Returning to La Subida—the Sirk family’s La Subida, that is—is always a powerful experience. It’s a combination of factors and has as much to do with the unique character of this family as it does with its location near the border between Collio and Brda, an isolated geographical area, even though it’s very easy to reach.
The Story
As for the name, tradition tells of a farmer who, while heading down into the valley, saw his oxen kneel before a crucifix. The scene repeated itself three times, so it was decided to build a votive church right there, not far from the Sirk family home. Tanja tells us: “The church is called the Church of Cristo della Subida and is a votive church of the Friulian people.” In Friulian, “subite” means “immediately,” or quickly. The place took its name from that church, and, many years later, so did Josko Sirk’s project: “He decided to name it this way to root it even more deeply in the territory that gave him the opportunity to grow.”
It’s hard to stumble upon this place by chance: “You don’t come here just because you happened to pass by and decided to stop.” La Subida is many things, all at once: Trattoria Al Cacciatore, Osteria La Preda, the houses in the woods, and the vinegar cellar where they produce what is probably the best vinegar in existence. The story has been told many times, so we turn to a less-discussed topic with Tanja: the Sirk family’s approach to hospitality: “This is our home. There’s never been a big distinction between the restaurant and home. Until a couple of years ago, we didn’t have a living room; back when the tavern was open and we were little, we’d come downstairs to watch TV. Here’s our family table (she says, pointing to it), where we ate, even when the restaurant was closed. And this is where we did our homework—just as my children still do today.”
Josko Sirk and his wife Loredana’s dream has grown over the years around deep-rooted values that stem from their love for their homeland. And the project has become a small, multifaceted world that never stands still: “The fact that the house is an open home—one that welcomes and hosts—is the very essence of family. The idea is to treat guests like friends who come to visit us. What you do when someone dear to you comes to visit is what we normally do.” “Mom and Dad —Tanja continues—created this place with so much love and so much sacrifice”. And at a certain point, the time came for the generational handover, which was, however, very gradual: “Dad decided at a certain point that the time had come to step aside, because it was the only way to make room for us. He’s still here, he’s present, he takes care of all the landscaping, but he doesn’t come to the restaurant. Mom still works with us and is a great balancer. She’s one of a kind. We’re much more impetuous.” Josko Sirk is a figure worth studying: “Dad has always been very talented, but also very lucky because he’s always managed to turn his hobbies into reality. What started as a passion for him always ended up becoming a concrete project”. That was the case with his wonderful vinegar, his approach to landscaping, and the houses in the woods—spaces that must be experienced before they can be described.
Philosophy and Hospitality
These homes, too, were born from the founder’s vision—back in the days when Collio was not yet seen as a tourist destination—as he imagined creating a different way to stay: “We play on the fact that we’re not a hotel, and we see hospitality as something completely different. Breakfast, for example, is a moment of calm, where you have more time to devote to guests; you can chat, offer advice, and take the time to understand and even build those relationships that ultimately become the very reason for our work. All those connections, those shared moments, and those exchanges of experiences—which are fundamental—are created.” Over the years, the homes “have evolved in completely different ways, coming to offer not just a house, but effectively the woods with a place to sleep. Il Nido, la Libreria, la Casa Relax, and the other residences nestled in the greenery stem from this philosophy”.
Today there are about twenty, and for Tanja, “that’s a lot—it’s even too many. Too many in terms of the relationship with guests that we want. That’s the limit; we can’t go beyond it. Because for us, it’s inconceivable not to know who’s staying with us.” This also explains the decision not to allow immediate bookings: “You can’t book directly, because we need to make ourselves understood. People come here seeking nature but aren’t used to it. There are insects, there are animals, there are leaves. There’s dust and tall grass. There’s no traditional room service, no bellhop. But for us, these are added values, not shortcomings.” And even for us, who are madly in love with this place, there’s no doubt that’s the case. In any case: “It’s nice to think that by opening the doors of your home, you welcome the whole world. And so you get completely different perspectives; you know what’s going on, you know what people are experiencing out there. And this gives you the chance to go out and explore with a very different open-mindedness.”
The hospitality here is truly special, even though, according to Tanja, the way people travel has changed over the years: “People don’t get around much. Because they need to slow down—so if you stay more than three days, we’ll help you figure out where you are and what to do in the area. This way, we’ve achieved two things at once: our guests are happy, and we’ve given a voice not only to this place but also to the surrounding area.” Because the Collio region has so much to discover, and as Tanja says with a smile, “Friulans are thought of a bit like bears, but when we open up, we really open up and show a lot.” The energy the Sirk family radiates also rubs off on those who work alongside them: “Our staff aren’t just employees—they’re an extension of our vision of hospitality. We believe that hosting in our own way is a form of care that will become increasingly common, not a relic of a bygone era.”
Dining
Even the cuisine at the flagship restaurant is perfectly integrated into the Sirk world. Trattoria Al Cacciatore was founded in the 1980s, when Josko and Loredana transformed the family tavern into a culinary landmark. Over the years, local tradition has been enriched by the contemporary sensibility of Alessandro Gavagna, who embodies a culinary philosophy that remains deeply rooted in the local area: “The fact that our cuisine is so deeply rooted in the territory and culture of this land doesn’t mean we aren’t looking to the future—striving to be as light and ‘clean’ as possible, and seeking to interpret the dietary needs of someone who also needs to understand where they are and why they’re there: we believe we’re very much focused on the future while remaining grounded in what we have.”
Ours was a truly satisfying dinner:Gavagna’s dishes are a clear demonstration of how a well-honed technique can be put to work to create precise, direct, comforting—yet never mundane—flavors. Take, for example, the soft-boiled egg served on a salad of green and white asparagus, with the inevitable splash of Sirk vinegar. Absolutely delicious was the wild garlic brioche stuffed with partridge and served with black garlic mayonnaise—a prime example of a thoughtful approach to game, which views wild game as a fundamental element of this region’s culinary identity.
Next up is the excellent fresh pasta stuffed with burrata and served with a sclopit soup (silene sprouts, also known as carletti). The gnocchi with goose foie gras, served with morels and wild garlic, are absolutely delicious, as is the lamb sirloin served with wild garlic preserved in oil and a potato and mint salad.
Before the succulent roe deer leg, served medium-rare in a polenta crust and accompanied by an agretti salad, the now-legendary vinegar sorbet arrives to refresh the palate. The meal ends on a sweet note, with golden ricotta bites with tarragon and elderflower mousse.
By the way, when reading the wine list—curated by Mitja Sirk—a wine enthusiast is in serious danger of being moved, especially when faced with such a unique personal touch: “Mitja experiences the world of wine and his list in the same way that I experience hospitality.” The Sirk family’s world is one worth discovering, best summed up by these final words from Tanja: “Humans aren’t rational beings; at the end of the day, they’re emotional beings. Being able to convey an extra emotion, to put the person at the center of attention—I’m increasingly convinced that even in this society, which is becoming ever faster, perhaps less and less personal, and increasingly tied to algorithms, human beings will sooner or later have to return to being the linchpin, the center of the universe.”
Address
La Subida and Trattoria del Cacciatore
Via Subida 52, 34071 Cormòns (Gorizia)
Tel: +39 048160531
