In the historic center of Dénia, just a short walk from the town castle, there is an Italian restaurant that defies the most common clichés of Italian cuisine. It’s called Toy, and its name already says a lot about its identity.
The building that now houses the restaurant was, in fact, a historic 19th-century toy factory, a testament to a past in which Dénia was one of the main hubs of Spanish toy craftsmanship. This is the origin of the reference to “toy,” but also the idea of a cuisine that loves to experiment, have fun, and surprise. Behind this project are two Italians: chef Massimo Arienti and maître d’ Giovanni Mastromarino. In less than a year, their restaurant has already made it onto the Michelin Guide’s list of recommended establishments, winning over both the public and critics thanks to a culinary offering that blends tradition, technique, and a contemporary vision.
Beyond the stereotypes of Italian cuisine
“Italian cuisine isn’t just pasta and pizza,” explains Massimo Arienti, as recently stated in InfoBae. And it is precisely from this conviction that the soul of Toy is born. Originally from Milan, Arienti built his professional career in restaurants, hotels, and major international cities such as London and Melbourne before arriving in Spain. Following his experience in Ibiza and his work at the Nómada restaurant in Dénia, the desire to create a personal project capable of showcasing a less predictable gastronomic Italy took shape. Toy thus becomes a place where Italian cuisine is interpreted in an authentic yet contemporary way, without resorting to caricatures or easy formulas. Here, tradition is not replicated nostalgically, but transformed through technique, research, and modern sensibility. The result is a culinary offering that engages in a continuous dialogue between Italy and the Mediterranean, while always maintaining a strong identity.
Dénia as a Bridge Between Italy and Spain
One of the most interesting aspects of the project is its connection to the Marina Alta region. Arienti and his team work closely with local ingredients, forging natural links between Spanish ingredients and Italian culinary culture. “The Mediterranean offers very similar products on both sides”, says the chef. And it is precisely this affinity that allows for original and coherent interpretations. This gives rise to dishes such as Milanese-style tripe reinterpreted with Valencian garrofó beans instead of the classic variety, or creations that combine technical elegance with deeply recognizable flavors: potato cream with mussels and truffle, squid ink bun stuffed with salt cod, fresh pasta with truffle and marinated egg yolk. Each dish strikes a precise balance between tradition and modernity, avoiding creative contrivances that are ends in themselves.
Milanese Risotto as a Statement of Identity
Of all the dishes on the menu, there is one that embodies Toy’s philosophy more than any other: Milanese risotto with ossobuco. For Arienti, this is not merely an iconic recipe, but a genuine personal connection to his family and cultural history. “For us, risotto is what Sunday paella is here”, explains the chef. The dish is prepared following a rigorous and deeply identity-defining process. The base is made from a beef and chicken broth enriched with saffron—both in stigmas and powder form—while the final stage of creaming becomes the central element of the dish’s flavor balance. Here, one of the most interesting technical details comes into play: a special “mantequilla ácida,” prepared with a reduction of wine, vinegar, and shallots, designed to amplify depth and complexity without weighing down the dish. Rounding it all out is a traditional Milanese ossobuco, which lends the dish a comforting and deeply convivial dimension.
A restaurant designed to be enjoyed year-round
Toy was also conceived with another specific goal: to help transform Dénia into a gastronomic destination not tied exclusively to the summer season. “You can come here all year round”, Arienti emphasizes. In a location heavily influenced by seasonal tourism, the restaurant aims to build a solid and recognizable experience capable of attracting an international audience even off-season.
For this reason, the dining experience has been designed as a true narrative journey. The restaurant offers three different tasting menus, each taking guests on a journey that blends technique, emotion, and surprise. From the more minimalist “Menú Inizio” to the more elaborate “Menú Brianza,” featuring thirteen courses, each menu showcases an Italian cuisine that is free from stereotypes and deeply contemporary.
A cuisine that plays, yet with great precision
Toy achieves something rare: being sophisticated without seeming aloof. The playfulness evoked by the restaurant’s name is reflected in the creativity of the dishes, yet always with balance and consistency. The surprise does not stem from excess, but rather from the ability to transform ingredients and memories into a personal gastronomic language. And perhaps this is precisely the strength of Massimo Arienti’s project: having built, in the heart of Dénia, an Italian cuisine that does not chase after spectacle, but chooses to convey identity, territory, and memory with precision, lightness, and authenticity.
