The temple of Calabrian cuisine more than a thousand kilometers from Aspromonte: from Rosarno to San Salvario, a family transforms their home traditions into a restaurant with a dual soul. Calabrian memories, Piedmontese present, and a trattoria that restores dignity to popular cuisine.
In San Salvario, a neighborhood that has always thrived on intersections and stratifications, Broccia—which opened last May—has already become a staple. A true trattoria, which juggles stereotypes and, in Turin (yes, over a thousand kilometers from Calabria), manages to convey with surprising fidelity the deepest meaning of the “popular cuisine” of the South: to nourish, welcome, and tell stories. But above all, to make its guests feel good.
Calabria on a plate, without compromise
The Zurzolo family comes from Rosarno and brings with them a cuisine that needs no explanation. Here, the dishes are not “inspired by” but exactly the same as those cooked at home, with the same logic and respect for the raw ingredients. Among the first courses, fileja (a type of pasta originating in the province of Vibo Valentia, with an elongated and curved shape, generally made with durum wheat semolina and water) is a real staple, thanks to the quality of the pasta and the sauce. Broccia's signature dish, not surprisingly, is the eponymous pasta alla Broccia, topped with fresh tomatoes and sun-dried tomatoes lightly sautéed with garlic, olives, capers, crispy breadcrumbs, and grated Caciocavallo Silano cheese. Enveloping, decisive, proudly Calabrian, and therefore truly memorable. The meat-eater's version, on the other hand, is represented by the opulent fileja with goat sauce.
The famous Aspromonte goat also returns as the star of the main courses: served in terracotta, it is a dish of substance and patience, where the meat is accompanied by aromas and long cooking times, without shortcuts. Very authentic, just as Grandma Zurzolo would want, are the meatballs with pipi and potatoes or the spicy Calabrian black pork sausage with sautéed vegetables.
Piedmont as an alternative, without forcing the issue
Alongside dishes from “down south,” Broccia engages in dialogue with Piedmont. The vitello tonnato is classic and well balanced, the tajarin al ragù offers a comforting and recognizable cuisine, while the bagna caoda arrives at the table in the traditional terracotta fujot, renamed here “S-cionfetta,” as a small sign of the cultural coexistence that defines the restaurant.
There are three tasting menus available, each designed to reflect specific regional traditions: the Calabrian Menu with a mixed appetizer of cold cuts and cheeses, a first course of Broccia or fileja pasta with various sauces, a traditional meat main course, and a homemade dessert; the Piedmontese Menu with veal in tuna sauce, tajarin with meat sauce, a main course linked to the season, and bagna caoda served in the classic manner; finally, the Vegetarian Menu with vegetables, preserves, and cheeses, consistent and never secondary. As for desserts, alongside the typical bonet, the chocolate mousse with salt crystals and extra virgin olive oil undoubtedly stands out, where the bitterness of the cocoa is enhanced by the flavor and roundness of the oil. A finale that closes the meal with the same authenticity that distinguishes the entire restaurant, suspended in time between hanging bottles of wine and iconic red and white checkered tablecloths.
Dining room, wine, and hospitality
The overall experience is enhanced by the work of the dining room staff, led by two brothers-in-law, Kevin and Angelo, who are confident hosts with a surprisingly deep knowledge of wine. Thanks to them, Calabria and Piedmont coexist on the plates and in the glasses, with a wide and refined selection of labels described with naturalness. Broccia is not a nostalgic exercise, but a lively, everyday, necessary place. A trattoria that reminds us that authentic popular cuisine does not need to be rewritten. It just needs to be listened to. And sometimes, to really understand Calabria, you don't need to go south. You just need to sit at the right table in Turin.
Contacts
Broccia
Via Nizza, 39/A, 10125 Torino TO
Phone: 351 463 9707
