“Fine dining? It’s not just about the food—you have to know how to make guests feel welcome. I have customers who come back twice in seven days.” Vito Mollica is setting the standard with a comprehensive hospitality concept in Florence. Here are the five restaurants he personally oversees, ranging from fine dining to bistros.
When Vito Mollica talks about his cuisine, he always begins with a story, with the simplicity and spontaneous smile of someone who deeply loves what he does. His story begins in Avigliano, in Basilicata, where as a child he watched his mother prepare traditional Lucanian dishes. It was there that his first culinary gestures took shape—simple and home-style—which over the years would evolve into a refined language capable of engaging with the world.
The chef
Born in 1971, his career took shape within the Four Seasons group in Milan and Prague, before he settled in Florence, the city that ultimately won him over. “When I arrived, I found a paradise of perfection: art, history, cuisine,” he says. Here, in 2011, he earned a Michelin star for the restaurant Il Palagio, establishing a style that combines technical precision with a deeply Italian sensibility. Since 2022, his new home has been Palazzo Portinari Salviati, one of the city’s oldest and most evocative buildings. And it is here that Mollica brings his all-encompassing vision of hospitality to life. “Welcoming guests is much more than just preparing a dish,” he says. “It consists of small gestures: the time dedicated to the guest, attention to detail, and a discreet presence.” A concept of dining that involves the entire kitchen staff, a close-knit team that has been with him for years.
A Restaurant Like “Atto”
Stepping into Palazzo Portinari Salviati means stepping back through centuries of history. The Portinari family once lived here, and legend has it that Beatrice (Dante Alighieri’s muse) was born here. Centuries later, the palace became the residence of Cosimo I de’ Medici, the first Grand Duke of Tuscany and second Duke of Florence. Today, within these walls, history continues to live on through the cuisine. ATTO by Vito Mollica, Salotto Portinari Bar & Bistrot, Eye Cocktail Bar, and Sala Beatrice are, in fact, the four dining venues of Chef Vito Mollica, housed in the two inner courtyards of the historic palace on Via del Corso, bringing it to life throughout the day.
The fine-dining restaurant ATTO, on the other hand, is located in the Corte degli Imperatori, the oldest part of the building. The dining rooms are arranged beneath the vaults frescoed by Alessandro Allori (to put it simply, one of the leading figures of 16th-century Florence) and retain a solemn, almost museum-like beauty. But alongside the Renaissance frescoes, contemporary elements appear, creating a visual dialogue that makes the space surprisingly vibrant. There is the main dining room, with its timeless charm, and then the smaller side rooms carved out like niches, through which one can glimpse the elegant and unhurried service.
The restaurant’s name itself hints at its purpose. “Every dish is an act,” explains Mollica. “An act of love toward cooking, an act of respect toward the land and the producers”. The experience is conceived as a theatrical performance, and each course contributes to building a narrative. The dining room is directed by Mark Ignatov, who ensures elegance through timing and discretion, while sommelier Clizia Zuin oversees a wine cellar of over 850 labels. The latest addition to the wine list is particularly striking: a tasting priced at a whopping 10,000 euros to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 1976 Judgment of Paris, the historic blind tasting that shattered preconceptions about California wines.
The Dishes
ATTO’s cuisine revolves around seasonality, a principle that Mollica champions with conviction. “Nature guides the selection of ingredients and, consequently, the creation of the dishes. Every season of the year is an opportunity to invent something new,” he explains. The menu is divided between à la carte and two tasting menus—Corte degli Imperatori and Grand Tour di Mare—but the chef makes no secret of his preference for giving guests the freedom to choose. “Florence is a small city, and many guests return often. Sometimes even twice a week,” he explains. “Sometimes I prefer that they order à la carte; it means they feel at ease.” The amuse-bouches immediately reveal the kitchen’s signature style. Shrimp marinated in leche de tigre, Romanesco cabbage foam, and crushed red pepper powder open the tasting with a brilliant balance of acidity and tropical sweetness. An airy bite that surprises and melts in the mouth, blending freshness with that Lucanian note that emerges like a distant memory. The low-temperature-cooked sea bream with shiso leaves and lime pesto is also very elegant, accompanied by a consommé served on the side: first you taste the fish, then you sip the delicate broth, which amplifies its flavor. A simple yet extremely effective touch.
Among the appetizers, the four-year-aged Royal oyster stands out, served with Oscietra caviar and a green apple soda. The contrast between the briny sea flavors and the fruity freshness is perfectly balanced. The tasting concludes with the bold flavor of raw sea urchin and a creamy Zolfini bean purée. Shortly after, Venetian-style cuttlefish arrives with white polenta foam and tempura-fried cod: a marriage of Italian tradition and Japanese lightness that comes together effortlessly. Particularly successful is the carpaccio of tuna belly, lightly seared over charcoal and featuring rich smoky notes, accompanied by a cream and brunoise of Jerusalem artichoke. Here, the cuisine plays on the depth of flavor: the sweetness of the tuber, the bitterness of the arugula in two textures, the crunch of the fried shallot, and, almost hidden, a veal stock that adds roundness.
The first course—corallini pasta with sea snails in a marinara sauce and a variation of chickpeas—reflects a more regional culinary style. Tomatoes, wild fennel, and parsley oil create an intense Mediterranean aroma, while the legumes add texture and a rustic depth. Among the main courses, Dover sole seared in brown butter with Bernese sauce and white turnip in various textures is a masterpiece of classic elegance. On the side, a small savory croissant with butter, anise, and pecorino: an unexpected touch that makes the dish even more memorable.
The finale is fresh and aromatic: first, a mandarin sorbet with cocoa crumble and spiced foam, followed by the main dessert, a limoncello babà encased in a thin, crispy gavotte with vanilla rice cream, citrus fruits, and Chantilly cream. A refined yet indulgent dessert, as the chef likes to point out. “Today there’s a lot of talk about acidity, bitterness, and umami,” Mollica observes, “but we mustn’t forget to create indulgent dishes.” And indeed, this is precisely the sensation that lingers at the end of the meal: a cuisine that seeks balance without sacrificing pleasure, capable of engaging with Florence’s history without ever becoming nostalgic. A cuisine that, as its name suggests, is first and foremost a gesture, an act of which Vito Mollica is the voice.
Contacts
Palazzo Portinari Salviati, Via del Corso 6 – 50122 Firenze;
firenze@attodivitomollica.com;
Phone: +39 055 5353555;
