As for the menus, the choice is equally wide and starts from a menu, although Terra d'Estate, offered at $100 for seven courses, or Radici nella Terra at $70, are two tasting menus that are worth choosing to explore Signorino's rich gastronomic universe. Everything stems from the idea of contemporary Sardinian cuisine, starting with snacks such as spirulina seaweed meringue with butter and bottarga spheres, delicious fried bread stuffed with mussels marinara, and sweet and sour marinated daikon ravioli; to finish, a fun watermelon bloody mary. There is no shortage of bread, expertly made from sourdough, both with Sardinian and Sicilian semolina and mixed seeds; the hand-stretched breadsticks are also excellent.
Among the appetizers, the Mediterranean-style amberjack is noteworthy, marinated in salt balanced with herbs from the scrubland and served with yogurt, elderflower jelly, and sea herbs. This dish is paired with Global, a cocktail made with spirulina vodka, rosemary syrup, and blue chamomile liqueur, served with rice chips and rosemary and yuzu gel. It is inspired by the color of the sea, with a message that refers to its fragility and the constant threat of pollution, symbolized by the rice chips.
The blue lobster with gioddu sauce, carapigna, and juniper is excellent, paired with an elegant sparkling Cannonau di Capo Ferrato, aged for 24 months on the lees. The soft-boiled egg, red onion, and seaweed, with a side dish of chawanmushi with soy-marinated egg yolk and katsuobushi sauce, with oriental flavors, is paired with Fauledda - Benetutti (Dessena), an Arvisionadu vinified in steel to maintain the authenticity of the ancient grape variety. Also very good is the babà in Sardinian tomato sauce, with basil and sheep's milk mozzarella mousse.
The excellent artisan fregula risotto, with red pepper extract, celery leaf sauce, and pine nut milk, is enhanced by Nero Miniera Rosé – Sulcis (Enrico Esu), an ungrafted Carignano that has its roots in the sulfurous beaches and tells the story of the winemaker's passion and mining origins. The rabbit tortelli alla cacciatora with bread, thyme sauce, and caper leaves in vinegar are extremely tasty.
Among the main courses, the morone fish with green gazpacho and pepper infusion is excellent, served with tomatoes stuffed with tomato sauce and a tartlet with morone fish scraps, green tomatoes, and fermented lemon. It is accompanied by Karamare – Cannonau bianco, a rare island wine, this beautiful white Cannonau vinified with maceration on the skins.
The succulent grilled duck with spicy peach ketchup and glazed eggplant is accompanied by a side dish of spelt crepe with duck leg stew, tamarind, and marinated peaches. The accompanying wine is Vike Vike “Ghirada Fittiloghe” – Mamoiada, a surprising Cannonau with significant body and structure, but with a beautiful freshness and a light tannic texture that make it unique in its type.
Melon with pink pepper sorbet and pollen leaves your mouth clean and fresh. The meal ends with Lemon and capers, a small work of art with caper daquoise, lemon and caper curd, lemon namelaka, lemon shortbread, caper sorbet, and fried capers. To conclude the final pampering, with Sardinian amaretto and herbal chocolate.
CONTACTS
Terra a Palazzo Tirso
Piazza Deffenu, 4, 09125 Cagliari, Italia
Phone: 351 315 0260
