In the grand hall that gives the restaurant its name, the contemporary culinary direction is led by Michele Ricci, who trained alongside Gualtiero Marchesi at just 18 years old. Today, the chef offers a menu whose defining elements lie as much in game as in seasonal produce prepared with sensitivity. All of this takes place within a 15th-century monastery where, even today, you can stay (and fall asleep in complete tranquility) in the former cells of the monks and priors, which have been transformed into 36 charming rooms and suites. From fine dining to the spa, all the way to the tavern, get ready to step into a time machine.
There are no shortcuts to reaching the highest point of the village; only a landscape ready to reward you for the “hike” through this medieval mini-fortress, far from the reach of modern urban life. And so, you find yourself peacefully leaving your smartphone in your bag as the holm oak groves and sturdy defensive walls gradually frame the view, untilthe gate of the Monastery of Cortona swings open with the kind of serenity that belongs only to places of centuries-old contemplation. But here, your stay isn’t weighed down by antiquity: the staff’s first “embrace” (a far cry from the cold, luxury-frozen lobbies) reveals the warmth of an almost retro welcome; on the table, next to the pocket maps of the area, an “elixir” with blueberry extract and fresh mint, to be sipped after taking a moment to admire the tapestries and ornate mirrors of the grand hall on the ground floor.
Just a few steps in, and the very layout of the building will take you by the hand: amid the labyrinth of stone corridors and historic staircases that have seen the Brotherhood of San Rocco, the Dominican Monks, and the Cistercians come and go in turn,the guided tour of the house keeps the team’s memory sharp, immediately creating a “personal database” for the newest arrivals. It’s fascinating to learn that even today it’s possible to stay (and fall asleep in complete tranquility) inside the former cells of the friars and priors, which have been transformed into charming rooms and suites thanks to the conservation restoration by architect Enrico Lavagnino.
These spaces are interrupted only by the cream-colored windows, which frame a view of the Valdichiana that shifts with the light of day. A time machine untouched by technology: the marble floors, vaulted ceilings, and original fireplaces blend naturally with the comfort of resting in king-size beds featuring highly breathable mattress toppers—because a 5-star stay still calls for its share of pampering. However, it is in the former refectory or on the walls of the on-site fine-dining restaurant that history truly dons its ceremonial mantle: the frescoes from which the restaurant takes its name—reemerging in vivid colors from a thick layer of lime on the surface—seem to evoke the chivalric epic of the Battle of Montaperti in 1260. And the spa? You may never have seen anything like it, but—good to know—there’s always a first time!
From the arches of the underground spa to the porticoes of Cortona
While the hospitality reflects the personal touch of the Poli family (who manage the property as part of the Cronos Retreats group, alongside gems such as La Villa del Re and the Hotel Barocco), the descent into the monastery’s “secret” underground chambers begins just past the entrance to the Bagno di Bacco spa. Far from any sterile aesthetic, the indoor heated pool (which also features sixteen stations for hydromassage enthusiasts) occupies, along with the wooden sauna and the Turkish bath, the cavities of a monumental Roman cistern. Thus, immersing oneself in this aquatic architecture almost gives the impression of visiting the patrician baths of the classical era, while still adhering tothe policy of discretion that allows only a handful of guests at a time to access the wellness center with a dedicated “massage team.”
The experience, after all, extends beyond the complex’s grounds: " The owners,” explains the talented director Flavia Fontanesi, “wanted to offer guests little glimpses of life in Cortona, from tastings of local wines to visits to family-run jewelry shops to discover the town center’s most hidden gems”—demonstrating that the newly earned Michelin Key is not merely a badge on the door, but a bond of empathy with the place itself. During the hottest hours of the day, however, the terrace becomes the go-to retreat: built on the site of the friars’ old vegetable garden, it now features a refreshing pool and a sun deck overlooking the “boundless” horizon of the Tuscan plain.
The Scriptorium’s Mixology and Cortona’s Fluid Identity
While waiting to discover the Monastero’s two “sister” bars, a stop at the Scriptorium Bar follows the green route mapped out by bartender Claudio Stagi. The mixology here is a treatise on herbal harmony, given the recipes crafted with local ingredients and the option to choose high-quality non-alcoholic variations (in our case, a Virgin Mary with pleasantly spicy notes). The signature Il Giardino di Cortona, for its part, is a “subtle tribute” to the Negroni that brings together the alchemical triangle of the surrounding area: the aromas of Sabatini Gin (artisanally distilled with the nine botanicals of Villa Ugo), the Mediterranean aplomb of Papacello Vermouth (named after the Renaissance painter Tommaso d’Arcangelo Bernabei), and the intensity of Amaro Cortona, infused with olive leaves, juniper, thyme, and rosemary harvested from the surrounding Etruscan hills:balanced, full-bodied, and balsamic, paired with appetizers that whet the appetite for dinner.
