Where to Eat Around the World Italian Abroad

In Barcelona, the Colombo twins make waves: the Milanese duo behind three successful pop restaurants

by:
Silvia Morstabilini
|
copertina gemelli colombo

Max and Stefano Colombo, twins from Milan born in 1976, are now two essential names on the Barcelona gastronomic scene. For twenty years in the Catalan capital, they have revolutionized the Poble Sec neighborhood—once a neglected area of the city—making it a reference point for foodies and wine lovers. Their formula? Authentic Italian cuisine, attention to the product, affordable prices, and an informal but impeccable style.

Xemei and Bar Brutal: the first two stars of the triangle

Their first restaurant, Xemei, is a tribute to Venetian cuisine: dishes such as spaghetti with clams or sarde in saor have become city icons. Then came Bar Brutal, one of the first restaurants in the world to focus radically on natural wine. Today, it is a real mecca for hipsters, chefs, celebrities, and enthusiasts. So much so that the Colombos decided to open a shop dedicated exclusively to merchandising for the bar, requested by customers from all over the world.

Max Stefano Colombo 1 2
 

The Super Bar: the latest addition (by chance)

The third creation of the Colombo brothers is the Super Bar, which opened a few months ago. Born almost by chance—Stefano was looking for a warehouse—the restaurant turned out to be a gem. Large windows, high ceilings, a long counter, and wooden tables create an atmosphere reminiscent of Brooklyn restaurants. The warm, modern design is now a distinctive feature of the Colombo “signature.”

Seasonal produce and affordable prices

Overlooking the Santa Caterina Market, Super works extensively with fresh, seasonal produce. “If we get some spectacular red mullet, we put it on the menu instead of mackerel,” says Stefano to Spanish newspaper El País. Among the highlights: amberjack tataki with parsley broth (€18), butifarra with calçot (€12), tempura zucchini flowers (€15), grilled pancetta (€12) and millefeuille with Chantilly cream (€7). All under €18: a rarity in Barcelona. The average bill is around €30 per person.

xemei
@Xemei
bar brutal
@Bar Brutal

A monumental wine cellar (shared)

Another strong point is the wine list. There are over 300 labels on the list, but in reality there are more than 2,000, thanks to the cellar shared with Bar Brutal. There is a wide selection of natural wines and rare bottles, often impossible to find in restaurants without stars or awards. “Il Super follows the same philosophy as Brutal: to bring out extraordinary bottles in an increasingly crowded market,” explains Stefano.

A diverse clientele and community spirit

One of the most fascinating things about Super is the diversity of its clientele: “You can find an 80-year-old lady with blue hair, skateboarders, lawyers, the market butcher, or a chef curious to try something new.” Lunch and dinner are almost like two different restaurants. And the staff is also involved: the Colombes offer the opportunity to buy shares in the company to become members. “It's a sincere way to strengthen the bond and share the project.”

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The future? Less frenzy, more quality

When asked about the future, Stefano responds sincerely: "I want to slow down, focus on Super and take things more calmly. The restaurant business drains you, and it's time it started giving something back.“ And the name ”Super Bar“? It all started as a joke: ”With the market next door and the idea of offering ‘super’ food and wine, we came up with the idea of a ‘super market’... and in the end, we just kept ‘Super’," smiles Stefano.

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