Summer in Versilia is heating up, and with it, the usual wave of debates about prices that enliven the most exclusive seaside resorts. This year, the topic of discussion is not sky-high beach umbrellas or crazy prices for seafood dinners, but a small, unexpected tax: 50 cents for a teaspoon of ice cream.
The news
Controversy erupted in Forte dei Marmi, at the well-known ice cream parlor “La Chicca,” after the introduction of a sign, now removed, that charged a fee for tasting. The initiative, although withdrawn following a scathing review on Google that labeled it a “scam,” has reignited the spotlight on a widespread and, for many, indispensable practice: tasting before making a final choice. Federica Fortini and Massimiliano Amaducci, the owners of “La Chicca,” defended their decision, explaining that it was an extreme measure to curb the increasingly widespread habit of some customers asking for numerous samples without then making a purchase.
“We were forced to do this to discourage those who want to try a thousand different types of product,” Federica Fortini told Il Gusto, emphasizing that the problem was mainly linked to foreign tourists who, in a demanding tone, requested multiple tastings, even of “classics” known to everyone. The issue, say the owners, is not about indecisive customers, but the abuse of a practice that becomes a form of rude demand: “We don't want to penalize those who don't know an ingredient or want to discover something new. In these cases, we are happy to let them try the ice cream.” The cost of multiple tastings, combined with the slowing down of service at peak times (and therefore also linked to logistical reasons), prompted the couple to take this decision, which has now been revised.
Without the controversial sign, La Chicca's policy subsequently shifted towards a more diplomatic but firm approach: a single taste was granted to customers who were less polite in their requests. On the other hand, the owners point out that they have always adopted a “pop” pricing policy in the Versilia area (two flavors of gelato cost €2.50), thus highlighting the exaggeration of the controversy surrounding the extra charge.
A bitter debate for “traditionalist” ice cream makers
While “La Chicca” defends its position, the community of historic ice cream makers is divided. Many colleagues turn up their noses at the “tasting tax,” reiterating the importance of offering free and courteous service. Some say they are “happy to explain and recount the history and characteristics of each flavor,” while others even “invite customers to taste the flavors, especially the new ones, completely free of charge.” Of course, it is necessary to distinguish between different situations on a case-by-case basis, as well as the type of activity, location, and tourist context in which it takes place.
Not just ice cream: when trying something costs you
The Forte dei Marmi story isn't the only one. The cost of trying out a product has already sparked debate in other industries. Just think about 2023, also in Forte dei Marmi, when a shoe store put up a sign that said, "Want to try on some shoes? Pay $20," a deterrent against those who tried on shoes in the store and then bought them online. Similarly, in 2019, in Mirandola, the owner of a sports shop asked a young woman who had tried on several pairs of sneakers without buying them to pay $10. The debate remains open: how much is it fair to charge for a product “test”? And where does the retailer's common sense end and the customer's entitlement begin? The Forte dei Marmi ice cream story, despite its simplicity, is part of a wider debate on the balance between operating costs, customer service, and changing consumer habits in the digital age.
