Pasta stuffed with “coda alla vaccinara,” artichokes cooked over Cuban charcoal, and a tiramisu made light and airy with fiordilatte ice cream: Marco Ciccotelli has created his Italian Dining concept by blending regional traditions with fresh, innovative ideas, all while staying true to the authenticity of “home-cooked memories.” Thus, VICI offers two distinct experiences: gourmet on one hand, bistro on the other.
Today, just as in the past, Via Veneto resembles a long open-air gallery of hotels where one can lose oneself all the way to the edge of Villa Borghese. Where to stay? This is where the dilemma arises: a threshold steeped in history alone is not enough to avoid the risk of a run-of-the-mill experience. But standing out among the dusty signs of La Dolce Vita is precisely one of the oldest establishments: we’re talking about theInterContinental Ambasciatori Palace, a “stone giant” that once hosted diplomats on assignment in Rome, becoming the official headquarters of the U.S. Embassy library.
Behind the project was architect Carlo Busiri Vici, who later handed the reins to Marcello Piacentini; the building was recognized in 1927 as one of the finest examples of monumental eclectic style (see the curvilinear forms that elegantly bridge the exterior and interior). It is no surprise, then, that a significant portion of the Italian and international jet set—in addition to the usual tycoons, even movie stars such as Arnold Schwarzenegger and Sean Connery— have passed through its check-in. Yet, the staff’s warm smile attests to how the sparkle of the period chandeliers or the 47-square-meter suites have contributed only in part to the complex’s fame. The enduring appeal of the five stars displayed on the front door lies, instead, in the spontaneous ability to pamper new arrivals with welcome gifts, “on-the-spot” tips on nearby museums and shops to discover, or—if needed—a post-travel glass of bubbly in the pleasant dim light of theAnita Lounge Bar. Distinguishing features? Yes, the dining: this is the property’s latest upgrade, represented by Chef Marco Ciccotelli’s unique cuisine.
The Chef and the VICI Style: Dining in a Vintage Living Room with Contemporary Dishes
To get a sense of the place, just take a look at the evening menu at VICI Ristorante, where the “star” ingredient is highlighted by clean presentation that preserves its natural essence: Marco knows when to step on the gas and when to strike a balance between creativity and comfort. Behind him lies his training with Fabio Ciervo (then chef at La Terrazza) and his subsequent role as executive chef at Palazzo Ripetta, at the helm of St. Baylon. His arrival on Via Veneto solidifies his meticulous work on “regional icons,” drawn from time to time from the signature recipes of Lazio and Abruzzo: “I was born in Chieti, so my homeland remains an important reference point,” he tells us directly in the dining room. “I want guests, when they eat, to find a foothold in a shared expressive heritage. A thick sauce, a long simmer, a spice that rises to the nostrils and anticipates the bite: for me, the factor that triggers memories goes well beyond applied theory.“ Reinforcing this concept, the restaurant features a striking ”cross-stitch" blend of wood and velvet—a visual delight that also extends to the comfort of the vintage-style lounge sofas.
The Experience at VICI Restaurant
As soon as you sit down, you’re greeted with a buffalo mozzarella emulsion that dispels any notion of a typical amuse-bouche. In just a few seconds, the light texture allows the umami of the tomato powder and the mineral counterpoint of the oregano to emerge, stimulating the salivary glands with the added kick of a dash of Modena balsamic vinegar: almost like a taste of pizza, yet ethereal and delicate. The vinegar also “revives” the concept of classic puntarelle capitoline: Marco’s version is accompanied by a mirror-smooth anchovy cream, where the tartness replaces the pungency of garlic (which is entirely absent) to give the vegetable room to breathe. It’s a short hop from the city to the coast when the Anzio humpback shrimp comes into play, served raw with its roe and embellished with shavings of black truffle, unexpectedly uniting the briny kick of the crustacean with the earthy, “subterranean” pat. The circular journey resets the palate with the refined profile of fermented cauliflower, arranged for the occasion beneath an beef carpaccio “XS”.
