Despite climbing more than thirty positions on the list, Quique Dacosta does not spare criticism for the world rankings: they would not count for individual placements, but in geopolitical terms. And overall, Spanish talent would be lacking by the dozens.
The opinion
Much controversy, much honor. Since its inception, the outcries have not been spared on the World’s 50 Best List, a survey of insiders that can effectively decree the life, death, and miracles of a restaurant as a providential antagonist to the MICHELIN Guide. Today it’s Quique Dacosta’s turn, who placed 42nd on the list with his eponymous Three-Star restaurant in Denia. Unique in the entire Valencian Community. In fact, it amounts to a leap of more than thirty positions for what the chef calls the "restaurante de las alegrias."
His comment is articulate and anything but emotional. "In the past I thought that appearing in these rankings was the epicenter of my career. Although I consider myself young, I am one of the oldest locals in my field. I have held every position possible during my journey in all kinds of rankings. Being featured in the World's 50 Best Restaurants and other prestigious rankings is a gift, but I personally am in no hurry or feel pressure. I am a kitchen worker and I have achieved anything and everything in terms of recognition over a thirty-five-year career."
"These rankings are a true measurement of what is going on in the world, without a regard to the position of the individual restaurant. A continental thermometer that reflects what is happening in individual countries. The best are included on the list, regardless of placement, but it continues to be incomprehensible to me that so many outstanding Spanish talents are not included. If I made the list, there would be at least another 35, but I don't want to name others. Valencian cuisine, for example, is currently one of the most interesting in the world: a real, powerful, diverse, and interesting movement. It lives on the legacy of an extraordinary recipe collection, endowed with a personality all its own. Those who go to the Community can enjoy both haute cuisine and popular cuisine."
"For me, this is an even more precious recognition after three nightmarish years for the industry. What makes me proud is to represent my territory and my country. Today Denia is appearing in all the gastronomic media; to be in the Worlds 50 Best means valuing the territory with its culinary identity, redeeming the fishermen, ranchers and merchants of the marina area. Just to give an example, we have calculated the cab expenditure of our clients and it amounts to 19 thousand euros alone."
Source: 7 Canibales
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Cover photo: Credits Mandarin Oriental
