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Borgo San Felice: From 2 Michelin Keys to Bartolini’s Table. Stelios Sakalis Surprises at Poggio Rosso

by:
Marco Colognese
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COPERTINA POGGIO ROSSO

The Chianti Classico region of Siena needs no further introduction: it is certainly worth experiencing in all its beauty, amid the silence, vineyards, and olive groves; and Borgo San Felice is a perfect example of refined hospitality nestled in a little paradise.

The Relais

The spirit of the medieval village has been preserved intact, simply by repurposing the buildings and transforming this enchanted place into one of the most captivating examples of our country’s finest hospitality. Five stars, two Michelin Keys, part of the Relais & Châteaux network, this sprawling village owned by the Allianz Group consists of 63 rooms scattered throughout the buildings of the ancient village.

BSF 550vintage Experience
 

There’s a swimming pool, a beautifully maintained spa, tennis courts, and two standalone villas. Luxury here is embodied by absolute tranquility and the discretion that only certain places—and the people who bring them to life—can convey. With a forward-thinking vision for the future of hospitality, and taking into account the unique charm of each season, it was decided to extend the opening season through January 10, 2027: for the first time, guests will be able to spend Christmas and New Year’s Eve at Borgo San Felice.

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It’s important to remember that this destination is also one of Italy’s most important wine resorts. In fact, its wine-making operations span the three major Tuscan appellations, with the estates of San Felice in Chianti Classico, Campogiovanni in Montalcino, and Bell'Aja in Bolgheri: together, the three estates cover 685 hectares, of which 188 are planted with vines and 60 with olive groves.

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As Achille Di Carlo, the manager who has returned to lead the property after previously managing it from 2010 to 2015, states: “For me, San Felice is a unique place in the Italian hospitality scene, where exceptional hospitality is intertwined with world-class winemaking. Guests stay in an intact early-medieval village, amid quiet alleyways and views that open onto the vineyards, where time slows down and every detail is designed to make room for tranquility and beauty. My goal is to highlight this extraordinary combination, helping to develop an increasingly integrated vision in which hospitality and winemaking excellence merge into a single authentic and distinctive experience for our guests.”

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The dining experience, which sets the bar very high, is also a key element of the resort. Alongside this is a connection to the local community that goes beyond mere clichés and is brought to life through significant initiatives involving both young people with disabilities and local seniors—such as “L’Orto” and “L’Aia Felice,” projects of the Allianz UMANA MENTE Foundation—which supply the kitchen with vegetables, fruit, honey, and eggs.

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The Dining Experience

While Osteria Il Grigio is all about Tuscan tradition, at Poggio Rosso—a refined gastronomic establishment overseen by Enrico Bartolini, which has held a Michelin star since 2020—Stelios Sakalis has firmly established himself. A Greek native born in 1988, Sakalis grew up with a clear vision of his future. He tells us: “I was eight years old when my father and my uncle asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I replied that I wanted to be a chef.

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There were no TV shows back then, and I didn’t come from a family of restaurateurs, but deep down I already knew. And I think I was very lucky: knowing your path so early on and being able to follow it is an enormous blessing.” In reality, Sakalis’s story is also a love story with Italy: “In Greece, I attended a classical high school, which lasts three years after middle school. It was a compromise I made with my parents so I could become a chef, because I had to develop a general education first and then choose my profession with greater maturity. When I finished my military service, I thought it would be a waste not to learn modern Italian after having studied Latin for so long.

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“I found this school in Siena, the Istituto Dante Alighieri. In the mornings I took Italian language classes, and in the afternoons I took lessons in basic Italian home cooking.” He added: “Italians are probably the most demanding customers there are. But that’s only natural: they have an extraordinary culinary culture and are constantly comparing what they eat to their family meals.” He gained his first experiences in his home country with Ettore Botrini; then he entered the world of Gordon Ramsay, in Italy at Castel Monastero and with stints at the Restaurant Gordon Ramsay on Royal Hospital Road alongside Clare Smyth, then at Maze and Pétrus; followed by his time at the Trianon Palace in Versailles with Simone Zanoni, leading up to the six years he spent at Castello di Spaltenna.

