Family-owned truffle grounds, stories of truffle hunters, and a cuisine that breaks free from formality to connect with the true heart of Umbria.
There are experiences that change the way you look at things. Arriving in San Pietro a Pettine was exactly that: it made me question everything I thought I knew about truffles and, at the same time, realize how much clearer a cuisine can become when you get to see firsthand what ends up on your plate.
A microcosm rooted in the local area
In the heart of Umbria, in Trevi, the San Pietro a Pettine Estate is a small, virtuous oasis where signature cuisine, agriculture, and the preservation of historical heritage coexist in the tranquility of the countryside. It was here that the restaurant La Cucina di San Pietro a Pettine was founded in 2013, the brainchild of Carlo Caporicci, owner of the estate and the historic family business (founded in 1948) dedicated to the harvesting and sale of truffles. The estate, which spans twelve hectares, features cultivated truffle grounds and approximately 2,000 hectares of natural truffle grounds stretching from the valley floor up to Monte Pettino, over which the company holds exclusive harvesting rights. This wealth of resources allows them to have truffles available year-round, enabling them to supply some of the world’s most prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants.
However, the estate is home not only to prized truffles, but also to a Romanesque church with its splendid 16th-century frescoes. All around are aromatic herbs, centuries-old olive trees that yield the “Aurelia” extra virgin olive oil, an ancient stone cistern where extraordinary cheeses are now aged, and a small flock of laying hens currently being established, right within the truffle grounds. Tenuta San Pietro a Pettine is also a place for relaxation and discovering wellness in the countryside. Thus, between the beautiful pool overlooking the village of Trevi and the small suites for those wishing to stay, the experiences here become fully immersive and dedicated to exploring the local area.
Where Truffles Are a Family Affair
Stepping into the truffle grounds of Tenuta San Pietro a Pettine means, first and foremost, encountering a reality very different from the one described elsewhere. In fact, harvesting is not a spectacle but a daily practice, guided by experience and observation. Leading the search are Eric and Bruno, separated by fifty years of experience but united by the same approach, along with their dogs Enea and Mira. The work relies on subtle cues: “just look at the dog’s tail and you’ll understand everything,” they explain, “when it’s up, the dog is in the thick of the hunt; when it drops, the dog is tired.” The truffle is a subterranean fungus that lives in symbiosis with plant roots: oak, holm oak, and beech for the prized black truffle; poplar and lowland species for the white truffle. In cultivated truffle grounds, this symbiosis is encouraged, but it remains subject to natural cycles: several years to reach full productivity, a phase of stability, and then a gradual decline. “No truffle ground lasts forever” explains Carlo Caporicci.
Environmental balance is also crucial because “today the forests are closing in, and without grazing and sunlight, the truffles disappear sooner” he says. Caring for the land thus becomes an integral part of the work. Alongside the natural aspect, however, the economic one emerges strongly. Competition among truffle hunters is increasingly intense: “There is cutthroat competition among truffle hunters, especially among the younger generations,” says Bruno, “some people deliberately ruin the ground, and there is a real risk that dogs will be poisoned.”
As we venture deeper into the woods, the conversation grows more intense, just like the branches we’re trying to dodge. Carlo speaks candidly (and with a touch of frustration) about how quality always takes a back seat. “Today, it’s more important to have a large, well-shaped truffle than to consider its aroma and flavor. And in this regard, many restaurants are the main culprits. There’s a rush for truffles, even out of season, so commercially speaking, being first to market is worth more than quality. It doesn’t matter what kind of truffle they manage to get, as long as they have it before everyone else. It’s absurd to me,” he says. Yes, because for Carlo Caporicci, who has been doing this work for years, the truffle is first and foremost about sustainability, and in fact “all those truffles that are normally unsellable (due to irregular shape and size) we use them and, in fact, we crush them in a mortar to release all their essential oils.”
La Cucina di San Pietro a Pettine
Sitting down to eat at La Cucina di San Pietro a Pettine, after having experienced all of this, means truly understanding what you are about to eat. It is as if every dish were a natural extension of what is happening outside. The most obvious choice is the elimination of the tasting menu. Here, the kitchen is entrusted to Carlo’s daughter, Chef Alice Caporicci, who, after significant experience in Italy and London, returned to Umbria to create honest cuisine. Because, as Carlo says, “women’s cooking, unlike men’s, never loses that realism that is the essence of cooking.” And in fact, with this in mind, Alice decided to abandon tasting menus to create a more flexible offering, without set sequences. A choice that also stems from a practical consideration: in a setting like this, rigidity risked pushing people away rather than bringing them closer.
Dishes from an à la carte menu
The result is an à la carte menu where the dishes are designed to be chosen and, above all, understood without the need for lengthy explanations. We begin with an artichoke prepared with Jerusalem artichoke, almonds, and preserved lemon: smoky and citrusy, with a clean balance. The chicken liver pâté, served with brioche, is rich, intense, and uncompromising. The crispy egg (breaded in bread and chicken skin) with pickled potato and prized black truffle, on the other hand, plays with texture. It is one of their signature dishes, and perhaps for this reason, it guides the palate through the flavors like a true host.
Then one of the most successful dishes: an “onion broth without broth”—grilled Cannara onion buds with Cinta lard, pecorino, and prized black truffle. Their shape and thickness are somewhat reminiscent of Eastern cuisine, but the flavor remains deeply rooted in the local terroir. The linguine (from a small pasta mill near Perugia) with butter, dried anchovies, and truffle is a standout dish. The savory flavor, built up through the pasta simmered in the anchovy bones, is never excessive, and the truffle blends in naturally. “Here, as in Piedmont, anchovies and black truffles are a classic pairing. We use anchovies to enhance the flavor—and no, they’re not from the Cantabrian Sea. It’s not like those are the only ones out there; ours are from Marina di Pisciotta,” says Carlo.
The pigeon is served next, having been dry-aged for 15 days before undergoing a rapid two-step cooking process, finished with a rich sauce and truffles. Here, too, technique and simplicity coexist effortlessly.
“We’ve brought back dishes we served years ago and had taken off the menu for a while, before realizing that a restaurant must first and foremost serve its customers—so if a dish is popular, it should stay. Or, in our case, make a comeback,” explains Alice. What emerges is a cuisine that has chosen to be more straightforward. Less complexity, more clarity. Alice doesn’t sacrifice technique, but uses it to make the dishes accessible, not to complicate them. She speaks of this phase as a moment when she decided to do exactly what she feels, without conforming to pre-established models. And this freedom is palpable. In the end, what remains is a sense of coherence: from the forest to the table, everything follows the same logic. No special effects, but a continuous narrative that works precisely because it doesn’t try to be anything else.
Contacts
Loc. San Pietro a Pettine, 06039 Trevi (PG), Umbria;
Phone: 0742381480, 334 5363028;
