Sleep in the ancient spiritual retreats of the Capuchin friars, meditate over a second helping of century-old cannelloni, and savor a gin that blends monastic wisdom with modern mixology: all this happens in a 13th-century former convent converted into a 5-star hotel, where chef Claudio Lanuto recreates the coastal mosaic on two tables in perfect harmony.
"At first, this was nothing more than an inaccessible cave, completely unaware of its destiny. And even after the construction of a convent carved into the rock 80 meters above the Amalfi Sea, human presence remained literally clinging to the ecosystem, so much so that, according to legend, donkeys passed through the door before people did. They were the ones who carried food, tools, and visitors up a sun-scorched slope. Since then, many things have changed, but what you are admiring is the same natural fresco from centuries ago: a landscape ready to flood your eyes with a mixture of intensity and tranquility. You cannot compare it to anything you have seen before." Listening to him speak, Fra' Marcus seems to bring peace to your thoughts, breaking down the wall between eras with his words. And with equal skill, he opens a gastronomic passageway in the narrative flow.
“It was 1924 when the sacred sound of bells announced something very different from the time of Mass: the cook of the religious structure - already used as a hotel under the aegis of the Vozzi family - had just patented the recipe for cannelloni, challenging a colleague working at the nearby Hotel Luna with fresh pasta sheets and tomato sauce.” It seems that this is not just a tasty anecdote, but an essential part of our local culture: with the duel won and the recipe acquired, the stuffed cylinder immediately gained a large following. Today, that former 13th-century monastery is a 5-star hotel bearing the name Anantara, and the original dish is prepared with the same zeal as a scribe—and every time the ritual is repeated, a time machine is automatically activated for anyone who tastes it while gazing at the rocky giants of the cliff.
However, the stronghold carved out of stone 800 years ago has not rested on its ascetic charms. In fact, the current executive chef, Claudio Lanuto, offers a “pleasantly heretical” cannelloni made with potatoes, scampi, and provola cheese, capable of revamping the basic “red dress” model. What's more, there are two restaurants, with a portfolio of experiences that ranges from pizza tasting to live grilling, gliding straight into fine dining.
And if you feel like a gin at the end, you can try one that follows the botanical formula of the Capuchin Friars using advanced modern mixology techniques: Marcus himself will guide you through the tasting during a unique “Amaro Experience.” For the rest, history continues to flow like a continuous ribbon in each of the 52 rooms and suites converted from dormitory cells, which overlook the cloister or the stretch of harbor shaded by the transparency of the water; an animated postcard designed to smooth the ridges of the spurs with comfort delicately suspended over the past.
Anantara Convento Amalfi: from a cave to an international 5-star hotel
Once you cross the threshold of Anantara Convento Amalfi, the staff will be able to explain much better than us how many phases the building went through in its early days, transforming its artistic heritage into a luxury hotel. However, a brief introduction is necessary: the sign originated from the aforementioned cave with the adjoining Church of San Pietro, called “terra vacua” (empty land) in reference to a future that was yet to be built. The Capuchin friars settled there in 1583 and lived there in alternating cycles until it was transformed into a guesthouse by the Vozzi family.
At first, patrons reached their destination by following a winding muletrack through the scrubland that covers the ups and downs of the promontory (spoiler alert for the intrepid: except for the period in which we are writing—due to renovation—the road has remained passable and you can explore it during your stay). However, it is easy to imagine how it has been replaced by a speedy system of lifts in sequence, which will quickly take you to the lobby and the terrace with the best walkway in the village overlooking the waves.
Yes, because the former belvedere of the friars—far from losing its ethereal meditative charm—must be crossed, leaving your bags at the entrance and the stress of the city behind you: before you lies a cascade of vegetable gardens (you will find the first fruits in the chef's creations), pergolas, wild herbs, and centuries-old trees, complete with labels to identify the species at a glance.
It is difficult to reconcile the divine with the earthly, yet the stops scattered between balconies and vegetation blend into the backdrop without any temporal jumps: there is the swimming pool located in a secluded corner that multiplies the reflections of the marine screensaver; the 24-hour gym, raised to isolate both the gymnast on duty and those who prefer relaxation as their only summer sport; the cocktail bar, where the drinks replicate the biological mosaic of the coast thanks to inserts of sfusato lemon and tomato.
Inside, the spatial simplicity transcends into the elegance of an enveloping line, from the recently renovated portal in Corten steel to the use of leather, wood, and fibers in a clear mimesis with the landscape, passing through the wide arches and reassuring “southern” nuances. A must-see after check-in is the Baroque church, where you can admire the altar and majolica tiles, carefully preserved from wear and tear, before retreating to the Arab-Norman cloister dating back to 1223. The latter is a true architectural melting pot, home to the oldest fresco in Amalfi, which has impressed figures such as Richard Wagner and Salvatore Quasimodo. Linking places of memory and Mediterranean boulevards is the character of a chef who forges new classics, shaping the entire restaurant's cuisine.
The chef and the menu at Ristorante Dei Cappuccini
His first job at just 14 years old, decisive stints with Anthony Genovese and Antonio Mellino, and an initiation into international gastronomy with Heston Blumenthal: Claudio Lanuto's résumé is a sincere distillation of background and identity, which at Anantara means knowing exactly when to press the “inventiveness button” (and vice versa).
