Da Burde’s “fegatini in crema” are a culinary heritage that whets the appetite: culture you can savor, served on one of the most delicious crostini you’ve ever tasted. Here’s the story, the recipe, and tips from Paolo Gori on how to make them at home.
The Bite of Tradition: The Authentic Black Crostino from Trattoria da Burde
No compromises, no passing fads. At Burde, when it comes to the black crostino with chicken livers, the benchmark has a very specific last name: that of the Gori brothers, guardians of an authentic recipe that has never been compromised by mainstream adaptations. Unlike the “easy” interpretations—often made far too velvety by the use of blenders and excessive alcoholic notes, we might add—the version proposed by chef Paolo Gori proudly asserts a deeply familial identity: that of his mother, who used Vin Santo for purposes other than cooking offal.
The uniqueness of the recipe and the Da Burde legacy
After all, the trattoria’s history has its roots in the home kitchen. The uniqueness of the pâté, therefore, lies in a very specific methodological and ethical choice: the emphasis on the raw ingredients themselves, without taking any shortcuts. First and foremost, no Vin Santo in the pot: while modern cookbooks often suggest simmering offal with liqueurs or sweet wines, the ancestral tradition of the Burde family calls for a slow, gentle simmer in meat broth (once made from pig’s trotters and old hens).
In essence, Vin Santo isn’t wasted over the flame: previous generations didn’t have enough of it for cooking, and today the chef prefers to serve it by the glass—dry and well-chilled—to properly complement the dish. But what really catches the eye is its deliberately rustic texture: forget about smooth creams or haute cuisine mousses. The chicken livers are vigorously chopped with a knife to preserve their indulgent character on the palate, allowing the guest to fully experience the richness of these offal meats.
The Recipe: Chicken Liver Crostini, Gori Family Style
Details and Quantities
- Servings: 6 people
- Prep time: 20 minutes
- Cooking time: 15 minutes
🛒 Ingredients
- 4 chicken livers (including the hearts)
- 2 salt-preserved anchovies (high-quality, bones to be removed)
- 1 tablespoon of capers in vinegar
- Hot beef broth, as needed
- Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
- 1 knob of butter
- Unsalted Tuscan bread (preferably homemade)
- Salt, as needed
🍳 Instructions
- Preparing the offal
Carefully clean the livers, removing all traces of bile (which would make the dish bitter). Take the hearts and make a small slit on the surface: this is a crucial step to prevent the air pocket inside from bursting when exposed to heat. - The First Searing
Heat a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil in a pan and quickly sear the offal. Keep in mind an old Tuscan saying: “baccalà, fegato e ova più che coce e più che assoda” (salt cod, liver, and eggs—better seared than boiled, better firm than soft). Cooking must therefore be quick to prevent the liver from becoming tough. - Chopping by Hand
Transfer the meat to a cutting board and chop it coarsely along with the cleaned and desalted anchovies. - Finishing in the Pan
Return the mixture to the pan over low heat. Add the chopped capers (leaving a couple whole to provide a pleasant tangy note when bitten into). Taste before adding salt: the anchovies already provide excellent natural umami. - Thinning and Stirring in Butter
Pour in a ladleful of hot broth to finish cooking and blend the sauce. Turn off the heat and stir in a pat of butter until the mixture is glossy and smooth. - Assembling the crostini
Slice the unsalted homemade bread and toast it lightly. Before spreading the sauce, quickly dip the slices in boiling broth to soften the bottom. Spread a generous amount of the warm mixture onto the bread.
🍷 The Sommelier’s Tip
Serve the crostini steaming hot or, at most, warm. For a perfect pairing in true Trattoria da Burde style, serve the dish with a glass of dry Tuscan Vin Santo, served chilled, which cleanses the palate with its pronounced acidity and freshness.
