In the Prati neighborhood, the rooftop of the Hotel Orazio Palace features hearty cuisine by Chef Salvatore Testagrossa, offering a mix of reimagined traditional dishes and a wine list with over 400 labels
Photographs by Mattia Aquila, Matteo Piazza, and Far Agency
Rome has no shortage of rooftop spots, but the view doesn’t always match the quality of the cuisine. Ozio Restaurant, which opened in 2021 on the top floor of the Hotel Orazio Palace, in the Prati neighborhood, focuses precisely on striking this balance: a terrace overlooking the city’s rooftops and a culinary offering built on technique, flavor, and an Italian cuisine that enjoys looking around.
The Hotel and Restaurant
The Hotel—part of the 4L Collection Hotels Group, founded in 1980 by the Lazzarini family—now comprises eight properties in the heart of Rome, including the Hotel Orazio Palace. Housed in an elegant historic building from the early 20th century, it boasts a location that is undoubtedly one of its main strengths: from the seventh floor, a privileged view of St. Peter’s Dome, Castel Sant’Angelo, the Janiculum Hill, and Monte Mario unfolds, while the indoor dining room, with its modern and minimalist design, offers a more intimate and cozy atmosphere. The project is led by Paolo De Angelis, a Roman owner and sommelier with extensive experience in the city’s restaurant scene, now joined by his daughter Chiara in welcoming guests at Ozio.
The Chef
In the kitchen is Salvatore Testagrossa, a Roman born in 1973 but with Sicilian roots, the youngest of eight siblings. Before cooking, Salvatore had entirely different plans for himself, so much so that he earned a diploma in classical guitar from the conservatory. Yet something within him had been born even before he realized it. He began teaching himself to cook at age 16, working in various trattorias, learning the secrets of Roman recipes, and taking numerous professional courses. After a brief but formative stint in London, however, he returned to Rome, working at Baccano and La Zanzara.
His cuisine quickly evolved into a style that is technically sophisticated yet accessible, drawing on culinary heritage without weighing it down. This is precisely what he does at Ozio, where he complements the à la carte menu with two tasting menus—Accidia and Lussuria—while never neglecting his nods to tradition. In fact, the dishes almost always start with classic references, which are deconstructed or enriched with unexpected twists; but what really stands out is the chef’s desire to challenge himself with extractions, infusions, and further processing of individual ingredients. This aspect becomes evident from the very first bites: the mini loaf made with sourdough and artichoke leaf salt is served with an intense basil oil. An entrée that, with its aroma and simplicity, quickly reveals the work behind the many preparations in which Chef Testagrossa delights.
The Dishes
The appetizers take us to Spain, where the Cecina de León stands out. Served alongside basil bread and a mixture of tomato confit, caramelized onion, and toasted pine nuts, it almost resembles a salsa where acidity and freshness contrast with the savory richness of the Spanish beef. Topped with grated beefsteak tomato, Maldon salt, oil, and pepper. The sea, on the other hand, takes center stage with a dish that emphasizes citrus, textures, and savory flavors. “Here we’ve placed the sea at the center, with the season all around it: Mazara del Vallo red shrimp tartare with oil and lime; brioche with orange pudding; lemon cream and orange cream; avocado with an intense hint of lime and a fennel foam embracing the entire dish” explains the chef. And indeed, it is an “uncooked” dish, seemingly simple yet ultimately resembling a painter’s palette with many different colors to draw from.
Among the first courses, the dish that stands out the most is probably Verrigni spaghetti with sea urchin, flavored with garlic, parsley, chili pepper, and lemon, and finished with salted roasted peanuts. It’s a concept that works precisely because of the contrast between the intense flavor of the sea urchin and the crunchy, savory notes of the peanuts, which, in a way, end up softening the pronounced briny taste.
Also very interesting is the rye pappardelle with Cinta Senese sausage, shallot cream, baby fennel, and a crispy wafer infused with red wine. But the dish that best captures the more “Roman” and direct side of Testagrossa’s cuisine is his provocative take on saltimbocca alla romana, completely reimagined. The dish retains all the hallmarks of the Roman classic but completely changes its structure. The prosciutto becomes a 24-month-aged Nebrodi ham left to dry for three days at 35 degrees; the sage is cooked and pulverized over the fillet; there is the contrast of mustard and a veal reduction scented with Chardonnay. “This is a provocation, a game, starting right from the moment you read the menu” explains the chef with a smile, “The flavor is certainly that of saltimbocca, but it’s extremely refined and presented in a thousand different ways.”
The dessert menu follows the same theme: bold, crowd-pleasing flavors like the pistachio cream or the bread mille-feuille, which embodies creativity and a commitment to reducing waste. Alongside the cuisine, however, is Paolo De Angelis’s important work on the wine cellar, featuring a wine list with up to 400 labels and a large section dedicated to Champagne—with over 160 selections—ranging from major houses to small récoltant manipulants.
Here, however—thanks in no small part to its central location and panoramic view of the capital—the aperitif and after-dinner drinks are a standout feature well worth mentioning: in fact, the cocktail selection on the terrace makes it one of the most popular spots in the Prati neighborhood. And while weekends (or holidays) are dedicated to brunch, the real highlight remains Salvatore Testagrossa’s cuisine: distinctive, substantial, and built on clean flavors. A menu that delights thanks to the chef’s lively creativity and finds an added bonus in the view over Rome’s rooftops—though that’s not the only reason to make the trip up here.
Ozio Restaurant
Via Orazio, 21, 00193 Roma;
Phone: 06 8715 5229;
