The unmistakable aroma of powdered sugar, toasted hazelnuts, and butter no longer fills Corso Garibaldi in Borgomanero. After fifty-two years of uninterrupted business under the leadership of Anna Giromini and Lidio Duella, the historic Agabio pastry shop has closed its shutters for the last time.
This isn’t just the closure of a business, but a farewell to a beloved gathering spot for Novara’s food lovers—a bastion of authentic craftsmanship that has delighted the palates of cookie and filled pastry fans for over half a century.
The Triumph of the “Brutti ma buoni”
The hallmark of this old-fashioned shop has always been the famous crunchy, irregularly shaped treat: the “Brutti ma buoni,” proudly protected by the municipal designation of origin. Working in a pastry shop, after all, is a matter of vocation. Lidio Duella — born in 1948, whose career began at a very young age and included stints in the Ligurian kitchens of Sestri Levante before settling in the Novara area — has dedicated over sixty years of his life to the art of baking. By his side is his wife, Anna Giromini, who has shared every single day of the fast-paced routine, dawn wake-up calls, and sacrifices behind the counter.
The Generational Shift That Isn’t Happening: A Bitter Reflection
But behind the decision to hang up aprons and spatulas lies a profound reflection on the future of the profession and the changing times. Mastro Lidio, despite having always gone out of his way to teach the trade to young people without any jealousy, does not hide a note of bitterness about the contemporary world: “Today, young people no longer want to make the sacrifices—working on Saturdays, Sundays, Christmas, and Easter,” he confesses to La Nazione. A trend that is now glaringly evident in the restaurant and hospitality industry: the demands of working on holidays and weekends no longer align with the willingness of the younger generation, putting the very survival of Italy’s great artisanal tradition at risk.
A Farewell Marked by Tears and Gratitude
Despite the weight of the years and the accumulated fatigue, the last few days have been a celebration of collective affection. Longtime customers and entire families rushed to the store not only to snap up the last remaining supplies of the legendary pastries, but also to give the Duella couple a hug and an emotional handshake. “We never expected to receive so much affection—it’s an endless wave of emotion,” Anna told *La Nazione* with tears in her eyes. Now it’s time for them to enjoy a well-deserved rest, even if the flame isn’t quite out yet: the building remains in the family’s possession, and the bakery’s equipment is still intact. Perhaps one day a new generation will decide to pick up the torch, accepting the challenge of passion and sacrifice?
