“I understand that some restaurants require formal attire, but I don't understand why children are ‘unwelcome,’” said the renowned chef in an interview with La Cucina Italiana. “And besides, I can assure you that I've encountered many adults who are much more annoying than children.”
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There is a debate that periodically resurfaces and stirs things up like a tablecloth flapping in the wind: that of children in restaurants. And every time, the script is surprisingly similar. A sign posted at the entrance, an exasperated restaurant owner, parents accused of not paying attention, and a flurry of comments from those calling for child-free sanctuaries and those defending the right of children to sit at the table with adults. The latest spark? A restaurant in Bologna that has “advised” against allowing young children to enter due to lack of space and patience. Nothing we haven't already read or heard, yet it was enough to spark the usual heated exchanges between commentators. Amidst all this background noise, however, there are those who, instead of raising barriers, have chosen to set the table for inclusion. One above all? Alessandro Borghese, interviewed here on the subject by Fabiana Salsi of La Cucina Italiana.
Chef, entrepreneur, and father of two girls—Arizona and Alexandra—Borghese is one of those rare examples where hospitality is not an abstract concept but an everyday ingredient. His restaurants, “AB – Il lusso della semplicità” (AB – The luxury of simplicity), in Milan and Venice, are also designed to welcome families with children. And this is not an accessory detail: it is a conscious choice, a project, a commitment. “Children should be welcomed and it doesn't take much effort,” he says in the interview. "When my wife, my team and I designed our restaurants, we did so with a high-end environment in mind, but one that would be suitable for everyone. The spaces are organized to ensure different experiences, there is a menu designed especially for children, kits with colors and placemats to play with ‘Chef Boy,’ my cartoon version, and restrooms equipped with mini-toilets and changing tables. It's a small thing, but it makes a big difference."
According to Borghese, the key is attention to detail. This attention is not only aesthetic but also functional: everything serves to create an experience where every customer, of every age, feels valued. Starting with the table layout: “If a couple books to celebrate their anniversary, we don't seat them next to a table with children. These are logistical considerations that make the experience more enjoyable for everyone.” Yet the resistance of many fellow restaurateurs persists. Some say that children are disruptive, others fear that they occupy ‘less profitable’ seats, while others simply do not want to deal with unpredictable situations. But Borghese calls for a change of perspective: 'Children are customers in every sense of the word. If a parent knows they can take their children to a place where they feel welcome, they will come back. And that's also an economic advantage. A happy child makes his parents happy too.“ Of course, it's not all the responsibility of restaurant owners. As is often the case, the problem is cultural and collective. ”We parents have to do our part. Children need to understand that every environment has its own rules, and it is up to us to explain them to them.“ But in addition to education, there is another ingredient that seems to be lacking in certain environments: tolerance. ”Children are children. The problem is that some adults forget what it was like to be a child. And I can assure you that I have met many adults who are more annoying than young customers," he adds.
The law, on the other hand, is clear: children cannot be denied access, just as they cannot be discriminated against on the basis of age. Yet there are still those who ignore or circumvent the law by posting “advice” that is very close to a ban. "I think many restaurant owners are not even aware that this rule exists. In some cases, I share the desire to maintain a certain dress code, but not the rejection of children. In fact, perhaps I should address this issue in the next edition of 4 Ristoranti. I'll think about it." After all, if children become loyal customers when they are young, they are more likely to remain attached to the dining experience when they grow up. In the end, as in a good recipe, balance is needed: between rules and flexibility, between education and hospitality. But above all, there needs to be a willingness to make room—both physical and mental—for even the youngest guests. Because if a restaurant is truly a meeting place, then it must be so for everyone.
