Between the Dolomites and Val Pusteria, the chef at Tilia transforms the silence and majesty of the mountains into dishes that convey authenticity, memory, and respect. In Dobbiaco, a glass cube and a symbolic mountain preserve the soul of a place where territory and vision meet.
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A mountain that envelops and accompanies, discreet and majestic at the same time. With its silence, its unique sounds, its constant presence. This is Chris Oberhammer's mountain, not just a backdrop, but a guiding spirit. The chef recounts it through his cuisine, his dishes, and above all, his daily life: morning runs to breathe the pure air of the high altitude, sincere relationships with local farmers, breeders, and producers, and the continuous search for balance between tradition and modernity. His refuge is called Tilia — from the Latin word for lime tree, a symbol of harmony and hospitality — a restaurant nestled in the grounds of the former Hotel Posta, now home to the only Michelin star in Val Pusteria (since 2007). A place where the mountains literally enter the dining room: the fourteen seats are located inside a glass cube, which allows the gaze to wander freely over the landscape.
There are only a few tables, because Chris—as everyone calls him—is alone in the kitchen. It's a one-man show in which every gesture becomes part of an intimate and precise ritual. At his side is Anita Mancini, his partner in life and work: sommelier, hydrosommelier, a discreet but fundamental presence. She welcomes guests, guiding them with grace and expertise through wines, infusions, and unexpected pairings. Everything at Tilia speaks of balance, moderation, and respect.
“...so we try to bring all this back to life. The dishes that have become moments, the moments that have become memories, and the memories that have become traditions. Welcome to Tilia.”
There is no set menu here; the seasons and the rhythm of nature guide the chef's creations. Chris relies on the mountains: he absorbs their rhythm, listens to the ingredients, and translates them into profound and precise preparations, thanks to his talent, cosmopolitan experiences, and authentic connection to this land. “If we lose the culinary culture and traditions that are shaped by the cycle of the seasons in the mountains, we all lose something of inestimable value.” This principle pervades every Oberhammer creation, even when a “guest” ingredient such as foie gras makes an appearance, reinterpreted with sensitivity and moderation.
His cuisine is born from intuition and experience: it has its roots in the mountains that shaped him, but it dialogues with everything he has encountered in the world, blending technique, memories, and emotions that come across directly, without mediation. “Regional products and my cosmopolitan experience come together to create dishes that touch the heart: sincere, intense, rich in emotion. At Tilia, I wanted to create a space where pleasure and authenticity are deeply rooted, and every dish becomes an expression of respect and connection.”
The dishes
Every day, the menu takes shape based on what the mountains have to offer: there is no set menu. The season, temperature, harvest, animals, wild herbs, and the work of local producers define the direction of the journey. Nothing is predetermined: everything stems from the constant dialogue between the territory, raw ingredients, and the chef's sensitivity, who transforms what arrives into essential, profound, and ever-changing dishes. Two small tastings open the journey, giving a glimpse of its spirit: a South Tyrolean rice pasta with foie gras, red cabbage, and truffle, and tomato bread served on dolomite stone with alpine herb pesto, plantain, fermented garlic, crème fraîche, and calendula. These are small clues to what is to come: freshness, acidity, crunchiness, and a balsamic touch that introduces the chef's hand.
From here, the journey really gets going with the cream of cannellini beans, Taggiasca olive oil, and capers: a balancing act in which the sweetness of the legume intertwines with the vibrant flavor of the caper and the depth of the olive, surprising in its simplicity. Next comes the turbot, constructed as a layering of flavors: a veil of cauliflower, Imperial Gold caviar, dandelion tartare, and a bergamot cauliflower essence. Savory, bitter, and citrusy freshness interact with precision; the caviar provides impetus, the dandelion tells the story of the mountains, and the bergamot brings breath.
Next comes the spelt risotto with Graukäse foam, black truffle, and spinach powder, which envelops the diner: warm, savory, deep, a captivating alpine comfort. The Graukäse foam is a pungent velvet; the truffle adds an aromatic twist; the spinach powder completes the circle.
We return to meat with the chicken confit thigh, local mushrooms, and braised vegetables: a tribute to the French techniques that shaped the chef, but also a testament to his ability to adapt them to the local area. The chicken becomes rich, almost sumptuous, supported by the depth of the mushrooms and the precision of the cooking.
And here comes the majestic cheese trolley. Not just a simple selection, but a small celebration of aromas, techniques, and aging processes. To conclude, a simple but surprising dessert: red turnip, strawberries, cherries, a touch of chili pepper, fresh cheese, lemon, and mint. A fresh and clean finish, ending the journey delicately and with a contemporary note. In this corner of glass and light, the mountains are not just a backdrop: they are a way of life, of breathing, and of cooking.
Contacts
Tilia
Via Dolomiti, 31/b, 39034 Dobbiaco BZ
Phone: +39 335 812 7783