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Sakalis is now even more confident: “I feel like I’m focusing less on the ‘wow factor’ I used to seek. I don’t want to impress with presentations and concepts, but with flavor, ingredients, and techniques that respect both animal and plant-based foods. From my perspective, this makes me feel more mature in what I do.” Fundamental to this journey has been his relationship with Enrico Bartolini:At first, when we spoke about the project, I wanted to understand what I was supposed to do. I asked him, ‘Will I have to make dishes you suggest? Will I have to make versions of Mudec’s dishes?’ And he replied, ‘I want to help you bring out the best in yourself. I want to see that.’

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He continues: “Maybe when they tell you that, you can choose to believe it or not. But when, after two seasons, you see it come to fruition—and that’s exactly what happened—to me, that’s greatness. Because he understands the talent of the people he works with. And he nurtures it. And that’s not something to be underestimated. I consider myself very, very lucky in this regard, because he’s given me so much ‘food for thought’” The atmosphere at Poggio Rosso is truly special, as are the dishes through which Sakalis captures its essence—elegant and refined, yet at the same time with a boldness that makes them anything but fleeting stylistic exercises—accompanied, if desired, by a rich selection from an excellent wine list.

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The Dishes

We start with the mouthwatering chicken liver pâté with Sangiovano spices and Certaldo onions, served with San Felice vermouth, which resembles a foie gras escalope but tastes like a true Tuscan crostino. Also remarkable and full of depth is the risotto “with a delicate smoky flavor and hints of the forest floor,” inspired by the classic butter and sage combination and reimagined with a Greek twist.

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Risotto al fumo delicato e sentori di sottobosco Ph Benedetta Bassanelli
 
Capraia prawns with liquid bean salad tarama and olive gelato Ph Benedetta Bassanelli 2
 

In Sakalis’s home country, sage is first and foremost a digestive tea. The rice is cooked in this tea, then finished with grilled butter, a hint of finger lime, and a Chianti mushroom reduction. Also worth trying is trahana, an ancient Greek recipe made by mixing milk and flour and drying the mixture in the sun to provide a substitute during periods when animals weren’t producing milk.

Trahana with Chianti sambuco and chicory coffee Trahana al sambuco del Chianti e caffe di cicoria Ph Benedetta Bassanelli 4
 
Ditali pasta with nettle delicate feta cheese and Caviar Ditali allortica feta delicata e Caviale Ph Benedetta Bassanelli 5
 
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Stelios reimagines it as a contemporary risotto, simmered for a long time in vegetable broth, stirred in with Parmigiano Reggiano, and finished with a Chianti elderflower sour butter, inspired by beurre blanc; a hint of chicory rounds out the dish. Also very good is the crispy red mullet with agretti and cumin-spiced carrots, gently fried at a controlled temperature to preserve its tenderness; the dish is rounded out with agretti, kumquats, cumin, and lightly pickled carrots.

Crispy red mullet with agretti and carrots with cumin Triglia croccante con agretti e carote al cumino Ph Benedetta Bassanelli 7
 

Laura Peri’s pigeon is tender and juicy, first marinated in ras el hanout spices and hay, then cooked French-style. Swiss chard, feta, pine nuts, and Briacacio aged in grape must, along with a sfogliatella filled with pigeon ragù, round out this sumptuous creation.

My pigeon Il mio piccione Ph Benedetta Bassanelli 6
 

The meal ends on a sweet note with Amedei chocolate and oranges served with Sienese panforte ice cream. There are three set menus: Chiantishire (4 courses for 175 euros), Nostos (6 courses for 175 euros), and San Felicità (4 vegetarian courses for 165 euros); you can also choose 2 or 3 à la carte dishes for 125 or 155 euros, respectively. An unforgettable dining experience.

Amedei chocolate with orange and panforte flavoured gelato Cioccolato Amedei e arance con gelato al panforte Senese Ph Benedetta Bassanelli 4
 

Contact Information

Borgo San Felice-Poggio Rosso

Address: Località S. Felice, 53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga SI

Phone: 0577 3964

Website

 

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