Gabriele Mattiacci sees Italy from above; at Il Frantoio, he connects regions with the "golden thread" of extra virgin olive oil. Here, olive oil is transformed into a living ingredient, from mere condiment to a key component of the dish, with influences from Umbrian cuisine and travel memories.
Assisi has a whispered charm that transcends the simple idea of spirituality. Shops brimming with warmly colored ceramics, striking light and dark contrasts in historic underground spaces, clusters of tourists amazed at the endless array of rosaries and crosses to take home; beyond the strictly sacred, faith grows in the gastronomic potential of an Umbria that has never been more on-trend, setting styles from quick bites to leisurely menus. And so, religious pilgrimages give way to those of indulgence, on a path of temptation that’s all too easy to get used to, without a trace of guilt. In this modern fresco, the Fontebella Palace Hotel could rest on its laurels, but it’s chosen not to.
Picture a noble palace that brings together three different eras within the same building: at the bottom, the Roman age; as you ascend, the Medieval; and at the top, the opulent curves of the Renaissance. Here, you can dream yourself right into history, like a time machine, and you wake up to a real-life picture framed by the suite's curtains, where a dense crisscross of hills and fortifications outlines the city of St. Francis.
However, the bouquet of hotel attractions truly blooms at nightfall, inside a venue that, at first glance, is the perfect blend of a contemporary art expo and a panoramic viewpoint tailored for your camera lens. Let's talk about Il Frantoio, a reflection of the evolving Assisi. A space that defies traditional conventions, where you won't find the usual Umbrian classics displayed like lucky charms. Instead, the menu takes you on a journey across Italy, from southern sauces to the central pantry, showcasing local excellence from a fresh perspective.
The name "Il Frantoio" speaks for itself, dispelling any doubts about its focus. Olive oil (or rather, oils—blends alone account for 20 different types) plays a significant role in every dish on the menu: rather than adding simple flavors, it enhances the value of the ingredients through a continuous upward spiral. This creates a dynamic range of intensity, expertly managed by the new chef, Gabriele Mattiacci, who recently took over from former executive chef Lorenzo Cantoni. Thanks to his collaboration with Elena Angeletti, owner with a strong family background in Umbrian hospitality, Gabriele has charted his own path towards defining a personal style, ready to carve out a wide canvas for storytelling.
The restaurant
As we mentioned, art is present everywhere, coloring the dark walls with bright touches: you'll find yourself dining among different reproductions of Andy Warhol, admiring the scale of pop art's fluorescent icons. On the other hand, olive oil remains the guest of honor; you can sense it as soon as you arrive, with real olive leaves embedded into the table design, bringing a touch of naturalism that aligns with the warm welcome. Then there's the hearty bread, the result of 50 hours of spontaneous fermentation using apples and lentils, which disappears quickly—often dunked in the Dop olive oil made by the owner, Elena Angeletti, providing a dip that's irresistibly genuine. Or perhaps you'd prefer the faux peanut snack, with a completely liquid center, reminiscent of brined olives that inspire this culinary "trick."
"The goal is to use oil that's processed and refined at various levels of elaboration," explains Gabriele, born in '97, his enthusiasm evident in his words. "Not the usual addition during cooking or at the end, but the pivot around which the recipes revolve." It's like a golden thread, from condiment to main ingredient. This is proven by the title granted to Frantoio for two consecutive years, recognizing it as the Best Italian Olive Oil Restaurant 2022-2023 by the Associazione Città dell'Olio in Rome. Today, the menu intersects multiple North-South influences, revisiting ancient practices with fresh daily twists. Following closely is the wine list, featuring 400 Italian labels and several global gems, with a focus on local micro-producers. If you want to stay local, ask for a glass of Donna Elena, the family’s signature wine: among the three bottles available, we were particularly impressed with Impronta, which merges journey and identity through a blend of Sagrantino and Sangiovese on one side, Syrah and Merlot on the other. A casual pairing that complements the two menu themes— "Gabriele interprets Umbria” and “Between Past Certainties and Future Visions”—which outlines the strategic approach the chef has just embarked on.