Still image: the market’s freshest produce takes center stage, yet is treated as a side dish. In Artichoke and Leaves, the Mammola artichoke is roasted over Cuban charcoal, giving the vegetable a bold, lingering flavor. It is surrounded by a garland of hydroponically grown plants and flowers and a herbaceous extract, creating a lively interplay between freshness and smokiness.
The “classic spoon dish,” on the other hand, carries the aromas of a chestnut and truffle soup, an olfactory souvenir to take home to enrich the memory of home-cooked meals; seemingly simple, it actually manages to blend a sense of creaminess with the depth of the forest. The next course is equally intriguing, as Marco transforms the oxtail stew alla vaccinara into the filling for a fresh pasta button with celery caramel and horseradish cream. With the first bite, the pasta shell releases that juicy eruption that takes us straight back to the authenticity of Sunday lunches, effectively combining two courses into one.
The tone shifts with the sea bass cooked on a plank to “48 degrees at the core,” with sea asparagus and Imperial Oscietra caviar, complemented by a trio of citrus fruits (lemon, orange, lime) and a vegetable broth that also carries citrus notes, all of which tone down the bold presence of Normandy butter. VICI’s desserts provide a fitting conclusion to this whirlwind of diverse flavors—see the reimagined tiramisu featuring ladyfingers soaked in coffee, fiordilatte ice cream, and mascarpone mousse, which is lighter and airier than the classic multi-layered dessert.
By day at the bistro: VICI’s convivial dining experience, breakfast, and the rest of the hotel stay
In the same spaces used for dinner, the staff prepares a lunch that embodies the spirit of bistronomy with a wholly local twist. The treat is doubled with the Pallotte cacio e ova, an Abruzzese specialty where Marco Ciccotelli carefully balances the proportions of sauce and cheese; the result is a perfectly matched duel, captivating for its underlying harmony. Those who favor signature baked goods will literally find something to their liking thanks to the basket supplied by Roscioli, or the excellent high-hydration pinsa (try the one with grilled vegetables and basil pesto).
While the Calamarata captures the sunny hues of the season with a pinch of saffron and cherry tomatoes roasted alongside the shrimp, the Veal Loin breaks the mold of predictability with Swiss chard au gratin and rosemary sauce. The menu’s nostalgic flavors are complemented by Eliana Crecan’s dining room anecdotes, which enliven the lunch with great verve and courtesy; we also appreciated the service at breakfast, featuring maritozzi filled with red berries and avocado toast topped with towering poached eggs. A detail of no small importance, alongside the attentiveness to guests, is the internal ethical choices, highlighted by the prestigious Green Key certification: forget single-use plastic and get ready to discover a range of totally eco-friendly amenities, starting with the BYREDO line of beauty products in extra-large sizes.
It’s no coincidence that a recurring theme in each of the 160 rooms is the combination of marble and wood, highlighting the natural beauty of the Made in Italy furnishings and the design elements crafted to make the spaces feel more spacious. The bonus? The reading areas in some suites, stocked with numerous volumes to entertain guests in their own “personal library” (after all, we’re in a literary setting: here, ambassadors had access to a record-breaking library!)
Charlie's: the rooftop that brings Romans together on the rooftop of *La Dolce Vita*
A trip back to *La Dolce Vita* wouldn't be complete without immersing yourself in the blockbusters of the panoramic terrace: at Charlie's, in fact, the signature drinks are named after famous films such as *Casino Royale*, *Sex and the City*, and—needless to say—Fellini's *La Dolce Vita*. The latter, both refreshing and opulent, blends Rosé Spumante with lemon, hibiscus, and a fragrant rose liqueur. The real showstopper, however, is the Vin Santo featured in the “Gladiator,” ready to welcome a Bulleit infused with tozzetto and sugar syrup: you’ll feel like you’re sipping a liquid dessert with biscuit notes, rounded but not overly so. The rest is taken care of by the DJ set in the background and a view that, on clear evenings, makes a pre-dinner drink a must.
Contact
VICI Restaurant – InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace
62 Via Vittorio Veneto,
00187, Rome, Italy
+39 06 47493
