In the paradise of the Amalfi Coast, for 40 years, a family has been carrying on the work of gastronomy with dedication, attention, and experience: Antonio Mellino and his son Fabrizio are preserving the essence of flavors in Nerano.
The restaurant
Words fail to capture the essence of certain places, and even the most artful and mesmerizing prose cannot adequately describe the warmth and sensations felt when exploring them. There are places where one must remember to do just one thing to preserve them intact and unspoiled: do nothing, absolutely nothing.
Any slight movement, any attempt to adorn would risk compromising a harmony that has been woven for centuries, unraveling a poetic knot braided between land, sea, and sky that has always inspired poets, novelists, painters, directors, and musicians. We are talking about the Amalfi Coast, and in particular, that extreme corner of the coast just before reaching the magical Punta Campanella, in front of Capri: the enchanting Nerano bay.
This is the place where the coastline displays its untouched, unblemished, and pure beauty. It is here that the scent of lemons, jasmine, sea, and flowers of a thousand colors mingles with the fragrance of the sea and the beauty of vegetables from sun-kissed Mediterranean gardens. It is here that the fishermen of the coast fill their nets with every delicacy that the sea blesses us with. And here, in this paradise, for many years now (for forty years to be exact, as we are currently celebrating with a special menu), a family has dedicated themselves with devotion, attention, and expertise to the world of cuisine: the Mellino family of Quattro Passi Restaurant in Nerano.
Forty years ago, Antonio Mellino gave up "his seasonal work on cruise ships" (as they say) and arrived on the coast with his future wife, Rita, deciding to open a restaurant where there was nothing before, except for the olive trees, in Nerano. His touch and managerial skills immediately stood out, and soon "Quattro Passi" became one of the references for Italian haute cuisine in Campania. Now it is his son, Fabrizio, who continues the culinary work after training here in Nerano with his father, Antonio, and then in renowned restaurants in Italy and abroad, including prestigious French, Spanish, and Japanese kitchens.
And it is Fabrizio who welcomes us on a beautiful sunny day on the shady terrace of the recently renovated restaurant, now more modern but still retaining its original charm, including the new, large open kitchens on the ground floor. The table is located in a beautiful corner, providing us with the opportunity to witness the graceful movements of the waitstaff in the expansive restaurant hall, while also savoring the breathtaking view of Punta Campanella. Equally captivating are the dishes featured on the "forty-year" menu.
The dishes
We start with "my garden": squid flower, scampi tartare, Oscietra caviar, and green apple water. A crisp, delicate, and tasteful beginning that is neither overpowering nor intrusive, delivering a wonderful sensation both visually and on the palate. Then, Royal crab "Merus," marinated whitebait, and pink grapefruit. Here, contrasts come into play: the crab is sweet, the grapefruit is bitter, the whitebait is fresh and light, and the crab is savory and umami.
Crispy shrimp with tangy marinated sauce, finger lime, and mint: A reference upon reference, brought into the present with a contemporary twist on historical ingredients and techniques.
Linguine alla Nerano, perhaps the most famous dish of the Amalfi Coast, prepared here with spaghetti instead of the classic linguine, with zucchini, basil, and black pepper.
Mezze Maniche pasta, amberjack and pine nuts butter... It's a shame there were only three: given the deliciousness, even a whole plate would have been too little.
The "Gnocco," resembling the Sorrento-style, is perhaps the first one that comes closest (in appearance) to the traditional preparation.
Among the main courses, sea bass in sorrel and lemon sauce: in this case, remarkable purity, a straightforward and crisp flavor, deserving of applause.
Finally, before desserts, S.Croce del Sannio red rooster, pizza sauce, and vegetable ravioli. Delicious and once again rich and flavorful without being heavy. The Mellinos' skill lies in elevating the raw ingredients.
They present dishes with a traditional appearance that undergo refined techniques and combinations, continuously and innovatively enhancing the ingredients. Thank you, Quattro Passi. Thank you, Nerano. This corner of paradise is always a delightful place to return to, and we will be back again soon.
Address
Ristorante Quattro Passi
Via Amerigo Vespucci, 13N, 80061 Massa Lubrense NA
