An international group that has introduced Italian cuisine to the world through its ingredients and comforting flavors, and which opened Gloria Osteria in Milan a few years ago.
*Content with promotional purposes
Credits: CineFood
Cover photo of the chef courtesy of the group
Is it possible to serve excellent Italian cuisine outside of Italy while maintaining quality, identity, and consistency? The Big Mamma group, founded in 2015 by Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, has built its international growth on this challenge. Today it boasts numerous restaurants in various formats across France, Spain, Germany, England, and other European countries, all united by a distinct identity: Italian ingredients, carefully selected suppliers, a controlled supply chain, and a rather striking concept of hospitality that nonetheless doesn’t lack kindness and warmth. Gloria Osteria represents one of the most recognizable expressions of this model.
Located in Milan’s Brera district, the restaurant combines a slightly ostentatious take on Italian aesthetics with a lively atmosphere and a cuisine that reinterprets classics without stripping them of their essence. Its identity is clear: Italian comfort food based on traditional recipes and a strong focus on the quality of ingredients. At the helm of Gloria Osteria’s kitchen is Alberto Suardi, a chef who has chosen to work within an international group while maintaining a down-to-earth approach to cooking.
Alberto Suardi: career path and arrival at Gloria Osteria
Alberto Suardi arrives at Gloria Osteria after a career built on experiences in Italy and France, witha solid background (including time at Alain Ducasse) that has allowed him to engage with different models of dining. Joining the Big Mamma group was not a change of course, but a conscious choice: to work within a structured system that has decided to invest in theauthenticity of Italian cuisine. “Gloria Osteria is an Italian restaurant that focuses on a recognizable cuisine, made up of iconic dishes and ingredients that are sought after when it comes to certain preparations,” says Suardi. The restaurant’s identity is based on two principles: on the one hand, respect for tradition; on the other, the need to adapt the service to an international clientele accustomed to experiencing the restaurant as a well-rounded experience.
The Big Mamma group, with its locations in various European capitals, has demonstrated that the Italian concept can succeed even beyond national borders without becoming a caricature. Its strength lies in direct sourcing: the ingredients come from Italy, from dairies, charcuteries, and select producers, with no middlemen to compromise the quality one expects when dining at a high-end restaurant. Abroad, Gloria offers Italian cuisine that is recognizable yet intelligently adapted to the local context. It’s not about modifying recipes to make them palatable and acceptable, but about explaining, sharing, and educating. “When you open an Italian restaurant outside of Italy, you have to be even more rigorous,” explains Suardi. “You can’t afford to be sloppy, because you’re the one representing a cultural heritage.”
Italian cuisine abroad: don’t be afraid of fusion
In the group’s restaurants across France, Spain, and other countries, the approach is clear: fresh homemade pasta, pizzas made with select flours, great regional classics, and PDO and PGI ingredients. International diners seek authenticity but also a memorable dining experience, and Big Mamma has struck a balance between these two elements. Gloria Osteria embodies this philosophy with dishes that are immediately recognizable: carpaccio, fresh pasta, risotto, and main courses that are, after all, great classics. The Italian cuisine offered abroad by Gloria Osteria is generous, straightforward, enjoyable, and skillfully blended. Classic recipes are reimagined while remaining as faithful as possible to tradition, without the reverential fear of presenting combinations on the plate that differ from the habits of those who aren’t open-minded. After all, we’re talking about food, not international laws. It is in this context that Parmigiano Reggiano takes on a central role.
Parmigiano Reggiano: The International Perception
On the menu at Gloria Osteria, Parmigiano Reggiano features in several dishes: in the carpaccio, in the pappardelle with meat sauce, and in the risotto with ossobuco. It is not a decorative element, but a fundamental ingredient: this is the message that must be conveyed to those customers who confuse any grated cheese with what is, in fact, the excellence of Parmigiano Reggiano. For Suardi, Parmigiano Reggiano represents “one of the pillars of Italian cuisine.” Not only for its technical versatility, but for what it conveys abroad. “Outside Italy, Parmigiano is often known, but not always understood in its complexity. There is still a lot of confusion between authentic products and imitations. Our job is to use the real thing, of the highest quality, and explain why it makes all the difference.”
In carpaccio, shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano add depth of flavor and texture to a dish that is not simply raw meat served on a plate, but a carefully crafted balance of flavors. In pappardelle with ragù, it adds depth, rounding out the dish with those umami notes that evoke a sense of home in Italy. In risotto, it is an integral part of the creaming process, contributing to the creaminess and lingering finish.
Abroad, Parmigiano Reggiano is sparking ever-greater curiosity, and even those who didn’t grow up with this cheese always on the table are now beginning to appreciate its qualities and nuances. Customers often ask about the aging process, its origin, and how it differs from other cheeses. In this sense, Gloria Osteria serves as a hub for culinary education as well as a dining destination. “For us, Parmigiano Reggiano is a product that deserves respect. It’s not just an ingredient to grate on top; it’s a living substance that changes over time,” Suardi emphasizes. The choice of aging profiles and the way it is used are consistent with the group’s culinary philosophy: flavor, technique, and quality ingredients.
The Big Mamma Model and the Power of Italian Identity
The success of the Big Mamma group demonstrates that Italian identity can be exported without resorting to folklore. The secret lies not in adapting flavors to the market, but in maintaining a clear and consistent approach. In this context, chefs like Alberto Suardi play a key role: translating a national identity into a language that is understandable even to those who did not grow up with those flavors. Working with iconic ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano means bringing a piece of Italian culinary culture abroad, not just a product.
Gloria Osteria, in Milan and in the group’s other locations, proves that serving excellent Italian cuisine outside Italy’s borders is not only possible but can also become a replicable model. Provided that quality remains the starting point.
Contact and Info
Gloria Osteria Milan
Via Tivoli, 3 - Milan
Website: https://gloria-osteria.com/it
