In Clusone, in the historic village of Val Seriana, Collina Luxury Relais combines five-star hospitality with fine dining by chefs Caterina Vosti and Dario Gaiti. A philosophy that intertwines roots, technique, and directness to enhance the territory and guests.
The Seriana Valley, in the province of Bergamo, nestled in the Orobic Prealps, is the ideal destination for those who love medieval villages, tranquility, and unspoiled nature with woods, waterfalls, and magnificent landscapes. While the Upper Seriana Valley is the best place for mountain hiking, in the pre-Alpine hills, beyond the plain, lies the beautiful historic village of Clusone, capital of the mountain community, also known as the ‘painted town’ for its frescoes. It is also worth stopping here to admire the planetary clock made in 1583 by Pietro Fanzago in the central square. Here, the family of Dario Gaiti, executive chef together with his partner Caterina Vosti, has created Collina Luxury Relais, an elegant five-star property comprising a dozen accommodations, including five independent chalets, each with a private veranda and hot tub, four junior suites, two signature suites suitable for families, and a splendid rooftop suite with a large panoramic terrace, private Jacuzzi, and solarium area. Also very beautiful is the large spa with wellness area and heated indoor and outdoor geothermal pools, accessible all year round. Dario explains: "The idea for this hotel came from my family to revive tourism in the valley, which had been thriving until the 1990s but then declined somewhat due to second homes. In addition, there is a lack of accommodation facilities, so the idea was to become a ‘driving force’ to get it going again. Then, of course, as well as wanting to do something for the area, there was also a personal motivation, given that my family comes from a completely different sector, namely precision engineering."
The project
The sensibly ambitious project is complemented by an impressive culinary offering, supported by this young couple (she was born in 1991, he in 1993), who coordinate the food and beverage offering at the Bar l'Americano and Beides Restaurant: “Beides means ‘both’ in German, and the name is meant to convey that there isn't just one chef, but both of us, creating an even more family-like atmosphere.”
Both chefs' training is important. Caterina, who is Swiss, began her training in her home country with several seasons in St. Moritz, Kulm, and Ascona, Al Castello del Sole in Ascona, and then in Lugano at Villa Principe Leopoldo (where she met Dario). She then moved to London, and thanks to Andreas Caminada and the Fundaziun Uccelin, she went to New York to work at Daniel Humm's Eleven Madison Park. Back in Europe, she first went to Frankfurt to work at Villa Kennedy with Fulvio Pierangelini as food director and then became Executive Chef at the Hotel Eden Roc of the Tschuggen Group in Ascona.
Dario also has an impressive resume: "I was born and raised in this valley, but I wanted to gain experience in high-end establishments, so I left right away and two days after my exams, I got on a plane and went to Sardinia for my first season. Then I stopped here in the Bergamo area and at the Principe Leopoldo, where I met Caterina. After a brief experience in Trentino, I joined Caterina in Frankfurt at Villa Kennedy: it was challenging and formative, Caterina was the executive chef and I was her sous chef in a hotel with 180 rooms. There was a lot of pressure, the previous chef had left out of the blue, the team was reduced to a bare minimum, but in a year we managed to revive and give identity to a restaurant that was supposed to be Italian but had nothing Italian about it. Pierangelini didn't say much, but I think we made him happy, because he still writes to us." As for working as a couple, something they have been used to for years, Caterina tells us: "We get on very well, the important thing is to switch off and not talk about work at home. We complement each other very well. I take care of the ‘cold’ cuisine, appetizers, and vegetarian dishes, while he does meat, fish, and first courses.“ Dario continues: ”We combine our ideas. I mumble all day long, while she is very communicative with customers and enjoys going out more. For me, being in the kitchen is a joy. I don't like being in an office: being a chef means using your hands."
The spirit with which they tackle the catering of this little oasis of beauty is pragmatic: "being a hotel, you have to have more strings to your bow and keep an eye on those staying in. We are very open, we talk to our customers and always try to satisfy them: the other night I prepared sea bass in salt, something I hadn't done in years. At Beides, we have a fine dining approach, but if someone wants a nice ribeye steak, we'll make it for them. I don't like the ego of chefs who impose what to eat; you have to be open, we have our ideas but we can't force them on anyone. I like guests to sit down and feel satisfied, there's no way you should have to listen to a 15-minute explanation to understand a dish. Then, as Dario Ranza, my mentor in Lugano, taught me, adding two powders and making a foam is science, you just have to study. But first you have to know how to cook, you have to have the basics. And if you have the basics, you can build any kind of cuisine, experiment, even be avant-garde, but you have to know how to make a well-creamed risotto."
The dishes
Caterina and Dario's dishes live up to their words, a philosophy based on techniques learned and then put at the service of taste and immediacy. We start with an excellent amberjack ceviche with fennel panna cotta, leche de tigre foam and yuzu: the fish is delicately marinated and accompanied by the softness of the panna cotta, with a kick from the tangy leche de tigre foam and the freshness of the yuzu. The savory brioche with giant Bergamasca sheep, yogurt, wild herbs, and pickled onion is mouthwatering: in this case, a symbol of tradition becomes street food, with remarkable results, which the chefs describe as “our version of kebab.” The Vialone Nano risotto creamed with sour butter, snails from the Tramonti Blu farm, fresh parsley, and black garlic is a successful combination of creaminess and intensity, with the precious aromatic note of black garlic.
The spaghetti from the Mancini pasta factory was cooked to perfection with mussels and Branzi cheese, one of the oldest and most typical cheeses of the Orobie Alps, a delightful combination of sea and mountains. The homemade seitan with flour from the Mulino di Cerete mill, salad and coconut milk sauce, tarragon and kefir lime was also a success: completely vegetarian, it is a very fresh dish. The Carabinero shrimp with lacto-fermented carrots, carrot ketchup, and baby carrots is delicious, a dish that explores the different expressions of a vegetable that is too often relegated to a supporting role. The pink pigeon breast with apricots, its leg stuffed with giblets, and a brioche with its marinated filet is succulent. The meal ends on a mildly sweet note with thin pineapple ravioli with mango and a cream inspired by traditional Indian lassi and made with natural alpine yogurt.
CONTACTS
Collina Luxury Relais
Collina Verde, 2 24023 Clusone (BG)
Phone +39 0346 39511
