At Roland, Carlo Alberto d’Audino hosted a dinner dedicated to the sea with a special guest: Gianfranco Pascucci. The two chefs took turns at the restaurant's stoves, located within the walls of Palazzo Brancaccio, presenting a six-course menu featuring creative twists and Southern inspirations.
The event
For almost two years, there has been a gourmet haven in Rome within one of the city's most significant locations: Palazzo Brancaccio. This 19th-century building adorned with artworks, precious sculptures, and a hedonistic garden serves as the backdrop for Roland, the restaurant on the first floor representing the gastronomic expression of Spazio Field—an artistic hub hosting numerous artists throughout the season. The project was created by Roman entrepreneur Andrea Azzarone.
The establishment, located in a room adorned with marble and splendid frescoed ceilings, has entrusted its culinary offering to Carlo Alberto d’Audino since its opening. He is a chef of Calabrian origins (with Sicilian heritage in his blood), basing his identity on the simplicity and recognizability of excellent raw materials. He stands as an ambassador of the flavors of Calabria and seafood specialties.
When it comes to the sea, the first chef that comes to mind is Gianfranco Pascucci, whose Michelin-starred restaurant, Da Pascucci al Porticciolo, initiated the transformation of Fiumicino. It is now considered one of the best places to eat fish in the province of the Capital and its surroundings.
Both chefs, deeply connected to their territories and the products derived from them, showcased their expertise in a four-hands dinner within the walls of Roland. They presented an exclusive menu with intense marine notes.
«We chose dishes that created a connection between our culinary ideas and engaged in a dialogue with each other – comments Carlo Alberto d’Audino – except for the appetizer, where I offered a vegetarian alternative, "the memory of a pickled artichoke," to balance the initial acidity of Gianfranco's first two courses».
The artichoke, besides recalling Sicily, is also a tribute to the strong bond d’Audino has with his host city, recreating the typical Romanesco flower spice mix in a velvety and seductive cream. It's a challenging operation after Pascucci's explosive start with the taste of Amberjack Sashimi in ceviche, celery, and caviar, a trio of ingredients that rhyme with elegance.
The tasting experience elevates with one of Pascucci's most famous creations, "Mare di Plastica" (Plastic’s Sea): a 360-degree work on cuttlefish that not only demonstrates the chef's infinite knowledge of the sea but also conveys a message of protest against plastic—recreated in the dish with a transparent film made from a sheet of starch typically used in Japanese cuisine—that pollutes our waters.
D’Audino concludes the first courses with the Raviolo filled with potatoes and mint, rosemary, saffron, and mussels, synthesizing in a dish his identity as a Southern chef. «Here, I used rosemary, a sardine made by a lady from Isola di Capo Rizzuto: the idea is always to represent the territory where I grew up and create a connection with the restaurant that hosts me. So, I wanted to include in the recipes a reference to the beauty and art of this magnificent place».
This ideology is also found in the last course based on Breaded Swordfish, reduced fish soup, and spinach. «I must say that working with Gianfranco was inspiring; as a chef, I always say that one never stops learning. Then, to confront myself with a sea cuisine icon, is unparalleled».
The tasting successfully achieved the goal of creating synergies with the sea and its variations, accompanied by wines with the characteristic savory notes from the emerging Sardinian winery Cantina Canu, featuring the eclectic Deispanta - Vermentino di Gallura DOCG Superiore - and the lively variations of Cannonau Bibi – Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato DOC – and Porteddu - Cannonau di Sardegna DOC.
Paired with dessert—the Variation of hazelnuts and lemon, reminiscent of a sorbet made by Pascucci—is the d’Alesio Moscato IGT from Menhir Salento, an Apulian label that never disappoints.
