There is a subtle, almost silent elegance in the way Vicky Sevilla pulls the strings of her creation, Arrels. Nestled within the historic walls of an old stable in Sagunto, this restaurant is not only a temple of avant-garde Valencian cuisine but has also become the symbol of a new work philosophy. In an era when the restaurant industry debate is often tainted by stories of exploitation and precariousness, Sevilla stands out as a voice of reason, championing the existence of a healthy, happy, and, above all, balanced ecosystem.
Beyond the narrative of exploitation: human value
“I don’t think we can generalize,” the chef told 7Canibales, with the determination of someone who has built her success on the strength of a close-knit team. Arrels’ philosophy challenges systemic biases in the industry: here, the pursuit of culinary perfection does not come at the expense of employees’ dignity. On the contrary, Vicky focuses on a stable staff, built on mutual trust and respect for rest periods. “There are establishments with excellent conditions and staff with difficult attitudes; every case is a story in itself,” she emphasizes, urging people not to paint the entire industry with the grim colors of controversy. For her, the real revolution was reducing the number of seats to twenty—a bold choice born of the pandemic—to ensure that every cog in the machine runs smoothly, allowing the team to work with calm and precision.
A Rise Fueled by Memory and Instinct
While Vicky Sevilla is celebrated today as the youngest woman to have earned a Michelin star in Spain, her entry into the culinary firmament happened almost by chance—or rather, out of a love for freedom. Having fled to Formentera at age 17, she discovered in the kitchen of a beach bar the adrenaline she had once sought in soccer and the creativity she had dreamed of in the fine arts. Without ever having studied under the greats like Ferran Adrià, she has made a deep mark on the Valencian culinary scene, growing under the wing of mentors such as Begoña Rodrigo and Susi Díaz, from whom she inherited tenacity and management skills.
The Cuisine: A Family and Regional Archive
Arrels’ menu is a culinary narrative of the Quart de les Valls region. It is a cuisine that draws on ancestral memories: the citrus fruits that perfume the air, the bounty of the Mediterranean garden, and the freshest catch. Each dish is a tribute to the mother’s recipes, reimagined with a contemporary sensibility that nods to wellness. Thanks to constant consultation with nutrition experts, Sevilla ensures the balance and digestibility of her many courses, so that the culinary experience is a pleasure that does not weigh you down, but rather rejuvenates you.
Against Labels: Identity Beyond Quotas
Despite the prestige of the Michelin star, which she earned in 2022 following a meteoric rise that began in 2017, the chef remains averse to preconceived labels. While she acknowledges the importance of highlighting the role of women in high-end kitchens, she elegantly rejects the idea of being part of a “quota.” “It’s essential to let people know that there are great women at the helm of top-tier restaurants, but I don’t like it when this concept is misused,” she confesses. For Vicky, talent has no gender, and her star is not a political milestone, but the result of absolute dedication that draws strength from its roots (Arrels, in fact) and looks to the future with a clear, rhetoric-free gaze.
