The West African cuisine restaurant Chishuru in Fitzrovia, London, owned by chef Adejoké (Joké) Bakare, has earned a Michelin star in record time. A major milestone for women and the gastronomic culture of her country, making waves in England.
Cover photo: @Harriet Langford
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Located in London but offering dishes inspired by the gastronomic culture of West Africa, the restaurant Chishuru has just been awarded a Michelin star, marking a historic moment for the chef and owner, Adejoké (Joké) Bakare, who now celebrates the milestone of being the first black female Michelin star chef in the United Kingdom (and only the second worldwide).
Joké originally opened Chishuru as a pop-up in Brixton in September 2020 and quickly gained popularity thanks to Jay Rayner (a well-known British critic long associated with The Guardian), who described her menu as "full of warmth, vigour, and flavour." It's no surprise, therefore, that the restaurant transitioned into a permanent establishment in September 2023.
Less than six months after opening its permanent location, Chishuru is one of the most talked-about restaurants in London. The Michelin Guide states that it has helped shed light on African cuisine, significantly enhancing the culinary offerings of the UK. The verdict on the food? "The dishes are delicious, satisfying, and rich in flavour, characterized by a skillful selection of spices, and the sauces are a strongpoint, whether it's scotch bonnet with ekuru or caramelized onion and lemon with guinea fowl yassa. All accompanied by friendly service and a fun atmosphere," reads the Guide's website. Moreover, Joké was named among the "100 Most Influential Women in Hospitality" by Code in 2022, selected as "Innovator of the Year" at the GQ Food & Drink Awards 2022, and voted "Chef to Watch" at the National Restaurant Awards 2023.
Joké and her team aim to offer authentic cuisine deeply rooted in the customs of African populations, with flavor combinations that will make you want to come back for more. The dishes are reasonably priced: for lunch, for example, you'll spend between £35 and £40 per person, thanks to a reduced fixed-price menu that caters to workers' needs.
The lunch menu includes dishes such as crispy fermented rice cake with smoked mushrooms (below) or creamy and light corn cake with coconut, date sauce, and tamarind. For dessert, you can enjoy a heavenly fonio ice cream (a West African cereal with a slightly hazelnut-like flavor) with carob custard, peanut praline, and crispy coconut.
In the evening, the restaurant offers only a tasting menu, more elaborate and ambitious, costing £75 per person. However, this is much less than most starred restaurants in the city. As for beverages, the chef assures: "Our wine list consists exclusively of small French producers. We have a short list of cocktails that we conceive and create personally, using West African ingredients where possible, and we also offer non-alcoholic cocktails, soft drinks, and beer."
