The Leaders of Enogastronomy

Alan Geaam, From Illegal Immigrant to Lebanon’s First MICHELIN Star Chef

by:
Alessandra Meldolesi
|
copertina alan geaam

From bombings in Lebanon to benches in Paris, from clandestine work on construction sites to a Two MICHELIN Stars, changing his registry and falsifying his CV: the incredible story of Alan Geaam exposes the potential for talent hiding among illegal immigrants.

The story

What a beautiful story of Alan Geaam, Lebanon's first MICHELIN star chef, who succeded against all odds. "Here, you can make your dreams come true," he says about France, that welcomed him. "If today I have two MICHELIN starred restaurants, Alan Geaam and the Auberge Nicolas Flamel, several bistros, a bakery and 80 employees, it is because more than 20 years ago someone extended his hand to me and offered me my first contract, which allowed me to have a residence card. Yes, I am self-taught. Yes, I entered France with a smuggler. But I have the right to be a star chef."

Credits by Philippe Lavieille
Today he is 48, twenty years older than when he arrived, upon fleeing from war-torn Lebanon. Growing up under the bombs in Tripoli, he recalls his childhood with a shudder. Death was a constant presence, watching neighbors and schoolmates disappear. "When we had eggs and stale bread, it was quite the party." Then the journey with a smuggler, the nights spent sleeping on benches, the clandestine work on construction sites, with middlemen keeping 80 percent of the wages. Yet, his debt to the traffickers had to be paid, and would be dragged on for years.


@DL-IB

His lifesaver was a contract as a dishwasher in a diner, the same restaurant where over the years he became commis, chef de partie, demi-chef, sous-chef, and finally chef. Meanwhile, he practiced making pesto and mayonnaise in his one-room apartment, half-copying recipes from books he took at the public library. He also forged false resumes where he would brag about his previous experiences, in the hope to force open the doors of the restaurants of his dreams. He even changed his name, Azzam Abdallah Al Geaam, to soften prejudices. Having obtained French citizenship, he purchased the historic Auberge Nicolas Flamel in Paris, then opened two bistros, a pizzeria, and a grocery store, and became a consultant for the luxury hotel Le K2 Altitude in Courchevel. Two flags are on his uniform today, French and Lebanese, whereas his menus are rainbow-like, thanks to culinary juxtapositions like black falafel with lobster bisque.


@MakiManoukian


"There is talent among young illegal immigrants. We need to teach them French and train them so that they have a trade, it will help our economy," he pleads, supporting the government's proposal to establish a special residence permit for those working in “endangered professions” where labor is scarce, such as catering. But a lot still needs to be done, for instance, a dishwasher whom he has employed for ten years now, is still being denied residency, despite regular work and paychecks. "He is stuck, we don't know why." His mom Ilham taught him to love people. "Because in order to cook, you need to know how to love."

@sortiraparis

Fonte: La Croix

Find the article here

Cover photo: @Affyrm Studios

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