Italian Abroad

Casa Italia, the shop with the checkered tablecloth that’s been open for 50 years in England: “We’re staying just the way we are”

by:
La Redazione
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Nuova copertina casa italia

In the beating heart of Liverpool, where the misty mists of the River Mersey meet the urban vibrancy of Northern England, there is a place where time seems to have happily stood still. Stepping through the doors of Casa Italia on Stanley Street is not simply about enjoying a dinner, but about immersing oneself in a ritual of hospitality that is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. An extraordinary milestone for an establishment that has managed to transform the authenticity of Italian home cooking into a transgenerational phenomenon.

In an era marked by extreme instability and rampant turnover in the restaurant industry, Casa Italia’s philosophy stands out for an almost revolutionary departure from the norm: the stability and well-being of its staff. The backbone of the restaurant is a team that has shared the same vision—and, in many cases, the same counter—for over fifteen years. This is no mere coincidence, but rather a deliberate and enlightened business strategy. “The secret lies in the dignity of work,” explained Arran Campolucci-Bordi, who now runs the restaurant, to the BBC. A philosophy inherited from a strict yet deeply human family ethic, which demands that employees be offered competitive wages and significant operational autonomy. Ensuring a rewarding and fairly compensated work environment is directly reflected in the food and the atmosphere: that sense of familiarity and impeccable consistency that customers experience with every visit is the mature fruit of a serene, devoted, and professionally fulfilled staff.

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He always said, ‘Treat all employees with the same respect, regardless of their role.’ That’s what I try to do, and I try to give them as much autonomy as possible to make their work as enjoyable as possible,” Arran continues. The origins of this culinary icon are rooted in the story of Cavaliere Mario Campolucci-Bordi. Having left Ostra Vetere for Southport at just sixteen, Mario climbed the ranks of the British hospitality industry with dedication and talent, working at the historic Prince of Wales Hotel and the Berni Inn. His encyclopedic knowledge of the restaurant industry—which earned him the title of Cavaliere from the Italian Republic for his service to the sector—led him in 1989 to take over Casa Italia, a restaurant originally founded in 1976 by Giuliano Sherini. From that moment on, the establishment became the treasure trove of a dynasty. In 2000, management passed to his son Carlo and, subsequently, in 2014, to his grandson Arran. For the latter, the restaurant was not a predestined path, but a call of affection and responsibility, taken on suddenly at just 22 years old due to his father’s illness. A baptism by fire for a young man who, nevertheless, had known those floors and those kitchens since childhood, having started at the age of twelve with the most menial tasks, such as washing pots and dishes, before learning the art of dough-making.

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While the global culinary scene chases after cold minimalism and fleeting trends, Casa Italia jealously guards its visual identity. The historic checkered tablecloths continue to adorn tables that have hosted—and continue to host—the greatest icons of world music. We’re talking about the likes of Sir Paul McCartney, Liam Gallagher, or pop queens like Kylie Minogue and Robbie Williams, all drawn to that authentic luxury that only true simplicity can evoke. There is a delightful and deliberate dichotomy in the restaurant’s success. While the decor has remained strictly faithful to the original, offering patrons the reassuring comfort of an unchanged haven, the culinary offerings and selection of ingredients have constantly evolved over the years, refining the techniques of preparation without ever betraying the home-style soul of the recipes. Pizza and fresh pasta remain the undisputed stars, served with the generosity typical of Italian Sunday lunches.

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To survive unscathed for half a century, weathering the storms of the recent pandemic and the economic fluctuations that beset the contemporary hospitality industry—where the vast majority of new establishments do not make it past their first few years—is a privilege reserved for a select few. Reaching the 50-year mark in this climate is an extraordinary achievement.

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