The Cuisine at Gli Affreschi: Michele Ricci and His “Regional-Contemporary” Menu
In the grand dining room adorned with murals, the contemporary culinary direction is now in the hands of Michele Ricci. Having joined Gualtiero Marchesi’s kitchen at just eighteen, the chef honed his craft alongside masters such as Luigi Sartini and Paolo Lopriore, ultimately creating a menu whose expressive cornerstones lie as much in game as in seasonal produce handled with a delicate touch. It is precisely these fresh seasonal ingredients that often define the character of the dish through the way cuts are selected, marinated, and cooked, allowing the chef, for example, to present a charred celeriac with the substance of a main course.
The use of microgreens—and, at times, fruit—in certain key moments of the tasting follows the same approach (see how the green apple adds a kick to the chicken liver pâté, where the rustic preparation is enhanced by a burst of acidity, in harmony with the Cortona vermouth gel and the “surprise” of the crunchy, savory cantuccio).
The synergy with the two restaurant managers and sommeliers, Ottavio Bottillo and Alessandro Piliego, is evident; they are responsible for a “slalom through the wine glass” that weaves through regional and non-regional micro-wineries, always favoring small-batch wines and lesser-known winemakers. After all, the wine cellar—which has already been awarded two Wine Spectator “Glasses” and two stars from The World of Fine Wine—proudly houses over 300 labels, covering the finest wines from Cortona, Montalcino, and Bolgheri.
Returning to the menu, among our top tastings, the low-temperature roe deer, complemented by the rounded flavor of a savory zabaglione and accented by the “textural” crunch of puffed spelt with marinated turnips, takes the top spot. The pairing of coastal and farm-to-table flavors accelerates the play on contrasts with the arrival of the 40-Egg-Yolk Bottoni, which, while encasing a “bold” pheasant filling, also take a decisive turn toward briny and pungent notes thanks to the addition of sea urchin and licorice.
Bringing the lamp of homey memories to life are the chef’s hand-rolled pici, where the “cacio e pepe” sauce finds a radiant new dimension with the addition of local saffron, which heightens the vibrant aromas of the creamy sauce. Among the main courses, the “Tuscany of the Forest” dish reveals itself as bold and precise, with a lingering finish that lingers on the palate. And here, the Pigeon with its own sauce, root vegetables, and rhubarb and the Venison fillet with Jerusalem artichokes, baby spinach, and Sabatini gin reduction elevate the Mediterranean scrub to a pedestal through clean flavor extractions, allowing the vegetables to boldly duel with the gamey aftertaste.
Once the final savory scene has been filmed, the closing credits eschew cloying excesses: the red-wine-poached pear with cinnamon crumble and vanilla ice cream, the tiramisu in three textures, and the sheep’s-milk ricotta mousse with thyme-scented apples and honey crumble cleanse the palate, offering a refreshing take on the concept of dessert.
L'Osteria del Santo: A Blend of “Tuscan Flavor” and Elegance
The Monastero isn’t all about fine dining. In fact, in the same dining room reserved for breakfast, you can sit down for a casual meal with just the right touch of wholesome enjoyment. Michele Ricci continues to oversee the regional staples, lending a certain depth to the pasta dishes and classic main courses. First and foremost, the “Stracci” egg pasta with Chianina ragù and 24-month Parmigiano fondue is a real treat—which, as Orlando and Alessandro explain, “stems from the domestic tradition of reusing every last scrap. Poor families would prepare them using excess dough scraps so as not to throw anything away, making the most of the resources available.”
The chef’s touch brings out the umami of the cheese and tomatoes, without, however, overshadowing the pleasant texture of the scampi at the base. Instead, Pecorino Romano is featured in the Passatelli with Seafood and Shellfish, creating a sort of “deep-sea aging” that harmonizes the freshness of the fish with the aromas of the aged cheese.
Creamy and rich, the fagioli all’uccelletto, with a tomato sauce reduced to the perfect silky consistency; the creamy mashed potatoes are equally indulgent, and we recommend them as a side to the unmissable Fiorentina. And this time, tiramisu becomes the filling for a playful cream puff, reminding us that—after all—even in an ancient monastery, one can view the past through today’s eyes.
Address
Monastero di Cortona Hotel & SPA – Gli Affreschi Restaurant
Via del Salvatore, 6, 52044 Cortona (AR)
Tel: 0575 606233
Website: monasterodicortona.com
