High-level expertise in the kitchen and the dining room come together at Tancredis, the restaurant in Sirmione that combines the skills of Chef Roberto Stefani and pastry chef Annalisa Borella to create a menu that astonishes at first glance.
The story
Freshwater, sweet water. Transparent. Infinite. The water that graces Lake Garda is among Italy's most exquisite and coveted. Whether it's summer or spring, countless visitors from around the world flock to admire it. They stand by its shores, in awe, whether sitting or standing. Silently. Its presence is a spectacle in itself, sometimes amplified by its surroundings. In Sirmione, in the province of Brescia, there's a privileged spot from which to contemplate it.
A haven of peace, far from the bustle. Its name is Tancredi, a restaurant born in 2009 from the enlightened idea of five partners: Amedeo Baroni, Antonio Minervini, Alberto Sicheli, Arnaldo Damiani, and Leonardo Cirillo. Collaborating at Sirmione's Risorgimento restaurant, they ventured to revitalize lakeside dining by establishing their own place.
How? By making a difference: Sirmione isn't short on restaurants serving lakeside cuisine. The owners chose to stand out by offering seafood cuisine, an "Ode to the Mediterranean," aiming to highlight the country's culinary excellence. Local products like Bagoss cheese, Pozzolengo saffron, Valtènesi black truffle, and Bedizzole cornmeal are joined by ingredients from other regions and abroad, including lobster, king crab, and Wagyu beef. This is what Arnaldo Damiani, the restaurant's chef until 2018, tells me. In that year, he transitioned his skills to the dining room, orchestrating impeccable service and curating one of the region's most knowledgeable wine cellars, encompassing Italian as well as French labels.
Taking Damiani's place in the kitchen since 2019 is Roberto Stefani, a Brescia native born in 1982. His resume is impressive. From Pellicano in Porto Ercole alongside Antonio Guida, to Albereta in Erbusco under the guidance of Italian culinary maestro Gualtiero Marchesi. After stints in London and Geneva, Roberto returned to Italy as the chef at Palazzo Arzaga Golf & Spa. A significant influence on Roberto is Chef Antonio Guida, with whom he collaborated again at the Mandarin Oriental in Bodrum and later at the opening of Mandarin Oriental's Seta restaurant in Milan.
The restaurant
Divided between the indoor dining area and the garden oasis, adorned with flowers and green plants, Tancredi provides a lakeside showcase. The decor is contemporary and essential, featuring light tones and a clean, white table setup that enhances the intense blue of the surrounding landscape. Notably, different Murano glass pieces are used for bread and small pastries, adding a touch of class and exclusivity to the service.
But how is dining at Tancredis? The first characteristic that can be attributed to Roberto Stefani's cuisine is intensity. The selected elements arrive in concentrated forms, projected onto the plate without interference—elements the chef deeply understands, just as he knows the technique that helps him transform what seems already beautiful and ready, yet is merely in transition, destined to take another step in its creativity.
Italian and French influences shine through in the dishes, impressive both in taste and aesthetics. The sea is there, clear and unveiled; a sea that remains the focus, accompanied by seasonings and additions that don't diminish the briny notes and distinctive identity of each chosen fish.
The restaurant offers two tasting menus: "Under the Earth and Under the Water," a six-course exploration guided by the chef, and "Q.B.," a four-course selection featuring Tancredi's signatures. Additionally, à la carte options are available.
Don't miss the desserts crafted by Annalisa Borella, a talented native pastry chef from Brescia, with an impressive background. In 2019, Annalisa worked at Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur, which earned the title of world's best restaurant by 50Best. She previously worked with the Roca brothers at Celler de Can Roca, and at Villa Feltrinelli and Albereta with Gualtiero Marchesi.
Her desserts are not mere finishes but rather co-stars of the menu. Vibrant colors, diverse textures, and temperatures characterize Borella's creations—essential and emotion-rich, perfectly balanced in sweetness.
Equally astonishing are the cuisine and the cellar at Tancredi, boasting around 800 selections of renowned and niche labels, with a strong focus on sparkling wines spanning Italy and France. Guiding patrons in their choice is Arnaldo, primarily assisted by his son, showcasing their expertise and intuition in understanding the customers' preferences.
The dishes
Roberto's amuse bouche is rich and colorful. It begins with a waffle topped with a curcuma-infused mayonnaise, followed by a tartlet filled with chard and wild hops, and a Wagyu A4 tartare with wasabi, carrots, and snow peas.
The first presented appetizer is a chef's signature: Sea Snails Bourguignonne-style, served in a cup and concealed by a buffalo mozzarella foam, colored with parsley chlorophyll, red and yellow tomato sauce, and cuttlefish ink. A radish cream and crispy daikon enhance the play of textures and flavors.
Equally captivating is the marinated mackerel, confit-cooked and smoked with vermouth and parsley sauce. A touch of lemongrass adds a balsamic and fresh note, while vibrant red beet gel veils the underlying mackerel like a delicate shroud.
Various mushroom textures, seaweed, and a rich shellfish-based sauce with a French touch accompany a perfectly cooked hake.
Excellence in execution and flavor shines through the Acquerello Rice risotto, featuring sardines, sage, char roe, and candied lemon. The rice grain, al dente, absorbs the flavors of Lake Garda—acidity, saltiness, and greens softness.
The savory courses conclude with Black Cod, miso zabaglione, and perilla. A seductive dish, perfectly balanced between richness and acidity. A creation that travels the world and returns to Italy with the power of zabaglione.
The dessert level is elevated, from the fresh and tangy Rhubarb-based creation, featuring strawberries and radishes in various forms and textures. There's a tuile filled with vanilla and strawberry foam, delicately cooked sous-vide rhubarb, rhubarb and strawberry gel, and a sorbet of the same flavors. Completing the picture are raw radishes.
Finishing strong, the coffee-based dessert offers a more indulgent experience with a crumbly coffee-scent.
Tancredi's restaurant
Via XXV Aprile, 75 - 25019 Sirmione (BS)
Tel: +39 030 990 43 91
Monday closed
Open from Tuesday to Sunday, lunch & dinner
