Having led Enoteca La Torre Villa Laetitia for the past ten years, Domenico Stile discusses the new menu dedicated to Champagne and the dining room, his connection with Anna Fendi, and the growth of a group that is now one of the most established names in Italian fine dining.
Among Rome’s finest restaurants—those that successfully blend elegance, business acumen, and a distinctive culinary style—Enoteca La Torre Villa Laetitia has firmly established its place. The two-Michelin-star restaurant in the Prati-della Vittoria neighborhood is housed in that splendid Art Nouveau mansion designed by Armando Brasini, now a boutique hotel and the residence of Anna Fendi Venturini. A place that manages to be elegant and aristocratic yet always vibrant and full of life. Here, since 2016, the cuisine speaks with the Mediterranean accent of Domenico Stile, born in Castellammare di Stabia and raised in Gragnano. Born in 1989, he honed his craft alongside masters such as Gianfranco Vissani, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Enrico Crippa, Massimo Bottura, and Nino Di Costanzo, culminating in his American experience at Alinea in Chicago. An impressive journey that, however, never caused him to lose his connection to his homeland, the sea, and a cuisine that is sincere, direct, and accessible.
The restaurant is at the heart of the Enoteca La Torre Group, led by Silvia Sperduti and Michele Pepponi: an enterprise that today spans fine dining to contemporary concepts, and includes one of the industry’s leading catering and events divisions. From Netflix to Chanel, including Google, Lamborghini, the Ryder Cup, and major institutional events, the group has built a strong and recognizable identity over the years. And to celebrate Stile’s ten years in Rome, “Remuage” has been created—the maison’s new tasting experience. A menu named after the rotational movement of Champagne bottles during the aging process, it serves as the perfect metaphor for the constant evolution of Enoteca La Torre. But above all, it is a project that puts the dining room, the gesture, and the continuous dialogue between cuisine and hospitality back at the center.
Chef, let’s start with “Remuage.” How did this new menu come about?
“The name came about almost by chance while talking with the front-of-house staff and Rudy Travagli—Director and the heart and soul of Enoteca La Torre Villa. In Champagne production, ‘remuage’ refers to that slow, constant movement that guides the wine toward its full potential. As soon as I heard that word, I recognized myself in it immediately. That’s who we are. Enoteca La Torre began as a wine shop in Viterbo and has evolved over the years without ever losing its essence. I’ve never been a fan of drastic changes to the menu: I prefer small, continuous, steady adjustments, month after month. It’s a philosophy that truly represents us. And then I wanted to create something that paid tribute to the dining room, because for us it has always been an essential part of the experience.”
Which of the dishes embodies this principle?
The menu is constantly changing but always features eight dishes, which, however, evolve. Right now, for example, there’s the shrimp à la bonne femme, where the puttanesca sauce uses three types of roses (dog rose, rosebuds, and Damask rose) instead of tomatoes; there’s also the traditional ricotta and flour gnocchi, which draws on the tradition of the Amalfi Coast but also that of the ancient Romans, who made it with curdled milk. And then perhaps the most popular dish: rock mullet yakitori with Salanova lettuce, mustard, and Bercy sauce with sea snails. Another highlight will be the wine pairing, with Champagne providing a perfect backdrop with its French bubbles.
Your menus really come to life through the service, don’t they?
“Absolutely. Almost all the dishes are finished in front of the guest, but not just for show. Some dishes only reach their full potential when finished in the dining room: I’m thinking of the temperatures, the aromas, and the textures of the sauces. The dining room staff shouldn’t just be limited to carrying a dish from the kitchen to the table. They need to be part of the story, and at our restaurant, they are. From this perspective, Rudy has done a tremendous job. At Villa Laetitia, the kitchen and service are in constant dialogue, and I believe that’s one of our strengths.”
In recent years, Enoteca La Torre has grown tremendously as a group as well. How important is the business side today?
“Enormously. We’re an organization that, between restaurants and catering, generates truly significant revenue and employs over 150 people. Fine dining and catering feed off each other: the production kitchen in Viterbo is a massive, well-organized facility, while here we focus intensely on the details. There’s a constant exchange. And perhaps my good fortune was coming from the Campania school, where you learn to do everything: hotels, banquets, gourmet dining. I’ve never limited myself solely to fine dining.”
Yet, despite your growth, your cuisine has retained a strong sense of identity.
“Because we never wanted to chase after something that wasn’t ours. In recent years, many restaurants have tried to impress at all costs—perhaps looking too much to other countries or following trends—and perhaps they’ve set aside the essence of Italian cuisine a bit too much. In my opinion, customers who come to Italy want to find a clear Italian identity. It’s perfectly fine to use contemporary techniques, fermentation, or international influences, but without forgetting who we are. I continue to believe in a Mediterranean cuisine that is sincere and instinctive.”
The two Michelin stars arrived in 2022. How has your approach changed since then?
“The customer’s awareness has changed. Today, those who come here arrive very well-informed and with extremely high expectations. This motivates us to do even better. However, we haven’t changed our identity to chase recognition. That would have been a mistake. Those two stars came precisely because of who we were and the dishes we prepared.”
Your menus really come to life through the service as well, right?“Absolutely. Almost all dishes are finished in front of the customer, but not just for show. Some preparations only reach their full potential when finished in the dining room: I’m thinking of the temperatures, the aromas, the textures of the sauces. The dining room staff shouldn’t just be limited to carrying a dish from the kitchen to the table. They must be part of the story, and at our restaurant, they are.
Your cuisine is part of an extremely elegant setting like Villa Laetitia and is closely associated with someone like Anna Fendi. How much has this environment influenced your career path?
“Above all, I’ve learned one thing here: versatility. Anna Fendi is a constant presence, very attentive to detail, style, and aesthetics.” We clicked right away, partly because my last name is Stile,” he laughs, “so let’s just say fate gave us a little nudge. But jokes aside, working in a place like this naturally leads you to seek balance and simplicity in your dishes as well. When an idea might be a bit too extreme, here you learn to tone it down, to make it more harmonious.”
Is there a dish today that you truly feel is your own?
“The Amalfi seven-lemon risotto. It’s probably the dish that best represents me and that I’ll never take off the menu. The lemon is prepared in seven different ways, but always with technique serving the flavor. And then there’s the mixed pasta, which I feel deeply connected to because it tells the story of Gragnano and the tradition of Campania-style fish soup. It’s a dish that’s constantly evolving but always stays tied to memory.”
Who is Domenico Stile today, away from the kitchen?
“Today, I’m certainly a more at-peace man than I was a few years ago. Before, I used to approach my work in an almost obsessive way. I was constantly thinking about the restaurant, even at home. For example, when we earned our second star…on the drive back home, I was already thinking about how to get the third. Then something changed; I realized I had to draw the line, find a balance that wouldn’t leave me with regrets when looking at my son. This job is wonderful but risks taking so much away from you. My professional drive, however, has remained the same—in fact, it may even be growing—but I’ve learned to protect my private life.”
Ultimately, this is probably the secret behind Enoteca La Torre Villa Laetitia: the ability to grow without losing balance. To evolve, in fact, just like the remuage process in Champagne production. Slowly, steadily, without ever ceasing to move, in order to achieve the full expression of an excellent vintage.
Info
Lungotevere delle Armi, 23, 00195 Rome RM;
Tel: 06 4566 8304;
ristorante@enotecalatorre.group;
https://enotecalatorrevillalaetitia.enotecalatorre.group/