This is demonstrated by a straightforward menu that nevertheless tends to easily delve into the single-ingredient trend, even if it means using the same product in several courses in a row. Take, for example, the tomato, which at Cappuccini (the hotel's gourmet restaurant, ed.) tumbles down the surrounding terraces, encompassing much of Campania's biodiversity. As soon as you sit down, you will feel its “sunny” warmth as you bite into the Panino con pesto di pomodori secchi e passata classica, a small “marinara-style” welcome snack to be spread with voluptuous buffalo butter whipped with dried dill from the garden.
A true attack followed closely by a hint of nobility, because suddenly the pulp transforms into a fine tomato caviar compacted by agar agar, jeweling the smoked red snapper tartare served among the starters. And so the red gold of Naples reappears everywhere—in the bed of cubes at the base, in the form of mayonnaise, and in the shape of a crunchy biscuit to give the dish a satisfying crunch.
But the subject reaches its peak in one of the hotel's signature dishes, alongside cannelloni: Spaghetti dedicated to King Umberto Fiascone. “It is a very rare variety grown in Tramonti, notable for its roundness and gentle acidity,” explains the excellent F&B Manager Angelo Cirella, creator of a service that satisfies curiosity as well as appetite. “The result is a naturally colored pasta, cooked in tomato water to absorb its aromas rather than its color.” Tomato powder and basil seeds are used to finish the dish, along with a coulis that enhances the vegetable flavor. Alongside, the side dish revives the Tuscan use of the customary “pappa al pomodoro,” accompanied by a sponge cake, also vermilion in color, with which to mop up every last drop and leave no waste. “It's our way of saying that a simple spaghetti dish can trigger a regional crossover,” comments chef Lanuto—and the tingling of the taste buds confirms it!
The Risotto with basil pesto, pizzaiola sauce emulsion and buffalo kefir is flecked with tricolour inserts and dotted with raw red prawns, “a fixture on the menu for two years now due to popular demand”. A first course that perfectly balances richness, acidity, and freshness, which alternate gradually, tempting you to finish a generous portion. The second course offers a relaxing break, thanks to a comforting sea bass with grated black truffle from Irpinia, potato millefeuille, purple potato chips, and buffalo ricotta.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, dessert turns the tables, magically dispelling any sense of fullness: the pleasant and balanced Carrot and Lemon, in which Bavarian cream, gel, and carrot cake meet a salted ice cream that avoids the risk of a typically sugary finish. The “Limoncello Experience” drink option adds extra points, a vertical tasting of digestifs made on site using precious convent recipes.
La Locanda della Canonica
Of the same “pasta,” although with a more refined offering, is the Locanda della Canonica, where the catch of the day splashes across the menu in a handful of lines, from octopus and potatoes and lobster salad to mazzancolle and grilled tuna. The “core” of the restaurant, needless to say, lies in the dishes prepared in front of diners, among which Domenico Trotta's Neapolitan pizza deserves a special mention. “The dough is made from a biga starter left to ferment for 24 hours, followed by an additional 16 hours of controlled leavening.”
The goal? “Crispy edges and airy inside, so we work on a pleasant thickness (never extreme, ed.), such as to contrast the melt-in-the-mouth center of the disc.” To bring out the character of the grain, Domenico also uses numerous types of ancient grains (primarily spelt and einkorn), which are particularly fragrant in the ancestral “Pizza del Convento.” Imagine a slice with lively notes of toasted wheat, intertwined with the fleshiness of fresh tuna and the citrus zest of Amalfi Sfusato lemons. Delve into the lingering trail of olive powder and suddenly you will literally be biting into a piece of the Amalfi Coast. Finally, don't miss the Re Fiascone in the interpretation of the Margherita with buffalo mozzarella and Neapolitan basil cream. For pasta addicts, there is always a Spaghetto alle vongole with a succulent sauce, or the hearty Pacchero all'astice.
The suites and experiences
With restored frescoes on the ceiling, columns of the cloister visible from the window, and a sitting room filled with paintings, design magazines, and chic sofas, the Priore Suite could not blend its monastic origins with the understated luxury of a long-established hotel more harmoniously. Thus, the “Anantara style” travels from one room to another, sometimes reshaping the spaces of the former refectory, sometimes the quiet retreats of hermits overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, in an uninterrupted flashback that continues to write history.
Once you emerge from your cocoon of rest, treat yourself to half a day at the spa, enjoying citrus oil treatments and yoga sessions, but don't forget to linger at the cocktail bar for an (equally) intensive session of Gin Tasting. The distillate reproduced by Fra' Marcus and bar manager Luigi Gallo—as we mentioned at the beginning—will be a real revelation for fine drinking enthusiasts, given the presence of very few elements that make up a changing bouquet, which changes unexpectedly as the temperature varies. “When summer is over, we even drink it warm, in front of a brazier in the cloister, and it never ceases to amaze us with its expressive undertones that stand out from the crowd.” A good excuse to come back in winter!
CONTACTS
Anantara Convento Amalfi
Via Annunziatella, 46, 84011 Amalfi SA
Phone: 089 873 6711
