The new Spanish gastronomic revolution is not so much measured in sophisticated techniques as in the ability to downsize. No more large structures, but human, sustainable projects that become lifestyles as well as restaurants. In this scenario, Asturias is a fertile laboratory: small establishments that make their roots in the territory and light management their strong point.
A story born from a standstill
It is in this context that Alenda takes shape, a small house in Castiello de Selorio, just outside Villaviciosa, as reported by La Vanguardia. Here, after their experience at El Retiro de Pancar, Lola Palacio and Iñaki Gómez found the space and time to imagine a project of their own. The pandemic accelerated their desire for a slower pace of life and direct contact with the vegetable garden and the Cantabrian coast. The result is a restaurant run by two people: Iñaki alone in the kitchen and Lola in the dining room, in a balance that conveys authenticity.
Contemporary vegetarian cuisine
The menu speaks the language of the region but with a new voice. The starter is a creamy, milky ham croquette and a ninyoyaki of Tres Leches de Pría cheese with quince cream and basil from the garden. Then come the dishes that define Alenda's identity: seaweed panna cotta with fermented strawberries and mustard ice cream, white asparagus with fig leaf emulsion and elderflower, squid tagliolini with onion stock and yeast emulsion. A cuisine in which vegetables are not a side dish but the protagonist, in constant dialogue with the sea.
The sea next to the land
The merluza del pincho from Lastres with pilpil sauce, sea lettuce, and tear peas perfectly encapsulates this vision: recognizable dishes enriched with details that make them contemporary. Flame-grilled sardines with roasted eggplant and tomato broth confirm the link with the vegetable world, while the Asturian beef filet with cauliflower parmentier and beet ketchup closes the savory part, balancing comfort and freshness.
The final dessert
The same philosophy is found in the desserts. The sheep's milk curd with garden strawberries and elderflower snow is refreshing and surprising, while the more classic coffee, chocolate, and toffee dessert appeals to those with a sweet tooth. However, the common thread is always present: cuisine that remains rooted in the garden and the surrounding landscape.
A new generation of chefs
Alenda is a good example of the new generation of Asturian chefs: aware of the social and economic context, capable of transforming tradition without turning it into a museum piece. Lola brings warmth and storytelling to the dining room, while Iñaki—just over thirty—creates a precise and personal cuisine. Together, they show how small can become big.