The dishes
At first, they’re just small hints: oil nuggets in hummus with fried gnocchetti or olive cream in tacos with fresh tomato tartare. But then, the green gold gains ground with each bite. Opposites attract in the Beef Tartare, where the delicate meat is a neutral meeting point between beetroot and coffee. "Two elements that come together like husband and wife—one earthy and sweet, the other sharp. To strengthen the bond, we treat gin with our oil to extract all the aromas," explains Gabriele. So, the oil is there but doesn’t stand out: the essential that's invisible to the eye. Adding to this aromatic feast is a lovage mayo (a type of "wild celery" from the renowned La Clarice farm in Cannara), which further enhances the dish's botanical nuances.
Sweetbreads and romanesco broccoli? Yes, the chef decided to bring them into the mix. At Frantoio, however, they speak 100% Umbrian, for those who have memories of Roman cuisine, discovering an unexpected carbohydrate with them. "Essentially, I take the 'humble' ingredient of offal and fully embrace the concept of kitchen resourcefulness. Because the skill with which waste is transformed is a noble art." This led to the idea of pairing sweetbreads with polenta, another common local dish—“often served around here with sausages in tomato sauce”—made special by a crispy wafer to add crunch. It's the rustic dish that gets a makeover, finishing with deep tones from the beef stock, concentrating the beefy juices.
Meanwhile, the vegetable doesn’t play a supporting role; it stands out. You find it in the evening's most expressive creation, that undercuts the protein with an all-vegetable approach. This is the Roman-style artichoke with an emulsion made from its stem, Pecorino cheese, and fried egg yolk. No garlic or wine in the cooking process: "I want to emphasize the absolute ingredient, tickling your memory with the classic mint-parsley duo and avoiding overwhelming aromas." The star is the roasted artichoke, cooked in broth made from the leaves—"never throw them away"—and also presented as a cream with the help of Jerusalem artichoke, its "close relative." Essentially artichoke times three, with a nuanced bitterness that shifts with each bite. The soft egg yolk, breaded and fried for less than a minute, adds a silky touch.
Four varieties of tomato are captured in the Spaghetti with basil powder and tomato oil, for an energizing wave of southern Italy. "Beyond just a garnish, the basil leaf invigorates the sauce, enriched with a tomato oil butter that has pleasantly rich and herbal notes. I chose the monocultivar Ascolana by Giulio Mannelli, which connects the two key themes of the pasta by evoking the tomato leaf." The result is an Italy seen from above: extra virgin olive oil, once again, smoothing boundaries and linking regions.
A recurring theme also appears in the Saffron Risotto, topped with an intriguing Genovese "Umbrian-style": "Neapolitan ragù, for me, evokes a strong sense of warmth and family. By substituting pork with lamb, it becomes a shared heritage—different but similar in its concept."
The pigeon is a must, but it’s served with a "side dish" that's anything but—cold Swiss chard, which holds its own against the strong aftertaste of the meat. "I wanted it to recall its iron flavor while balancing the smokiness, using temperature contrast to add dynamism," explains the chef. Grilled whole on a low heat barbecue, the pigeon is then deboned to perfect the breast on the skin side only. The inside remains rare, with that bold bloodiness that’s so appealing. Alongside comes the raw filet, and finally, the sauce made from the carcasses.
Ice cream on a stick for dessert? Why not? It’s the unexpected finish after the spectacular main course. Yet here it is, a swirl of hazelnut and caramel sauce (lightened up in its composition) with a raspberry center and a matching raspberry salad. Just the right amount of tartness, with sugar in small doses. And a hint of mystery to invite us back: "We also have a 'Bread and Oil' dessert".
Contacts
Il Frantoio -Fontebella Palace Hotel
Via Fontebella, 25, 06081 Assisi PG
Phone: 075 812242
