A return to the essence of matter through ancestral techniques: from Brace Pura, the new language of fire according to Marcello Trentini.
The Concept
Located in Turin, just a short walk from the Mole Antonelliana, Brace Pura offers a minimalist culinary philosophy, where technique, ingredients, and cooking methods coexist in perfect balance. For 10 years, it has been offering a dining experience centered on grilled meats, establishing itself as a pioneer of the current wave of “fire-themed” restaurants that have sprung up in the city. The vision of Valerio Lo Russo, former founder of Mare Nostrum, a historic Turin seafood restaurant, has recently merged with the expertise of chef Marcello Trentini, a star of Magorabin, which closed in 2025. Trentini’s strong and creative personality has placed greater emphasis on a direct and authentic approach to cooking, where fire takes center stage in enhancing not only meat—including many offal dishes, since the entire animal is used in the kitchen—but also fish, vegetables, and even fruit. Marcello has brought innovation to flavor pairings and an elegant interplay with sauces; his masterful technique has added richness and a new luster to the restaurant’s already well-defined essence.
Brace Pura is not a traditional steakhouse, but a culinary project that seeks to transform the grill into a narrative element, capable of adding depth to flavors and character to dishes. The focus is on ancestral cooking that aims to reveal the essence of the ingredients. Open flame, cooking under ash, smoking with different woods, as well as marinades and fermentation, are the elements behind dishes that are minimalist in appearance yet extremely expressive, featuring intriguing flavor combinations. The ambiance at Brace Pura reflects its identity: modern design, an intimate atmosphere, and industrial touches—but attention is immediately drawn to the open kitchen. No stovetops—everything is prepared using the Josper oven and the charcoal Yakitori grill, with only a Roner used to support certain basic low-temperature cooking methods. The selection of ingredients, needless to say, is guided by a constant pursuit of quality, and the guiding principle is respect for the ingredients: the chef provides support but does not overpower them. It’s a choice to return to the roots, with an approach that eschews fine dining in favor of simplicity.
The Kitchen
The tremendous effort put into the kitchen is evident right from the start, with homemade cured meats, such as coppa di testa cooked directly over hot coals—a way to use every part of the pig—smoked guanciale, and carne salada from Grigio Alpina in the Dolomites. The bread served alongside these dishes is made by one of Turin’s most highly regarded bakers, Enrico Murdocco, using recipes developed specifically for the restaurant and Piacenza flours selected by the chef—a testament to the research that goes into finding small producers and establishments of gastronomic excellence.
There are no first courses on the menu, but carb lovers won’t be disappointed by the “scarpetta”: a potato focaccia charred over an open flame to make it crispy, topped with Italian Wagyu ragù—lightly smoked and then slow-cooked in the traditional style—along with a spoonful of béchamel sauce and grated Parmesan. It’s so comforting it feels like eating lasagna—a dish that evokes emotion, translating the chef’s childhood memories into taste sensations that each of us can rediscover in our own personal vocabulary of flavors. After all, who hasn’t dipped bread into Grandma’s ragù at least once (but probably countless times) while waiting to sit down at the table? The result is a simple, down-to-earth dish, yet one created with premium, high-quality ingredients—a powerful contrast, even between its rustic presentation and its rich, deep flavor.
Brace Pura is also one of the few restaurants in town (along with its sister restaurants, the aforementioned Mare Nostrum and Oinos) to prepare whole fish, such as tuna, served as tataki with charcoal-grilled artichokes and mint. But as we mentioned, the sauces play a key role in enhancing the dishes, such as the “salsa divertimento” served with the calamari—the chef’s personal take on XO fish sauce, a spicy, umami-rich sauce originally from Hong Kong. XO sauce, they explain, has countless ingredients; it seems simple but actually requires skill, ingenuity, and a deep understanding of the ingredients. “Marcello has an immense breadth of knowledge, both general and culinary. We love his genius,” explain the owners, “he has an idea, and the next day it becomes something else entirely—he’s constantly evolving.” For Silvia Bianco, the restaurant’s feisty sous chef, working alongside Chef Trentini is extremely inspiring: “I learn something new from him every day; he’s taught me to work with almost nothing and to turn even simple ingredients into extraordinary dishes. Marcello is always working—he even sends recipes at night sometimes. His commanding presence spurs me on to grow.”
As for the meat selection, it ranges from ribeye (sourced from Ireland, Spain, and Piedmont), some of which has been aged for quite a long time, to asado with an oriental twist served with pak choi. And for those who love intense flavors, the lamb shoulder—smoked with palo santo and applewood and enhanced with a secret blend of spices—is sensational, further elevated by a pairing with an unusual Cannonau. The mastermind behind the pairings is Andrea Lo Russo, the young son of the restaurant’s founder, who grew up alongside this establishment and now runs it with his mother. He loves what he does—and it shows—and would like to hone his skills through new experiences, including abroad, but ultimately his desire is to return and continue guiding the evolution of this wonderful family business.
The meal concludes in keeping with the restaurant’s overarching theme, with desserts that perfectly embody its philosophy, such as the flambéed apple mille-feuille, a minimalist yet intense dessert with notes of cinnamon and lemon zest. Even the sorbet has its own touch of the grill: seasonal fruit is cooked over high heat and then transformed by the talented team at Aria Gelateria. In a culinary landscape where grilling is now also a trend, for Brace Pura, it continues to be a defining element. It is the beating heart of the restaurant, around which every decision revolves: technique, ingredients, atmosphere, and narrative. But while fire represents the project’s original soul, the arrival of Marcello Trentini and his “brutalist” touch have refined its direction, bringing greater awareness and depth. His cuisine has not distorted Brace Pura’s essence; on the contrary, it has enhanced its vision, making it sharper, more contemporary, and more personal. The result is a restaurant that today successfully blends instinct and precision, striking a balance where every dish seems to emerge directly from the embers and from the desire to explore all their expressive possibilities.
BRACE PURA
Address: Via Roero di Cortanze, 2, 10124 Turin, TO
Phone: 011 860 0124
