A surprisingly personal cuisine that maintains profound elegance while focusing intensely on flavor: at Gio's, Giuseppe Ricci brings substance to hotel fine gastronomy.
The Hotel
One of the most romantic aspects of The St. Regis Venice is its secluded nature, hidden in a quiet corner, very close to Venice's pivotal locations found just a few steps away, yet also blissfully isolated. In short, a true emblem of exclusivity. The entrance is almost unnoticeable, understated, in delicate contrast with the never ostentatious luxury of the magnificent interiors that unfold once you step inside.
The third hotel of this Marriott brand in Italy after Florence and Rome, it's the result of a patient and precious restoration of what was the historic Grand Hotel Britannia, which first opened in 1895, the year of the Biennale's inauguration; noteworthy is the fact that it was the first hotel in Venice to provide electricity to all guests. Among the many famous figures from the past who stayed here, it's worth remembering Claude Monet, the great Impressionist painter who visited in the autumn of 1908.
In Philippe Piguet's book "Monet in Venice," there's a note from his wife Alice, who writes in letters to her daughter: "The views from our hotel room are the most magnificent in all of Venice, and for Monet, that's all that matters!" Thus, the Monet Suites have been dedicated to him, made even more valuable by a series of splendid contemporary paintings by Olivier Masmonteil, celebrating the mastery of the French Impressionist master in capturing Venice's unique light.
More recently, the hotel has also been known as the Hotel Europa & Regina. Following the completion of works in October 2019, the significant renovation, with design overseen by the Sagrada interior design studio from London, made room for 130 rooms and 39 suites spread across the five palaces (the oldest being Palazzo Badoer Tiepolo from the 17th century) that make up the structure, many of which overlook the Grand Canal with views of Punta della Dogana and the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute. The common areas pay homage to Carlo Scarpa, one of the greatest Venetian artists and architects; indeed, Venice and its Venetian style are pervasive, from fabrics to artisanal creations to marble floors.
Numerous collections and artworks surround the guests, including various exhibitions by contemporary artists curated by Gisela Winkelhofer, founder and owner of Edition artCo. Particularly striking is the majestic presence of the "White Chandelier" by Ai Weiwei in the Grand Salon, handcrafted and the result of a collaboration with master craftsmen from the Studio Berengo in Murano: remarkable is how it blends contemporary art with historical glassblowing techniques, made of a sphere of light enveloped by large tendrils of glass that twist into wide arches.
It goes without saying that a place of such great charm can only offer bar and dining experiences that are up to par, overseen by Facundo Gallegos, Director of Bars & Restaurants. A stop at the Arts Bar is highly recommended for a drink chosen from both classic and new creations, perhaps even better enjoyed in the elegant garden with an unparalleled view of the Grand Canal.
Gio's Restaurant
The presence of a restaurant, Gio's, is by no means taken for granted, where one goes beyond the classic international cuisine, very well executed but lacking a particular soul. It's particularly at dinner that this elegant corner transforms into a great gastronomic haven. Credit goes to a team led by executive chef Giuseppe Ricci, working closely with Sirio Mignucci, executive sous chef, and head chef Iulian Colesnic.
Ricci's journey, born in 1985, is quite complex, but his love for fine cuisine, as he told us, wasn't exactly love at first sight: "I come from Vieste, and there the main outlet is tourism, so I went to hotel management school partly out of necessity because I confess that as a teenager I didn't feel like doing much of anything. So, my parents said 'go and learn a trade.' After the first year, I immediately started doing seasonal work as an apprentice and I liked it, also because the chef I met at this hotel, the only five-star in the area, was super passionate and made me passionate too. At that point, surprising everyone including myself and my parents, I started to take a serious interest in cooking."
From there, he was selected along with three other guys for an experience abroad and found himself in London: "We served 120 covers but in a completely different way from what I had seen until then, thirty-two chefs with a French-style divided into stations. I was impressed and fell in love with it, it wasn't just written in books, it was a dream." He stayed at Galvin for three and a half years, alongside a sous chef who had worked with Gualtiero Marchesi, Alain Ducasse, and Robuchon, from whom he learned a lot about products. Through him, he went to the Dorchester as a sous chef and there, where he would stay for another four years, he began to understand what his cuisine would be like: "The dishes were aesthetically beautiful, but the taste didn't align with my expectations, yet the techniques were there, as well as the incredibly high-quality products. I would have put less emphasis on beauty and more on substance."
At the end of his experience, he turned down an offer at Le Louis XV to return to Italy: "I wanted to go back to cooking my way." He went to Santini at Pescatore, but even there his expectations were dashed on a cuisine of excellent raw materials but also of dishes too 'institutional' for his taste. A brief experience at Acanto in Milan and then it was time for Venice, at Bauer, with Giovanni Ciresa: "One of the people who left the biggest impact on me, strong and with a solid team." There he received the proposal from Danieli, where he stayed for four years before settling at St Regis. His is a surprisingly personal cuisine, able to maintain profound elegance while also being decidedly focused on the intensity of flavors.
Also thanks to a great determination that sees him very active in selecting suppliers without compromise: "Venice and its surroundings are rich in products, you have to work very hard to find the right ones but in this way you can convey the taste to the guests. You can't expect to eat the same things you eat elsewhere because people expect something that is only found here, in addition to the classic Italian dishes, of course. And then my idea is to attract, along with tourists, local customers, because if they understand that the substance is there, they come back, besides seeing a restaurant in a hotel in a different light." Giuseppe Ricci also believes in the importance of maintaining a perfectly organized kitchen capable of delivering appropriate dishes regardless of the context: "There should be no difference perceived, for example, eating at the bar at a lower level compared to the restaurant. And it should be the same for room service."
The dishes
Relying on the talent of Miriam Jessica Quartesan, wine manager capable of intelligently pairing glasses from a very well-structured wine list, a qualitatively significant journey begins, starting with a sea bass carpaccio marinated in vinegar with a crispy pad. From the fish, it is immediately clear how much attention is paid to the ingredient, which comes from a long courted fisherman: an incredible texture, perfect serving temperature, the right acidity, and what transforms from a seemingly simple dish into an extremely refined course.
The rustic pasta buttons filled with Vicenza-style salt cod, served with razor clams and lovage, are notable: flawless taste combinations for mouthfuls of sharp elegant power. The octopus yakitori with tomatoes, capers, and Taggiasca olive crumble is also very good and perfectly cooked.
The Paduan guinea fowl terrine with fried castraure (artichoke sprouts) is a small masterpiece in which the bird's meat has a soft texture and intense flavor.
Pastry chef Leonardo Caliari is very skilled, finishing with two technically perfect and equally delicious desserts: brioche with gin, tonic water foam, bergamot and helichrysum sorbet, a representation of the gin and tonic in a sweet version. The 'trilogy' of chocolates with pine nut granola and grapefruit sorbet is also excellent, closing on a refreshing note. A new, beautiful, Venetian destination.
Contacts
The St Regist Venice- Gio's
P.za San Marco, 2159, 30124 Venice VE
Phone: +39 041-2400001
