In the heart of Biscay, amid the green hills of the Basque Country, Eneko Atxa’s cuisine transforms ingredients into a sensory experience, where the most refined techniques are put at the service of nature.
Asparagus According to Eneko Atxa: Ethics and Metamorphosis
The Azurmendi restaurant chef’s interpretation of white asparagus is a manifesto of this philosophy: an exercise in style that explores every nuance of the vegetable, alternating creamy and crunchy textures in perfect balance. The approach is based on strict adherence to seasonality and the concept of “zero waste”: every part of the asparagus is utilized, from the tenderest shoots to the dried and powdered peels, to restore the dish’s deep intensity of the harvest. It is a mindful cuisine, built on precise techniques and absolute respect, that transforms the raw ingredient into a pure experience, where sustainability finally takes center stage in the flavor.
The Recipe: White Asparagus with Different Textures
Step 1: The White Asparagus
Ingredients
- 50 white asparagus spears
- 32 g coarse salt
- 16 g sugar
- 4 liters of water
Peel the asparagus from the tip to the base and trim off the end of the stalk. Save the peels and trimmings, as they will be used in other recipes. Arrange the asparagus in two baking sheets, pour 2 liters of water into each, and add salt and sugar. Cover and bake in a combination oven at 110°C for about 22 minutes.
Once cooked, uncover the baking sheets and let cool in the refrigerator. Once cool, cut the asparagus into segments about 5 cm long and store them in their cooking liquid. Set aside the trimmings for preparing the emulsion.
Step 2: White Asparagus Powder
Ingredients
- 500 g asparagus peels and stems (from Step 1)
Dry the peels and stems in a freeze-dryer for about 12 hours. When they are completely dry, blend them until you obtain a fine, uniform powder. Sift and keep warm at about 35 °C.
Step 3: Asparagus emulsion
Ingredients
- 2 free-range eggs
- 37 g cooked asparagus trimmings
- 32.2 g asparagus powder
- 950 g sunflower oil
Combine the trimmings, powder, and eggs in the blender jar. Blend thoroughly and slowly drizzle in the oil until a mayonnaise-like consistency is achieved. Season with salt and transfer to a pastry bag; store in the refrigerator.
Fourth step: asparagus wafers
Ingredients
- 400 g water
- 60 g trisol
- 65 g isomalt
- 48 g powdered egg white
- 2 g xanthan gum
- 3 g salt
- 120 g asparagus powder
Blend all ingredients until smooth. Whip with a stand mixer for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is light and fluffy. Spread the mixture onto a silicone mat to form a thin layer (about 2 mm). Dust with asparagus powder and bake in the oven at 90 °C for about 40 minutes, until the wafer is completely dry.
Break into irregular pieces and store in airtight containers, away from moisture. Set aside any scraps.
Step 5: Wafer Powder
Ingredients
- 500 g asparagus wafers
Blend the wafer scraps until a fine powder forms. Keep warm.
Step 6: Gelatinized Curd
Ingredients
- 500 g sheep’s milk
- 10 drops vegetable rennet
- 25 g asparagus powder
- 4 sheets of gelatin (8 g)
- 2 g of agar-agar
- Salt
Combine the asparagus powder and agar-agar with the milk, then bring to a boil for one minute. Remove from heat and stir in the previously soaked gelatin. Let cool to 55 °C and add the rennet.
Pour the mixture into a container to form a layer about 1 cm thick and let cool to room temperature. Once set, cover and refrigerate for one hour. Cut into 1.5 cm cubes and store in the refrigerator.
Step 7: Asparagus milk
Ingredients
- 1230 g sheep’s milk
- 24 g asparagus powder
Mix the milk with the asparagus powder and heat to 41°C. Set aside.
Finishing and plating
Draw a line of asparagus emulsion in the center of the plate, finishing it with two small dots at the ends. Place two cubes of curd behind these dots. Cover the line with wafer powder.
Season the asparagus pieces with flaky salt and extra virgin olive oil (Picual variety), then arrange them parallel to the emulsion. Finish with two crispy wafers placed on top of the asparagus.
Serve the asparagus milk separately, heated to 41 °C and lightly curdled at the last minute with a few drops of vegetable rennet.
